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What's the model of choice these days?
I've got BB7s on my crosser and they've been ok but I'm building up an off road commuter and wondered if there was anything better out there now? Cheers.
I've got TRP Spyres on my Kona & still haven't changed the pads in nearly 2 years.
I have trp spyres and they also have been fine. Iirc when I looked into it both pads move when the cable is pulled. In practice I can't say it makes too much of a difference. I've also bb7s on a fat bike and haven't had a problem with those either.
I've just built up a Surly Straggler and used TRP Spyres, been quite impressed with them really. Seem a lot easier to set up and get working well than the BB7s I have on other bikes. It makes a bit more sense to me that both pads squeeze the disc rather than one pad pushing the disc against the other pad, as per BB7s.
I haven't been super impressed with the pad wear but they are stock pads and I can replace them with what I want, so no big issue.
Another TRP Spyre user here - plenty powerful enough and no problems in the 3 years I've had them on my RAG+
You may find some non-compressible outers will transform your BB7s, they did mine. This stuff
I think it might be Spyres on my wife's crosser and they seem pretty good so I'll maybe give them a go.
Fitted some of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/233583559279?chn=ps&var=533262430395&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=533262430395_233583559279&targetid=909953938039&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046587&campaignid=10199634949&mkgroupid=101938390717&rlsatarget=pla-909953938039&abcId=1145987&merchantid=231863261&gclid=CjwKCAjw1K75BRAEEiwAd41h1L5zQly2aY9au7SmLGKu2JnV59R6BgmKTkNvItG4LupTbWsRedGp5RoCybYQAvD_BwE Power is good (better than BB7's I've had previously), feel is good, setup was easy. Just check your rear cable stop in case it introduces a sharp angle.
My TRP spyres were pretty shit, but may have been an early version or something as only one side of the caliper moved, other side was stationary.
The cheap shimano hydraulic numbers on my Go Outdoors bike, at a third of the price are light years better.
You may find some non-compressible outers will transform your BB7s, they did mine.
Already done that, massive difference!
I have been using BB5 (long pull) with tektro R520 levers for a couple of years, before that BB5 short pull with road levers... They're gash. They work but they're a faff to live with requiring regular adjustment and being a bit underwhelming performance wise once you've used a hydraulic disc brake of any sort. Don't get Avid cable discs if you can help it.
I've just bought a pair of used Gevenalle/retroshift hydraulics (TRP Hylex with a thumbie bolted on) and I am very excited to get the things fitted...
I have the TRP Hyd/Rd.
Hydraulic calipers activate by cable. They've been absolutely flawless with loads of power and easy to adjust.
Are there reasonably priced road hydraulics with a brake only lever? I'm running an Alfine with bar end shifter so combined shift/brake levers don't make much sense.
Juin tech cable / hydros on one cx bike and wife's commuter - work well and no issues with them.
Didn’t get on with Spyres, although I like them more in principle Having better luck on BB7s since I changed my regular gravel setup to flat bars/MTB. I live in the hills, am a fat biffer and they stop me anywhere. I use Avid flak jacket outers. Overall of course not as powerful as the hydros on my hardtail. But they work.
As an old-school comparison - my retro touring bike has old fashioned Acera cantilevers and I can lock them up from the drops but not from the hoods. They feel nicer in use though. In the dry 😉
TRP Spyres on my tandem...pretty impressive when you consider the energy dissipated when slowing the 2 of us plus camping gear down from 80kph! Barely needed adjusting in 1500km.
Seems my reply earlier didn't post...
Giant Conduct mechanical-hydraulic system gets reasonable reports.
Or with the bar end shifters, just use the braking of the ~£175 (less any reward point discount) of https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-rs505-hydraulic-disc-brake-set-stis-rs505-flat-mount-calipers-11-speed-89846.html
I’ve used both Spyres and BB7s for many years, both absolutely fine, would happily buy either of them again.
I have Spyres on my SS CX bike - they're easy to set up and nice and smooth - not that powerful though, and by that I reckon the Ultegra rim brakes on my road bike are way better
my retro touring bike has old fashioned
AceraAltus cantilevers
Discs or cantis: Brake less often, save rubber and metal!
BB7s, after similar advice I put Ashima (I think) braided outers especially on the rear, was a great difference - removed a lot of the fade that was getting before.
Juin R1s have been loads better for me than Spyres or BB7s.
Can confirm that TRP Hyd/Rd are great. Admittedly not exactly what you asked for, but nearly.
hmm, I switched to the TRP compressionless housing, and I didn't think it made that much difference over the normal Clarks housing that I'd been running before. Anyone tried the TRP stuff against anything else?
Are there reasonably priced road hydraulics with a brake only lever? I’m running an Alfine with bar end shifter so combined shift/brake levers don’t make much sense.
Reasonably priced?
Depends on your definition:
This is the shiney new version of what I described above I'm pretty sure an Alfine bar-end lever could be made to play with them as they sell a hylex alfine conversion separately:
So £400 quid (and currently out of stock), I paid £90 and I'll need to bleed them, give them a fresh set of pads and a good clean, but I'm still circa £275 up on a new pair...
You could buy some Hylex and carry on using your Bar-end shifter, that still a good couple of hundred quid for non-gear shifty hydraulic drop-bar brakes...
