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Hi, have real trouble with rear punctures on my 29er. DHR II rear 2.4WT, which i really like, apart from the endless punctures.. doesnt seem to be a DD or even a *gulp* DH version. Any suggestions? A huck norris has been ordered but stock levels mean i'm still waiting for it.
Ran the tyre at 25 psi, 30mminternal rims,got snakebites. stuck in a tube went up to 35psi, still snakebiting. Grr. Weird as they lasted well in Finale but back in Sweden its happening a fair bit. Ta muchly!
rimming out seems to be a thing of the past - evey when others are at it.
im running an EXO casing DHR II and was constantly burping tires in hard cornering prior to trying this.
Did you try tubeless and higher pressure?
I had it tubeless at 25 psi, got holes in the tyre so stuck in a tube. So no, not tried it tubeless at higher pressures. I don't really want to run higher pressures! Kind of the point of WT tyres and rims no?
I’m really liking my Bonty SE5. It is listed as a 2.3 but comes up bigger than the equivalent Maxxis (not sure how it compares to 2.4 WT versions tho’) and it is tougher than EXO. Comes in at a shade under 1,000g and the extra weight seems to be in the right places.
Tubeless and a better sealant?
Weird as they lasted well in Finale but back in Sweden its happening a fair bit. Ta muchly!
How old is it? Was it a hard week in Finale? Could just have got through the life of the sidewall with lots of hit there.
I did think that @mikewsmith but they genuinely don't seem worn.
It's a snakebite / hole through the top of the tyre that doesn't seal. Has been every time. Had a couple on the sidewall at the bead at the same time, but not always. it is one trail particular that is doing it , a rocky drop. It's a great trail and im basically avoiding it now due to the inevitable puncture.
if you are getting snakebite punctures your pressures are too low for the riding you are doing and your riding style
Thanks, Never had a problem before at these pressures in 27.5 version , on a longer travel bike and narrower rim admittedly but its an interesting one
@yetiman thanks for the suggestion. I have a g5 on the DH bike and like it alot so that could be an option
I’m wondering if it’s something to do with the WT versions now I’ve read this. I’ve used DHR II for ages without issue but my first 2.4WT lasted about 10 miles before it “buckled”. Side walls look noticeable more damaged than tyres of the same spec but not WT that have done hundreds of miles on the same rocky terrain.
My DHR II on the front has buckled too. Not tried riding on it yet to see if I can live with it. Maxxis were always fine at trail centres, but anything more natural and I've started to destroy them!
Never really been too hard on tyres before.
I'd second the SE5. Great tyre front or rear, though now prefer something with more bite up front in mud.
IMO 25psi is too low on the rear on anything remotely rocky if you ride at any sort of pace, even tubeless.
Generally ~30psi seems to work.
Other option could be a Butcher Grid 2.6. I find the Grid tyres are like a DD in terms of puncture resistance.
20-25 psi here no issues, rocky Morocco didn't phase them. As for pressure depends on your weight and how you ride I guess. I'm using an Aggressor now also a very good tyre.
@johnw1984 - be careful. I found a reasonable amount of horror stories about buckled tyres exploding shortly afterwards. Mine is in no way rideable - had to stick a Highroller II I had hanging around on as a temporary fix.
There is a DH version, but if you’re happy to ride at 35 with a tube (which will feel like more with a tube) why not try 30ish tubeless with holes repaired and better sealant?
DH one is MXT96797500
@pawsybear. Agreed, depends on weight of rider , conditions , lots of factors. I guess my factors combined mean 25psi with that tyre and my set up doesnt work, which surprised me.
cheers @sillyoldman.. incidently i don't like a tube at 35psi, it sucked..!
when people say better sealant, whats wrong with stans?
edit: just got notification that my two Huck norris (norrisi?) are on the way. might repair the tyre, stick one huck in the back and see if that sorts it. perhaps at 30psi 🙂 ... although i guess lower pressures with one of those in....!
There is a big difference between the durability of the MegaExo and DD casings. The MegaExo seem to work ok for some people but I can't really run them on the back any more.
I'd agree with Hob Nob tbh, up the pressure a bit, especially if you've moved to a shorter a shorter travel bike.
hole through the top of the tyre sounds more like you're hitting something pointy.
FWIW i'm running chunky monkey 2.4 tubeless at 19PSI. i occasionally rim strike but not often.
Always had issues with exo tyres on the rear, have slashed DD too but usually sorted with sealant.
Had an SE5 which was really good, if a little small width-wise. Ended up landing a bit dodgy and warped the tread which was bizarre.
