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Yes.
I just cut/filed to make it square again. Works fine.
Yeah - file it down to make square edges and try not to be so ham-fisted with it in future.
Yeah happened to me. Used a dremel to get the edge straight again, and remember you don't need to tighten it up very tight at all, finger tight is all you need.
I can also recommend the replacements for that model, the Maxle Stealth (not QR) or Ultimate (QR but doesn't have this problem).
As above really, though I'm a Maxle Stealth convert now. I always have an Alien II on me or the bike so being allen key release isn't a problem for me.
I can see that it wouldn't suite everyone though.
TBH that only happens if you don't use it correctly- the lever needs to be well seated into the slot. It's very easy to get wrong though so I'd still call that bad design but, if you're careful, it doesn't happen. You can cut the edges square again with a hacksaw or file.
The Maxle Ultimate which is one of the newer replacements is worse- it doesn't wear like this, it just snaps off in your hand. The Stealth is the best option imo- except racing, when do you ever want to remove a front wheel when you don't have an allen key handy? QR bolt-throughs are weird.
I'm still looking for a 142x12 stealth after mine had chewed up like this, not having much lucking finding them for sale though.
Scotroutes +1
Yes, its happened to everyone thats ever owned one. File it down or buy the mk11 version, much better design.
Yep happened to me on Sunday, not yet managed to remove the wheel, will be going for a stealth one shortly I think.
plus it saves grams!!
Yes, its happened to everyone that's ever owned one
Not quite. Agree it's not a great design, but a bit of common sense ie make sure the 2 faces are in proper contact and it doesn't cause an issue.
Happened to me too. I guess thats why they upgraded the design.
Another +1 for scotroutes.
Yes, its happened to everyone that's ever owned one.
The one on the rear of my 5 is 6 years old and still going strong with virtually no marks to the square edges. Did replace it with an Ultimate but that snapped in a matter of weeks so the original went back on. I think the axle itself is starting to wear though, despite greasing it regularly, so a Stealth or another original one one seems the best option when it comes to getting a new one.
Yeah it's a rubbish design, easy enough to cut and file flat again though.
Thanks for all the feedback, at least it's not just mine that's made of cheese! Point taken though [b]Scotroutes[/b] I will be more careful in future, file mine down for now and look out for a Stealth.
The one on the rear of my 5 is 6 years old and still going strong with virtually no marks to the square edges. Did replace it with an Ultimate but that snapped in a matter of weeks so the original went back on.
yeah, same here, the older style maxle is much more robust
oldtalent - MemberI'm still looking for a 142x12 stealth after mine had chewed up like this, not having much lucking finding them for sale though.
There's some compatible options- you just need to make sure the thread and length are right. I broke the maxle ultimate in my Trailfox but someone on here was kind enough to give me a Banshee bolt-in maxle that fitted perfectly frinstance
http://mtzoom.com/skewers/Any good?
They would do, but I would rather buy a rockshox original part if it existed. But as my searches for a stealth 142x12 maxle yield no results then perhaps no such part is produced by rockshox.
Never happened to me.
Mine had a bizarre habit of undoing itself randomly.
And that was after doing it up tight enough to damage it the same way.
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After hitting close to 40mph on a road in to Ballater.....
The Ultimate is much betterer
Oldtalent SRAM do make what you're after - plenty online Amazon have them £22.99 plus shipping. You just need to know what length you need.
SRAM part no is 00.4318.005.027 for the 174mm version - there are a few different lengths listed.
YOurguitarheron -= the maxle only needs to be finger tight - its flipping the lever that expands the end to make it stay in place. should be an allen head to tighten up to get the lever flip to lock. ie you tighten that until flipping the lever feels like a well adjusted QR
As above, no need to get it silly tight, as long as the lever action is firm when you flip it in place.
[quote=tjagain ]YOurguitarheron -= the maxle only needs to be finger tight - its flipping the lever that expands the end to make it stay in place. should be an allen head to tighten up to get the lever flip to lock. ie you tighten that until flipping the lever feels like a well adjusted QR
I know all that stuff and have adjusted the allen head bitty.
Still tries to kill me every so often.
Have a different bike now though

