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Hi all,
I have a set of Pike RCT3, on my 2014 Kona 153. Since I bought the bike (used), I have not really been able to tell the difference from the fork being locked out to fully open - from just bouncing on the fork in a carpark at least.
Is the lockout not that obvious when doing the carpark test, or is there something likely wrong with my fork?
Thanks,
Duane
Good question. My two sets of 2016 have never locked out from new.
Same with my mid 2015 ones. Doesn't fully lockout but can tell the difference between open and not
2016 ones here, 6 months old. Used to lock out more than they lock out now 🙄
Unfortunately common. I got a refund on mine last year, as they were like that from new.
My 2yr old pikes have noticeable difference in all 3 settings. Normally just use trail for climbing
You need to bleed the damper - £20 quid for the kit, instructions all over the net.
It is not as complicated as it looks.
People who have a none functioning lockout...do you have ONLY 3 distinct positions on the lever? If you have MORE than 3 available positions and the lever keeps turning until it hits the crown then you most likely have the problem I encountered...
http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/problem-with-rockshox-pike-rct3-solo-damper-knob
Essentially if you turn the knob too far the damper can start to unscrew itself...see pictures in thread
There's a recognised issue with first generation 35mm Pikes where the damper seal head leaks and allows air into the damper, cue lack of lock-out and generally random rebound damping. Bleeding the damper will make a difference in the short term, but if the seal is iffy, it'll just happen again.
Cure is either an aftermarket seal head or you can upgrade to the part used in the current Pike - if it's a 26" one, you need to change the damper tube as well as the new head is longer than the old one.
If you're mechanically semi-competent you can do the work yourself, I managed to fit an aftermarket part and bleed the damper plus re-assamble in about 30 minutes, or someone like LoCo would be able to sort it for you.
BadlyWiredDog
I was going to do the seal head mod at the same time as the fix in the above link as the stock one is really crap as you say. At the time I was put off by the price of the seal - can't remember where I was trying to buy it from but it seemed extortionate. Have you done the mod and if so where did you get the seal from?
BadlyWiredDog
Cheers for the info
I've not really ridden my bikes for a year or so due to [i]things[/i], but on the last couple of outings i've noticed my rebound seems to be shot and after a fiddle with the knobs it seems the lockout does nothing either. I thought it may be due to lack of use and it would work itself right with a bit of riding but it's not improved. They are due a service anyway...
I was going to do the seal head mod at the same time as the fix in the above link as the stock one is really crap as you say. At the time I was put off by the price of the seal - can't remember where I was trying to buy it from but it seemed extortionate. Have you done the mod and if so where did you get the seal from?
I bought it, at an extortionate price, from Australia, but at the time I didn't seem to have much choice 🙁
The good news now is that you can retrofit the part from the latest RS Pike - 650b and 29er versions it goes straight on, if it's 26" you also need to buy the damper tube. Should be able to get the parts from a RS dealer I guess, TFTuned or similar, LoCo too.
I've not really ridden my bikes for a year or so due to things, but on the last couple of outings i've noticed my rebound seems to be shot and after a fiddle with the knobs it seems the lockout does nothing either. I thought it may be due to lack of use and it would work itself right with a bit of riding but it's not improved. They are due a service anyway...
Those were the symptoms I had. Three clicks on the RCT knob, but no real difference between them. If you remove the lowers and a whole bunch more oil than there should be comes out of the damper side leg, then that's probably what it is, as the damper oil leaks out past the sealhead and into the lower.
Because the performance degrades gradually, I think it's easy to miss until something really obvious shows up like the quasi lock-out not working. Felt a load better all round once they were fixed.
Just checked my new 2015 pikes before I fit them and was concerned they were not locking out as they felt too soft. Pumped them up to 120psi and they feel better and get stiffer with each click but don't fully lock out. Is this normal?
Another thing I did notice is the knob is very stiff, doesn't flick round nicely like my fox ctd dial which is a shame as I find you are less likely to use the lockout if you have to really fight the knob when riding.
Lockout is not a 'full' lockout on the RCT3 damper more a heavy low speed compression circuit, so NOT solid.
There should be a noticeable difference between the the open, pedal/threshold & 'lockout' settings.
We bleed all the cartridges on the new forks we sell before they leave us, some need it some don't.
The adjuster knobs can slip if not tight enough, but don't [i]really[/i] force them tight on as they slip, and keep the knurled contact surface that mates to the under side of the knob clean and grease free for a good grip.
Sealheads are the weak point on pre 2016 Forks, new uprated full service kits are due next month apparently, although I'm not believing that till I see them having waited [i]months[/i] for them to appear already 😉
Good detailed reply as always, thanks. Will see how it goes and then hope the new seals are out by its first service!
I notice epic are doing charge bleed adapters now.
Nigh just tempt me to get an avalanche open bath damper for these. I loved the one in my Fox 36s.
Just Done the service on my rc pikes got the latest seal kit from here
The kit includes the new seal head, but they also sell it on its own.
Cheers