[Closed] Mavic hubs/sprint rims, tubular tyres... worth anything?

What rims are they? How many spokes?

Can't make out the name of the rim manufacturer from the pic, ap... but hubs are Mavic and they're 32 spoke.

if the hubs are mavics? i guess block not freehub??? do the rims have a red diamond on them? the old mavic logo was gold text on red i seem to remember.

GEL280's and 330's are light, a bit flexy though. You may find someone interested, may be l'eroica compliant so should be able to shift them?????

Ta guys!

Seller's best image of wheels...

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GP4CD rims? Possibly GL330?

The other rim shot:

[img] [/img]

EDIT: cheers aP... I wish that meant something to me!

I'm guessing it would be totally impractical to use these on a regular basis? Fixing a puncture on a tubular is a total nightmare, no?

Anyone on here with experience of tubular tyre repairs?

I sense a big purchase mistake on the horizon. 😉

That's in lovely nick, shame to use it as a hack!
It's not difficult to change a flat tub, I've used them on a winter trainer (same rims as those, which look like gp4s), time wise maybe even quicker than changing a tube, but if you are asking if they can be easily repaired then that is fiddly and not something I've bothered with.

I do prefer the proper machined brake track of a modern clincher rim however. You can see how the rims in the pics have high spots at every spoke hole.

Repairs...most consider it a PITA and send them off, gluing etc is a skill in itself.

I think those are 36H and so unlikely to be the lightweight GEL280s/330s, unlikely they're worth anything.

RS500 wheels are what £130 odd? You may need a cassette if that's a freewheel.

Note also - no STI, no mudguard mounts.

Look like GP4s to me - not really worth anything as they're not retro enough to be sought after and they were a very mid-range rim.

I'd just replace the rims with a good clincher - something like CXP22s. Tubs would be daft for winter training, you want a good, grippy and puncture-resistant clincher.

I use tubular wheels in the summer and just take the tufo extreme sealant with me, hasn't failed to fix a puncture yet. You need removable valve cores though so you can get it in.

Cheers guys. I guessed it would be a PITA. Lovely bike though! Still tempted... 😉

tufo extreme sealant

anc, this sounds interesting. How does it work? And how time consuming is it?

Ta
camo

Wiggle sell it u only stick it in once u puncture. its a wee container of sealant with a nozzle which fits in your valve once the core is removed. Half the container seems to sort it and I find it quicker than swapping a tube on clinchers. Think vittorra also do one called pit stop which works on their tubs as they don't have removable cores not used that one though.

I'd just replace the rims with a good clincher - something like CXP22s. Tubs would be daft for winter training, you want a good, grippy and puncture-resistant clincher.

This sounds like a damn good idea.

Apologies for the endless questions, but what kind of money are we talking to rebuild these wheels for good clinchers?

Those are Mavic GL330 stickers for sure, I've run them in the dim distant past.

what kind of money are we talking to rebuild these wheels for good clinchers?

Depends on the builder, spokes etc, but if you choose to go for a cheap set of factory wheels, you're going to have to factor in an 8-speed cassette and chain - that's assuming the hub will be the correct spacing - so it's probably swings-and-roundabouts which route is more cost effective.

You might be able to find a rim that uses the same spokes to save money - CXP22s would need shorter spokes I think.

Better to buy new wheels, with spokes, rims and labour you will be talking as much if not more, and those hubs may be shite/worn.

Open sports and DIY might be worthwhile as the spoke length might be OK.

I'll second the sticker recognition as GL 330's. The hubs look like Mavic 501's; I've got a pair of these from 1993 which are still on the original bearings, so the're certainly built to last.

Also, tub repairs aren't difficult; it just takes patience, strong thread, some Copydex and a thumb of steel. Changing a tub on the road is one of the easiest puncture repairs you'll ever do (assuming you remember to carry a spare).

So (and let the idiot questions continue 😳 ) you can actually replace a tubular tyre mid-ride? Don't you have to scrape off the old glue etc?

In case this is not obvious, I am not a bike maintenance expert.

So (and let the idiot questions continue ) you can actually replace a tubular tyre mid-ride? Don't you have to scrape off the old glue etc?

It's quite easy, more so if you use tub tape (double sided tape), simply pull the tub off and stick the replacement, pre-taped tub on and pump up hard. You used to fold the replacement tub up so the tape was against tape and hang it under the saddle with a alfredo binda toe strap. like shown here http://www.abovecategorycycling.com/archives/1220

If you don't want the tubs I'll have them.
running tubs isn't such a big deal, partly as they don't puncture as much. Changing on the run is easy as long as you have the spare.
Contrary to the above I reckon that they are much easier to replace if they are glued. If the spare is a used one, which will have residue of glue is easy.
All you do is yank the old one off and bung the other on. A bit of air gives shape and you line them up and inflate.
I have never managed to use tape without it pulling off when the tyre is removed. Usually part of it stays on the rim. It has been suggested that you replace the tape with each tyre replacement. Crackers, they haven't been shown how to run tubs properly.
Tubs are not as handy as they are not quite as fast to change and as nowadays a club run won't have several riders with tubs, you may find yourself alone and in theory 2 punctures may mean you are caught out.
Like I said, I may have the tubs .
mattsccm AT fsmail DOT net