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About a 3 or 4 mill extra (roughly) clearance on drive side, both at chain stay and seat stay.
Suppose it could be a frame issue but unlikely? Boost frames/ hubs have that extra 6mm divided on both sides dont they, so nothing to do with that.
I built the frame up with some "new" take off wheels. Hope Boost hub with Alexrims Volar rims.
Wheel all seems parallel in frame which is leading me to wonder about the wheel dish?
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Try putting the wheel in the wrong way around.
if the gap stays the same as in the picture its the frame, if it swaps sides its the wheel.
Put it in with the cassette on the left, that will tell you if it's the wheel or the frame.
Or try a 2nd wheel.
You guys are GENIUSES! Would never have thought of that.
Swapped wheel around.... gap moved to other side of frame. 🙂
About 3mm difference in gap. So in reality would only need redishing 1.5mm? Is my logic correct?
Im inclined to just leave it till it needs new nipples etc (alloy nips)and then get it rebuilt correctly??
Huge thanks again!!
You could retension that pretty easily.
Slacken the non drive side by 1/4 turn per spoke, then tighten the drive side by 1/4 turn per spoke.
Check where its at, then make (very small) adjustments as necessary.
Or a shop could do it for £15-20.
If you're measuring the gap between tyre and frame be sure to double check with the tyre off before doing anything else, just to exclude it being an unevenly seated (or constructed!) tyre
I had a brand new wheel ... that was about 1cm out of dished on one half of the rim...
[quote="martymac"]Slacken the non drive side by 1/4 turn per spoke, then tighten the drive side by 1/4 turn per spoke.
Check where its at, then make (very small) adjustments as necessary.
which fixed it in about 10 minutes....
You could ignore it, that will fix it in even less time 🙂
does it have a tyre on?
Not sure about boost wheels but on non-boost where the drive side and nds spokes are at different tension a tight tyre can change the dish by compressing the rim.
Thanks for further help guys.
Tyre on but measured against the actual rim. So not a wobbly tyre causing it.
Though if tyre can "deflect" the rim as someone said ,I will check that when I change to a Minion SS at the back soon.
Tempted to do as martymac said and get the spoke tool out...
Trouble is I'm a bit more "precious" about wheels than I used to be. Don't trust myself as much ticketing with them as I used to do all the time with rim brake rims back in the day. 🙁
I'm with Trimix, ignore it and ride it
Pickle.... You may have a point!
Will put it on my to do list for a while. 😉
if you ride it then inspect inside the rear triangle regularly as if it's not full tensioned up (hence the tyre causing it to deflect) then it could easily deform under cornering and cause the tyre an mud and stones to rub on your frame and quickly wear it through.
Cheers Andy, good point.
No marks so far but will keep an eye on it until sorted.
Will probably take it to an lbs... When I find one that hasn't closed down and it's one I trust...
No disrespect meant to any lbs owners/employers on here. It's just I've had a bad experience years back with one of the few remaining shops round here.
The really good ones have all gone... 🙁
Where are you based? I'm sure somebody will recommend a decent LBS
Hiya,
Medway towns in Kent.
Anyone recommend anywhere in the area?
Thanks guys!
Oh come on! Its a quarter turn for each spoke. You cant really cock it up, as long as you undo / tighten the correct spokes.
I tend to undo all the spokes from one side and then tighten the spokes form the other side.
If you start / finish at the valve hole and are left alone for 10 minutes you'll be fine.