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/trp-hylex-rs-brake/rp-prod191984
Got TRP spyres on my Diverge, they are acceptable,the stock pads were shit but once changed they work ok.
BB7s are still really good.
But, my new road bike came with hy/rds on and they are fantastic. If you didn't tell people it was cable-on-hydro, they wouldn't guess.
I couldn't get on with hyrds. The cable pull required is enormous.
Giant Conduct mechanical-hydraulic system gets reasonable reports.
I have these on my Arkose. Been very happy with them. Much more powerful in all conditions than the mechanical system the bike came with.
Aye Spyres seem to be the number 1 choice. I have them on 3 bikes. I've also used BB7's, BB5's, Lyra's and have Shim hydros on another groad bike. IME, Spyres are the best of the mechanical discs I've tried - once you use sintered/semi sintered pads. The OE pads are not great particularly before bedding in...
Again IME, the main difference between my Shim hydros and my Spyres is lever feel. The hydros have a much firmer lever with less free travel before engagement. In normal braking there's not much in it between them. On the limit, the hydros take a little less effort.
I'd have no hesitation in using Spyres again. I would not consider buying new Juin Tech or Hy Rd's as there's no reason to use these over full hydro these days.
I would not consider buying new Juin Tech or Hy Rd’s as there’s no reason to use these over full hydro these days.
£150 for a set compared with what? £400 for the cheapest full hydro levers+calipers? Plus probably having to upgrade to 11 speed.
Theres a new Juin Tech GT-F 4 piston flat mount brake out about £200 for ultimate cable actuated braking.
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Little cheaper direct from china (but with what warranty ?)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000423731335.html
Review:
https://youtu.be/UGGb8TZTJNU
Juin Tech R1s here, couldn't believe the difference from the BB7s which I thought was good. The only issue I do have is fork judder one the front, so need to look at the pads and discs.
So all the faff of cable and all the faff of hydro in one neat package... Niiiiice... The only reason I can see to use hybrid cable/hydro is if you're using bar ends or some such. There's no other compelling reason. Cost? I bought 675/785's from Taiwan for £200. How's thar dearer than hybrids?
The only reason I can see to use hybrid cable/hydro is if you’re using bar ends or some such
Or if you’re using 9 speed and don’t want to spunk out for new gears, wheels etc. They were much cheaper than a set of hydros and ten speed post mount is relatively expensive. Re faff I’ve not touched my juin tech other than pad replacement and occasional cable adjustment in 30 months. They’re not quite as good as full hydro but miles better than cable they replaced.
I have the TRP Hyd/Rd.
Hydraulic calipers activate by cable. They’ve been absolutely flawless with loads of power and easy to adjust.
Don’t get Avid cable discs if you can help it.
No problem with Avid BB7's on both our tandems - albeit flat bars not drops.
I had them for a short while (sold the bike, brakes were fine). They were great once the stock pads had been binned and swapped to some uberbike compressionless outer.
Once set up they weren't a million miles off the SRAM hydraulics on my other bike.
As others have said, fitting good cables and decent pads makes a world of difference with BB7s and Spyres. Used both and they have been great, but you do need to keep an eye on them if you use them all year round on something like a commuter. They are not fit and forget.
@Spin TRP make some brake only road hydros;
I have these TRP Hylex's on my Arkose single speed (now converted to 1x11 with a bar end shifter). Fab brakes, really good lever and hood shapes.
Also have Spyres on my CX/winter bike; were rubbish until I changed to compressionless outers - night and day difference to performance. Was a bit of a chump really as ran them for around 3 years before upgrading the outer!
From my experience (on a mix of drop bar bikes and MTB)...
BB7s good.
Spyres better.
Rever MTN1s even better.
(very similar to Spyres, but take bigger pads, and slightly better finish/tolerances)
Paul's Klamper bloody amazing.
Mechanical numbers are fine. Tried BB7, Promax Render and TRP Spyre. The last one I would grade the best. Especially with Swiss Stop green pads and Sram Force stiff levers.
However after trying hydraulics finding all mechanical stoppers merely adequate at best xD
Cheers!
I.
I’ve had Tektro Mira, some Clarke’s things from Halfords, HyRds and full hydros
IMO the only difference between the HyRd and the 2 cable ones was not having to adjust them all the time, power was fine on all of them, so if I was only using once a week or less I’d be happy enough with the cheap ones. Clarke’s ones were only about £20 each, but I was commuting and the adjustment during the winter was a ball ache.
I think if I was building a gravel bike now I’d go for cables just because I worry about the cost of a hydraulic brake failure.
I just bought a new bike with the Giant Conduct SL hydraulic master cylinder thingy. It works great, is very powerful, and is cable-actuated - so uses 'normal' (i.e. non-hydraulic levers.
However, I have an entire SRAM groupset sitting spare in my shed, and am much more a SRAM than a Shimano bod. So I'll be stripping the bike and selling the bits off in case anyone's interested in?
£100 for the Giant Conduct SL cable-actuated master cylinder, plus stem (100mm), plus hydraulic lines and Flat Mount brake calipers, pads, and 140mm rotors. Everything is just 1 ride old. Can take pics.