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Hello! I just ordered this https://www.merlincycles.com/fox-36-float-grip-performance-forks-275-244684.html
It will replace an aging Lyric, which was my 10th ROCKSHOX in 28 years (I started young).
So first Fox and a few questions:
- I note that the drop out has a bolt. Does it need a particular torque value?
- I normally use the RS app for pressure and rebound. Is there a Fox equivalent and if not, do I just set at 25% sag?
- Anything else that requires adjusting?
- I'll need to cut the steerer but don't want too much sticking our of the head tube. What's a reasonable length for resale? Is 185mm OK?
- I need to swap the Torque Caps on my Hunt wheels. Do they just pop out?
- Anything else I should know?
Cheers
Frog
Yes
Yes - serial number into the fox site
Maybe
Yes
Yes
No
The bolt on the drop out is for the floating axle. Do up the axle and then do up the bolt. It does have a torque setting, but it’s not vital, just make sure it’s tight. Loosen it again to remove the axle.
Fox forks, set sag, then set rebound based on the pressure that you’ve arrived at, you can get it at their website. Add tokens if you’re blowing through the travel too much, take them out if you’re not using all your travel.
Don’t know about torque caps.
Not sure about steerer length, think I’ve got 30mm of spacers under my stem, with a head tube length of 125mmm.
Steerer length is going to be relative to the bike size, 185mm would be too short for me on a large.
The bolt on the drop out is for the floating axle. Do up the axle and then do up the bolt. It does have a torque setting, but it’s not vital, just make sure it’s tight. Loosen it again to remove the axle.
I'd be careful about overtightening - had issues with some old Specialized/Suntour forks that had a pinch bolt. I'm sure things have come a long way since then, but...
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Also, it's set and forget unless you change to a different wheel
Tighten the pinch bolt on the drive side dropout to 5.1 Nm (45 in-lb) torque.
IMPORTANT: You will only need to tighten the pinch bolt during your first wheel installation. After tightening the pinch bolt, you may remove the QR axle and replace it without loosening or retightening the pinch bolt. If you are changing wheels or hubs, it is likely that the pinch bolt will need to be adjusted by following these installation instructions starting at step 1.
Iirc the ebike 36's have 34 internals as they had thicker stanchions to cope with the extra stresses. So if you wanted to change air springs then it would need one for a 34.
Ooh..hunt torque caps... I could do with some of them....
DrP
– I note that the drop out has a bolt. Does it need a particular torque value?
Not bothered myself. And you only have to set this once when you first use a new wheel in the fork. After that it's fit and forget and you just use the QR as normal. Note that it isn't a pinch bolt that helps hold the axle in like the photo above (I broke a Manitou dropout in the same way back in the day), it just stops the floating collar from shifting once it's in the right position. The QR holds the wheel in. You're not going to break anything.
– I normally use the RS app for pressure and rebound. Is there a Fox equivalent and if not, do I just set at 25% sag?
Set sag. Go.
– Anything else that requires adjusting?
Turn the adjuster on the top fully anti-clockwise. Leave it there. Easiest damper to use ever. If a heavier rider you might turn it a few click in once you're sure the pressure and rebound is correct, but otherwise open works well on everything.
Play with the rebound knob out on the trail.
– I need to swap the Torque Caps on my Hunt wheels. Do they just pop out?
My Hunt torque caps fell out every time I took the wheels out, before I switched away from the RS forks.
Turn the adjuster on the top fully anti-clockwise. Leave it there. Easiest damper to use ever. If a heavier rider you might turn it a few click in once you’re sure the pressure and rebound is correct, but otherwise open works well on everything.
Agreed
My 38's have HSC and LSC. Why you'd want to make them less compliant (unless they are diving) is beyond me
@dc1988 - there's e-tuned and e-optimised 36's. Those Merlin forks are the e-tuned model which uses the same standard 36 chassis as normal forks, but has different damper and air spring characteristics to suit e-bikes. The e-optimised models do indeed have a thicker brace and stanchions.
Bloomin ebikes confusing everything!
I didn't bother buying e-tuned 38's - Rob at EMTB Forums said he preferred the standard tune
Thank you very much everyone. Perhaps not such a good move buying an e optimised fork to go on a Meta Hardtail?
I bought on price really but perhaps I should have bought the CRC version at around £350 after 10% discount? I couldn't understand the difference but perhaps the CRC ones are better value actually. Quite confused about the difference.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/fox-suspension-36-float-performance-boost-fork-2023?color=black&wheelSizeTravel=27.5%22+%7C+160mm+Travel&axleSpacingOffset=15mm+x+110mm+Axle+%28Boost%29+%7C+44mm+Offset
Kramer
The bolt on the drop out is for the floating axle. Do up the axle and then do up the bolt
Tighten axle, bounce the forks a few times, then do up the pibch bolt.
You're right thanks. Also, it's just e tuned rather than e optimised so normal 36 internals.
Forks arrived, great service from Merlin of course.
Axle to Crown only seems to be 4mm down despite going from 170mm (Lyric) to 160mm but not a big deal, perhaps they'll settle.
The gloss finish is nice and makes a change from the mat RS paint.
Weight is 2178g uncut vs 1995g for the RS cut. Not shocking considering.
Will fit and take pic when I have applied the decals as they came without as expected.
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