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Hmmm. so enjoying the DMR trailstar but I seem to have scratched it up a lot in a month and it's starting to rust.
I just wiped it with some WD40 and out for an hour or so... but what else other than washing and drying after each ride?
Not going to comment on scratches to the paintwork. However, do make sure you use grease/carbon paste for the Seatpost/dropper, re-do regularly, and every month or so, undo the clamp and twist the post - this avoids it seizing up inside the frame.
hardtailonly
Fair point but not presently a concern as I'm sharing with the 11yr old so the 125mm dropper is going up and down on a QR and when I'm riding bike parks I drop it all the way anyway.
(Bit of a pain as the cable needs pushing through each time)
Steel frames rust from the inside out - if you ride in the wet, if you can take the post out and hang it upside down and let the water run out. You can also get Frame Saver spray as a rust inhibitor.
cheers dovebiker....
Fromm what I can see you can't buy the Weigle one anymore but Surley seem to say linseed oil will work.
You want a rust-inhibitor.
I use Scottoiler FS365 on the frame and components. Spray after every ride.
Plus grease on the seat post etc
That said, it takes a lot to rust through a steel frame. Are you sure it's nothing more than superficial?
Weigle's frame saver no longer available in UK; ProGold frame protector is widely available - and good stuff.
For serious corrosion protection, a sailing mag tested a bunch in salt water. Crc heavy duty corrosion spray did well, as did LPS3, it forms a sticky film, so good for inside the frame but don't use it anywhere you might touch. Waxoyl and the bilt hamber cavity wax have a good rep for cars.
Spray it in any hole you can find, hang frame, repeat rotating frame so the stuff runs everywhere.
Strip the bike down and use wax oil spray inside.
On the exterior rust spots I apply the closest matching hammerite no primer using an artists small brush and then a bit of clear nail polish to laquer it. Its not pretty but stops the rust spreading on the outside. As above for interior treatment.
You have to be careful with Waxoyl. If you have an excess in the frame and you have your bike in a hot car it can melt and dribble out of the hole at the end of your chain stays and end up on your discs.
To combat this I sprayed mine, warmed it with a heat gun whilst swirling it about then I left it dropouts down and warmed it some more so the excess ran out.
I also had to degrease the seat tube.
I've seen a few frames rusted out, particularly the chain stays behind the BB shell as that's where the water gathers. Also water in your BB is a good way of trashing your bearings if there's a hole between your BB shell and seat tube.
Exterior rust protection - don't bother.
Internal rust protection - never bothered.
The steel used to make bike frames is a fair bit more resistant to corrosion than the stuff used to make old BL cars and 90's Fiats. I've had steel frames 12+ years old, I wouldn't say they looked like new, but they don't look any worse than any aluminium frame once you wipe the orange stains off.
You have to be careful with Waxoyl.
True. Can also melt and drip into electric bits, causing very hard to find faults.
I prefer the wax type for exposed parts of cars that require it to stick. The more fluid ones for interior parts because they creep better and don't have the melting problem. The excess will drop out though, initially
The last two steel hardtails Ive owned have been high temperature phosphate oxide treated prior to painting and theres no bare metal anywhere except the Bb Threads.
You can get low temperature 'black oxide' kits for home use. It effectively creates a less durable equivalent of kashima that you then saturate with oil and it holds it in its structure. Seems like it might be a neater version of 'spray a sticky oil on the inside and hope it runs everywhere' methodology. Certainly a bit more hassle though.
ACF 50 is good stuff. A half way in viscosity between the scotoil and waxoyl.
That said, it takes a lot to rust through a steel frame. Are you sure it’s nothing more than superficial?
Yeah, deffo superficial though now I checked rust coming from chainstays a bit...
ProGold frame protector is widely available – and good stuff.
Cool one of these will get used...
On the exterior rust spots I apply the closest matching hammerite no primer using an artists small brush and then a bit of clear nail polish to laquer it.
Might just rub it down a bit and clearcoat... or as its black use my "stanchion black" auto paint then clearcoat.
Generally my attitude has been "don't worry about it" but I've only had my steel bike 3 or 4 years.
I did drill a drain hole in the bottom of the BB shell when I took out an orange BB.
Have a look at the planet x jumping Jack flash if you want cheap.you can always upgrade the fork.doubt itvwill ride any different than a steel frame.
http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-174.html
http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html
Have a look at the planet x jumping Jack flash if you want cheap.you can always upgrade the fork.doubt itvwill ride any different than a steel frame.
Chalk and cheese .... I'm absolutely blown away how different they feel.
I had a NS steel frame before and I was expecting something similar with the Trailstar but its COMPLETELY different.
The Jackflash to NS is possibly small, you might notice back to back but the gap to the DMR is huge.
Apologies I posted the above then thought stw had removed it from the correct post.
No need to apologise ... I most certainly hadn't expected such a HUGE difference.
I bought one of each frame the same week.... and I'm astounded just how different they feel. (Especially by the Trailstar - the Jack Flash feels how I'd expected not a bad thing just VERY different feel)
I've been recommended ACF50 for my chrome plated Canfield Nimble 9
I don't suppose anyone will be interested but my HT frame is 30 years old & hasn't gone rusty & I haven't looked after it (as far as treating the tubes with anything goes)
Built up in 1990, Tange Prestige, by a guy called Kevin Winter. If youv'e heard of Donohue road bikes you may have heard of Kevin Winter.
Stop worrying.
Another recommendation for acf50 here. Excellent stuff.