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SRAM GX, 1 x 11, 32T and 10-42T cassette.
With the deep profile on the teeth of the front chainring, could I get away without changing that one and just change the chain and cassette? There's no noticeable wear on the front one....
TIA
Can anyone help with this please, I'd really like to order some bits........
TIA
You'll probably be ok with just cassette and chain is no major wear on chain ring .
Whats the wear on the chain?
Swap that first if it's not going to work do the cassette too, if not run the chain and cassette until it all dies
The chain doesn't look too bad yet, nor does the cassette; but this is the original stuff on the bike, so I haven't changed anything yet. In the past on 3 x 9 setups I've done the whole lot at once (chainrings, chain and cassette). But on a single ring setup, the teeth appear to be a completely different, much more pointy shape, so they don't "look" nearly as worn - I wondered whether anyone else had any experience of this. The front seems to still be ludicrously expensive too (as does the cassette). C'est la vie......
. The front seems to still be ludicrously expensive too (as does the cassette). C’est la vie……
Plenty of aftermarket chainrings at better prices. As for the casette again it lasts really well
Get a chain checker rather than going by eye, I think I was about 4:1 on chains to cassette's
The bottom line is that you won’t know for sure until you ride if changing cassette and chain alone was all you needed.
That said, I generally only change chainrings when visibly worn and new chain won’t mesh properly.
I reckon you’ll probably be fine, but after big drivetrain work the next ride or two should always be abortable I think.
Also, if this is the GX cassette you’re probably fine simply changing chain. That thing is near indestructible.
Excellent, thanks for all this help, I'll measure the chain with a view to changing that first. Yes, it's the GX cassette.
No worries, I reckon chain only will be fine unless you’ve really done a number on it and then cassette wear would be visually obvious.
Incidentally, the ring teeth look so different for two reasons. Firstly, shift rings are compromised for chain mesh and therefore dropping as they have to be designed to lose the chain when tapped sideways so single rings always have deeper teeth, and secondly the ‘narrow-wide’ profile which also assists in retention.
You've also got narrow-wide on the derailleur, and a common gotcha fit the unwary is that it is possible to put a new chain on incorrectly so that it will seem your entire drivetrain is toast. When refitting, take care that the ‘wide’ teeth on the derailleur and ring match the outer plate links on the chain.
>>>>You’ve also got narrow-wide on the derailleur, and a common gotcha fit the unwary is that it is possible to put a new chain on incorrectly so that it will seem your entire drivetrain is toast. When refitting, take care that the ‘wide’ teeth on the derailleur and ring match the outer plate links on the chain.<<<<<
Really? You've lost me there, surely the chain has identical sized links along its length, how can you fit it wrongly? Sorry if I'm being dense!
Wide across the chain, not along. So outer plates to wide teeth, inner plates to narrow teeth.
Ah, got you! Yes, I hadn't thought of that but it makes perfect sense , yes. Thanks!