On a DD HR2 which has been OK so far. Would have liked to try a WTB tough tyre, how about the convict - if it comes in 29"?
I'm pretty sure that they will just rip at the tread blocks if you're heavy/clumsy enough.
I have a WTB tough on the front of my hardtail (cos cheap offers) running tubed at 18/20 psi. Not had a problem, proper tough casing, definitely feels thicker and tougher than a Butcher grid for example. If was looking for a tough rear tyre, I usually run EXO, then the WTB tough casing would be up there.
Christ I just picked up a 29er DHR2 Exo for the rear as my super gravity magic mary is getting abit draggy now its drying up, was worried already about exo on the rear but not after reading this I am more nervous!
"when people say better sealant, whats wrong with stans?"
I always ran Stan's. While I was at work (5 weeks) my tires would always deflate and the Stan's would dry up.
Couldn't get Stan's quick once when I got home a while back. Got hole of some Caffe latex and my tires have never gone down while at work again.
Ergo Stan's isn't the best.
The new Butcher Grid with the Gripton compound are alot thinner on the side walls than the older version. Abigale managed to kill one in practice at the French EWS last month, she had the old version on the back and the new on the front. She had a spare of the older version and fitted that for the race. We managed to get hold of a few of the older compound tyres to see her through the season and bought some EXO DHF and DHR for her to try. We had a good look at the tyre when it finally came home and the sidewalls are more like the older controls. Looking at it against the two tyres she had on all last season I can understand why.The EXO thickness falls between the old and new grids for sidewall thickness.
I've been running DHR2 exo 2.3 on the rear with no issues for a couple of years but the WT versions seem to be lighter sidewalls (running one on the front at the moment). I use the Stans Race sealant which seems able to seal pretty much any hole my clumsy riding causes without issues. Just to put that into context I am over 90KG and more in the monster trucking rather than skilled line choice style! I am on narrower rims though - WTB i23s don't n=know if the profile makes a difference?
OP, I gave up on Maxxis a year ago for similar reasons. Tyres always failing, usually the sidewalls, long before the tread wore out despite relatively high pressures. I ran Continental der Kaiser/Baron for a while, which offer great sidewall support, grip and puncture protection, but the beads kept blowing clean off the tyres instead. Now on Specialized Butcher Grid 2.6 (more like a 2.4 really) which are good. Similar grip to DHR2 but a bit more supportive sidewall. I haven't ridden them anywhere rocky yet though. I'm on a 29er as well, FWIW.
my first 2.4WT lasted about 10 miles before it “buckled”
My DHR II on the front has buckled too
This seems to be a thing with Maxxis. I've had a 2.5 DHF WT do it, a 2.3 Shorty and a friend has had a new DHF do it too, then another a BPW the other week. Loads of life left in the tyre, just really annoying wobble.
Seems to happen if you land a bit sideways. Not had it with other manufactures.
Double down and Downhill versions of the DHR 29 are available. Bike components .de has them both.
Your<span style="font-size: 0.8rem;">h coices are really down to more air or less speed or beefier tyres. I'd go beefy Everytime.</span>
Grid casing sidewalls start out as impressively stiff but over time turn into something as stiff as a Rizla.
Never had that problem with the older sidewalls, new ones nowhere near as good.
+1 I can't run Maxxis rears - sidewalls can't take it. Now on Schwalbe SG or WTB, which are much tougher.
ok so we have SE5 on the list to try.... Specialized not as good anymore.... what other tyres then...?
I would add that it is for a 2018 smuggler, so 2.4 (and a Maxxis 2.4 at that) is the limit width wise, crappy clearance...
My DHR II has a wee wobble in it (plus a wonky wheel) bit the casing still largely seems OK and it's not ripped (yet).
Im probably going to regret not buying a few more before they all go, did a search when we were having problems with the new sidewalls to find out who still had the 2017 ones.
I know they had a couple more left at the time
https://www.freeborn.co.uk/specialized-butcher-grid-2bliss-2017
2nd Tough/ High Grip WTB tyres. Thick and tough as. Not sure what the equivalent to a DHR is though.. Convict?
The uodated 2018 E thirteen TRS in the harder compoound?
Not sure which of the many sidewall options those have but I'd echo the comments about too low a tyre pressure. Front needs to grip - rear needs to not go bang! 28 as a minimum on the rear if riding anything tech with a bit of speed.
Not really like for like, that. Maxxis Double Down is equivalent to SG
given up on maxxis on the rear and now using a michelin wild rock r, seems to be working well and much tougher sidewalls
"30psi in my Minions.... I don’t care about your opinions"
Sorry had to