Moving from 3x9 to ...
 

  You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more

[Closed] Moving from 3x9 to 2x10...

8 Posts
8 Users
0 Reactions
99 Views
Posts: 161
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Planning to refresh the drivetrain on my Turner by moving over to a SLX 2x10 set-up, but I have a few questions:
-38/24 and 11-36 seems to give the right spread of gears (26" wheels)- what do you use?
-Will my old 3-speed front mech work (SRAM X7)?
-Best chain to use? All my 9-speed stuff is SRAM, but not keen on the single-use 10-speed links (SRAM).
-Best place to save a bit of weight? Maybe up-spec the cassette?

Thanks!


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 11:28 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Have you considered 1x10? If you add a 42t rear cog and use a 32t front chainring you can get very close to the range of a 2x10. There is a calculator on Sheldon Brown's site to compare ratios.

I've just done this and I love the fact that it's one smooth progression between gears and there's never that clunky moment of shifting into the granny ring / back to the larger ring. It also means a little weight loss, as no mech, shiter and one less ring.

Using a narrow wide chainring at the front also seems to keep the chain on very well when combined with a clutch mech.

My setup consisted of:
Raceface 32t chainring narrow wide
Xt 11-36 cassette plus oneup 42t
Xt shadow mech

Good luck!


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 11:38 am
Posts: 2042
Full Member
 

I'd echo the above.

My bike went from 3 x 9 to exactly the gear spread you are looking at with 2 x 10.

Was better but stil had the occasional chain drop at the front.

When the chain rings wore out I made the decision to go to 1 x 10 with a 32T chainring and Hope 40T on the back of an XT cassette.

Cost a reasonable amount as I needed a new clutch mech as well, but all in all if I knew about 1 x 10 at the time I changed from 3x9 I'd have missed 2x10 out completely.

Also gone from 3x9 to 1 x 10 on n+1 and that too is much better with no faff.

Not been wanting for gears on either bike unless a long tarmac ride is required. (which isn't in my riding)


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 11:43 am
 J-R
Posts: 1179
Full Member
 

+1 for the above: 1 x 10 is the way to go. Loose that front grannie and you may the bike lighter and less to go wrong.

I am currently running bikes with 1 x 10 and a 2 x 10, and so often I forget to even use the fron shifter on the 2 x 10 at all.


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 12:04 pm
Posts: 5559
Free Member
 

1 x 10 if hilly
2 x 10 if mountains


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 12:06 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Having never tried 1x10 are there any issues with chain stretch across the cassette?

I'm still using 2x9 and always try to keep the chain straight-ish


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 12:11 pm
Posts: 11292
Full Member
 

Yes
Yes
I went for a 105 10-spd chain as crc were doing them for a tenner.
Cassette will save some weight but cost more...go with the standard stuff just now and get acquainted with the new stuff then look at spending some cash on lightening it up. Mechs will also save weight but may not offer any real performance improvement.


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 12:16 pm
Posts: 161
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks folks- lots of options to explore. Anyone on KMC 10-spd chains?


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 1:01 pm
Posts: 10942
Free Member
 

1x10 is the current trend, to really get the whole range it seems you need to add a 40\42t sprocket. I debated 1x10 or 2x10 recently and am opting for 24/36 with 11/34 on a 650b, on a previous 26" I ran 24/36 with 11/32. Personally i'd find a 24x36 gear uber twiddly on 26".

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/real-world-experiences-of-using-1x10-in-hilly-areas

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/double-chainsets-real-world-experience-in-hilly-areas


 
Posted : 03/01/2015 1:24 pm

6 DAYS LEFT
We are currently at 95% of our target!