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As a fan of long, low and slack 'regular' bikes I am wondering if there are many/any viable LLS E-Bikes?
Mondraker E-Crafty or Level are both decently long in the XL versions but most of the other E-Bikes I see are quite conservative in the geometry dept!
The Vitus E-Sommet?
The E-Sommet would be my call as well.
Nicolai G16 EBOXX is another LLS option, but it's hard to see past the value of the Vitus.
Is Geex about to comment on the reliability of the Shimano motor in the Vitus?
He doesn't need to now you've done it for him.
There isn't a mainstream motor out there that doesn't have some sort of fault, so I'd be looking at geo first, followed by motor. Vitus is the obvious choice, assuming you can get one that still has all it's paint attached.
Nicolai looks awesome, but is going to be a serious tank and has the very long in the tooth Bosch motor.
OP, just how LLS is your current bike?
@doomanic my current bike is 510mm reach, 62* HA as far as I recall. I'm not expecting to equal that on an e-bike as no one seems to be in that ballpark but looking to see what the most LLS option might be...
@singlespeedstu what is wrong with the Shimano motor? I was led to believe it was well regarded?
Current choices seem to be Mondraker, Scott E-Genius or the Vitus but I'd prefer the Vitus to be longer....
There isn’t a mainstream motor out there that doesn’t have some sort of fault
I'm well aware of that but have also seen a fair few Bosh and a few Shimano motors waiting for warranty at my LBS. I've not seen any Brose motors in the same pile but I'm sure there have been some.
what is wrong with the Shimano motor?
As I don't own one I don't know.
That's were Geex might be able to give you more info as he's had a couple of warranty claims on his.
both my E8000 warranty issues were for main motor axle (BB) bearings.
Folk keep telling me they're getting 2000miles+ out of their motors with no issues.
All I know is I can't get 500miles without it starting to creak then develop axle play and need replaced. Having seen how most Emtb riders actually ride, the main difference I think is how I ride mine.
But I "could" have just been unlucky
There's no other Emtb as low (BB) as the E-Sommet. It's proper low. (Not LLS BS like so many other on trend bandwagon bikes)
few Emtbs are as slack (H/A)
few are as long.
Few are as light
I wouldn't actually advise going long on an Emtb, I'm 5'11" and my E-Sommet is a small (at 435mm reach isn't actually short). go to an L or XL and you'll struggle to manual the thing.
I rode a £7.7k L mondraker RR last week and hated it, far too heavy (aty least 10lb heavier than mine) and too long to even get it up onto the rear wheel nevermind have any fun doing so.
folk think weight doesn't matter because of the motor.
The motor does **** all to help you manual, pump, hop, jump, stoppie etc.
a shorter lighter bike helps with every one of those things.
All that motor/battery weight being as low and central (as with the E8000) increases stability and improves suspension performance meaning going Loooooooooooong to gain even more stability really isn't required. Infact it's dumb, you'll just ruin handling/nimbility by doing so.
Trust me on this.
Despite the hassle I've been through (and still am) I wouldn't want any other Emtb just now.
The Lapierre E-Zesty is the only other bike I'd consider but it has a paltry 250wh battery so kinda pointless when I can drain a 504wh battery in an hour doing shuttle laps at my favourite steep riding spot(s)
I have other regular bikes to ride while it's out of action over in Ireland for a few months each year.
What's most annoying is that there's no Shimano STEPS service centre in the UK. And anyone other than a Shimano Service centre replacing opening the motor (nevermind replacing the bearings) voids the warranty. It's not going to exacly be rocket science to do so.
Madison just replace them. DumbAF
Geex.
I was thinking about your motor problems the other day.
Do you think it might be something to do with you riding it with the motor turned off?
It's a heavy bike and with no assistance it must be putting more force through the main BB bearings rather than the motor taking the strain and the forces going through the drive/ chainring bearing?
Not saying it is what's causing it but it might be one of the reasons.
Absolutely not
pedalling/crank forces go through those bearings in exactly the same way on or off.
Folk have also suggested it's probably down to pedal strikes. Only I don't encounter pedal strikes.
The E8000 has a small amount of lateral movement built into its crank axle. sprung adjustment rather than pre-loaded like a set of HTII bearings. My guess is. repeated sideways landings and sideways (cornering) loads is simply too much for the bearings and that sort of design.
Like I said though. I "could" just be unlucky.
When I eventually get the bike back again I'm planning on riding the shit out of it as much as I can just to see if it happens as quickly again.
come up and join me. could be fun!
We will be up again but not for a couple of months.😎
sideways (cornering) loads is simply too much for the bearings and that sort of design.
I still think that riding it without the power on would generate more side load forces than riding it turned on as you're having to put more power in than with the motor on.
Nah... Side loads from pedalling (when off) aren't any more than I'd put through any mtb BB and I'm hardly Chris Hoy. 😉
The proper side load froces are going to come from repeated G-outs, impacts and landings (especailly the sideways variety).
Back when 100mm ISIS BBs were spec'd on DH bikes I'd only get a few hours riding out of FSA Platinum DH BBs before play developed. Same deal. And those bikes barely even got pedalled at all.
Either way though. whichever is the cause. The ones I've killed have clearly not been fit fro/up to purpose.