Has anyone tried any of the cheap, miniature master link pliers? I assume Wolf tooth ones are the gold standard, but a bit spendy. I've seen low cost eBay knock offs, has anyone tried them?
I'm not interested in the link storage function,.just the core pliers bit.
I've got a cheapy combined tyre lever and master link plier in my on bike kit, works fine.
they are, in my opinion, not needed. if out on the trail, just position the split over part of the chainring then skip one link on the next tooth (so one end of the splitlink is pointing up), the rest of the chain goes on the ring as normal. Tap the middle of the top of the splitlink with a handy rock and it'll pop right open
Are these to go on your pack or for workshop use?
I've got these
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtSDv8O in my pack and they're fine but, all being said, the link plier is about the most useless trailside tool ever.
I can't think of any occasion you'll need to break a power link mid ride, and putting one together doesn't need pliers neither trail side nor in a workshop.
Is it for out on the bike? I have some tiny link pliers that work just as well as my big workshop ones
Has anyone tried any of the cheap, miniature master link pliers?
Yep, I carry a tiny pair in my tool kit on the bike. They're fine for an emergency repair.
Mine were £5 off Amazon 'KLOP256 Bike Chain Pliers'
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B089S3VXSH
Just bought another couple of pairs, will add them to all my bike saddle bag tool kits!
I've got one that looks like this- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314259594814
The pivot is a bit loose and floppy but it works perfectly. I've never tried to use it as a tyre lever though and probably wouldn't bother.
I gave my cheapo split link pliers to my son, so have been using circlip pliers to open chains.
To refit there's a tip from Sram, where you have the split link at the top (before the crank), hold the back brake and turn the pedal - the link pops into place.
Obviously not really answering the OP's question, but just finding it odd that there can be a "gold standard" in such a simple tool. Cheapos do the job just fine.
I have the one sharkattack linked to above
Works ok as a link plier but had to drill out the holes for the chain links as the holes were too small.
they are, in my opinion, not needed. if out on the trail, just position the split over part of the chainring then skip one link on the next tooth (so one end of the splitlink is pointing up), the rest of the chain goes on the ring as normal. Tap the middle of the top of the splitlink with a handy rock and it’ll pop right open
In my experience that's all fine and dandy if you can actually rotate the chain...
Discovered the hard way during a post-Christmas ride that none of the tools the 5 of us had could remove my 12-speed links, so had to split the chain and put in another link. I bought both a Wolf-copy and a pair if these small pliers above for, one for each bike bag.
Cheaper but similar options are:
Granite Talon which is also a tyre lever: https://www.merlincycles.com/granite-talon-tyre-levers-with-chain-link-tips-241592.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-GB&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Workshop+Tools&ucpo=155525&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_P6dBhD1ARIsAAGI7HAoBTscEiN1Gvtf9WQYGHUSYwkggo6588OC0GJ23G7rlFfJVB3hl7kaAqK0EALw_wcB
Very similar Topeak power lever X: https://www.tweekscycles.com/topeak-power-lever-x-eukttl007/?istCompanyId=56f52ebf-49f3-492a-9cbb-cb6ab0fc1bf0&istFeedId=33b89177-5114-4491-9c2a-09a3a7cb23b2&istItemId=pxwipxrxp&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_P6dBhD1ARIsAAGI7HCPgSU0GWwsTiRuq9A99NltHx85CISfbU93ZgXyhTRha6j0axp4M_oaAtBLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
In my experience that’s all fine and dandy if you can actually rotate the chain…
+1
When the chain has totally jammed behind the cassette or inbetween the frame and chainset, you're a bit screwed...
Lezyne multi for me, feels similar quality to the wolftooth 8bit but costs loads less. Has a decent chain breaker too which gave it the knod over the cheaper pliers already mentioned.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/lezyne-multi-chain-pliers/rp-prod200264
I have these and they are very good. I have used them multiple times as both tyre levers and quick link pliers.
I've the AliExpress/eBay one. Bought after a log/mech/chain/spoke destroying moment. Riding partner had a pair of the genuine wolf tooth ones with him so we quickly had the chain off. Pushing an eBike up our local hill ('The Drain') was character building to say the least.
Doubt I'll ever use it in anger now though.
In my experience, when your chain is jammed up and it's covered in mud and ice and you're wearing gloves, effortlessly popping open or closing a link using the right tool is infinitely preferable to any other bodge you have.
Granite Talon here...not had to use it yet, but seems ok. I suspect the tyre lever bits will fail long before the plier bits.
Has anyone had any luck using this type?
I like that it wouldn't take up much space but dunno how effective it would be.
I agree better to have the right tool than bodge. I’ve snapped a chain a couple of times over the years. If you have a chain tool you can cut the damaged bit out and make 2 good ends to then put in the quick link you have in your pack. Jobs a good un.
So my advice is make sure you have a chain tool or multi tool as well.
Granite Talon here, used them in the garage instead of my my proper pair just to test and they work as advertised.
@birky, suspect that would work, but my concern would be how easy it could be to get bent in my toolkit (it gets packed in my bumbag so it has to flex a bit, I suspect something like that might flex bu not flex back and the sharp ends could end up puncturing something or some part of me when I crash. Other than my odd thinking, I suspect that would work.
I’ve got the One Up.
Works.
Lives in my bum bag with a tiny Leatherman.
I considered grinding a couple of notches in the Leatherman pliers to do the job. But didn’t.
Just take your shoe lace off and use that. You don't need to carry link pliers 🙂
Thanks for all the replies.
I've struggled with power links in the past,tried string, bit of cable etc and that's in the garage, so forget it in the field.
Have normal sized pliers now for home use and they work a treat, so some cheap mini ones in the backpack seem a no brainer.
Cheers
In my experience, when your chain is jammed up and it’s covered in mud and ice and you’re wearing gloves, effortlessly popping open or closing a link using the right tool is infinitely preferable to any other bodge you have.
Oh, Amen to that. Bought the wolf tooth and have used it a couple of times in anger and it just makes the whole process juts that little bit easier and quicker. I'm sure the bodge works if you've done it before and you know what you're doing. Me, I'd rather have the tool for the job.
Granite Talon here, not used in anger on the trails but used at home in the workshop.
+1
When the chain has totally jammed behind the cassette or inbetween the frame and chainset, you’re a bit screwed…
Once you've split the master link, what do you do? I'm assuming the answer is still* pull really **** hard/wiggle it about a bit, same as it is without splitting the link?
I'm guessing I'm missing something that, should I find the chain jammed twixt cassette and spokes, I'll be glad of knowing.
*thus has it ever been since I had a BMX
Once you’ve split the master link, what do you do? I’m assuming the answer is still* pull really **** hard/wiggle it about a bit, same as it is without splitting the link?
In the case with the chainset, once I've split the link I can just slide the chain out without damaging anything and just put it back on without damaging any more paint.
Another granite user, easy to use and tyre levers as well, not a bad price either, plus they can be used to reinsert the link if it's a little stiff by using them separately and levering.
Once you’ve split the master link, what do you do? I’m assuming the answer is still* pull really **** hard/wiggle it about a bit, same as it is without splitting the link?
Except with a split chain you've more 'angles' to play with etc.
Another vote for Granite Talon. Used several times without issue. I think the little rubber band could be better but I haven't had any issues with it.
I've used my wolftooth master link pliers a few times and each time I've been really grateful for the lack of faff. Sure it's another bit of kit, but it fits really nicely in the Topeak toolkit pouch I'm using for my ratchet multitool. Plus its worth it for the sense of smug self satisfaction at having the right tool for the job
I have a cheapie, it works great- it's basically an easy job, no different from circlip pliars except with much less stress and much more space, so the tool doesn't have to be clever. I've done it with a gear cable and that works fine but is a bit fiddlier.
Only ever needed it/wanted it for splitting a dirty chain at home, never felt the urge while out riding, fitting a clean link doesn't- ime anyway- require it
Am I correct in saying they can be reversed to join the link as well?
Shouldn't need a tool for that - first push down of the pedal should have it clicked into place.
Connex links are genuinely finger fit. No tools required to fit or remove. They really are the dogs bollox.
Topeak Mini 20 multitool has a master link tool built in. It also has tubeless plug tools so it's really good at slimming down your toolkit, just need to add a plier/knife multitool to be covered for everything.
I was not impressed by the wolf tooth pliers. Maybe it was just my set but there was play in the pivot, my links didn’t fit inside properly and the magnet was a bit too weak to hold them closed. For almost 40 quid they just seemed a bit meh so I sent them back and now continue to use my leatherman ps style. This weighs about the same but also has other tools which are useful like tiny scissors, file and tweezers. The pliers work well on 11 speed chains but not tried them on 12 yet
@winston Have you modified your Style PS?
I find it a bit too fat to fit in the narrow link & not enough hook on the end to grip the roller.
