[Closed] Light weight Ghetto tubeless attempt

Well this thread went down like a lead balloon 😐

update is 2 rides and the front tyre is still inflated and looking good
so good I am going to do the back wheel this weekend .

Well I appreciated your efforts! Always good to see someone willing to try new things or be the guinea pig! Looks like a neat job, and as though the spoke bed is probably better sealed than on some proprietary tubeless specific rims. If you needed to replace a spoke how easy would it be?

Seems like lots of effort where duct tape a stans valve and closed cell foam will tubless a fatty in about 10mins but top effort for having some fun.

Nice work, but do your weight calculations take into account the >200ml of sealant? Probably easiest just to weigh the whole wheel before and after. Good to see it can be done, looking forward to getting my fat bikes rolling.

Oh - and if you had 'fat bike' in the title I guarantee you would have many more responses!

what's the underlay for?

BTW I water down this kind of stuff for my own gunk
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liquid-Latex-Mould-Moulding-Dipping-Rubber-1-Litre-/260831403658?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item3cbac35e8a

cheaper than branded stuff by a mile.

JGG
Cheers will cross the spoke bridge when it happens. though the plastidip is easily touched up if the nipple has to poke through for a spoke change

Tazzy. the idea was to remove as much as poss and not put back in the duct tape and it was using stuff i had to hand anyways

Sam. yes my calcs do include the sealant.
Sadly cant change the title now

[quote=Stoner said]what's the underlay for?
BTW I water down this kind of stuff for my own gunk
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liquid-Latex-Mould-Moulding-Dipping-Rubber-1-Litre-/260831403658?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item3cbac35e8a
cheaper than branded stuff by a mile.

What dilution ratio do you use ?

The foam underlay is to fill the well in the rim to make it easier to get air into the tyre and pop the beads on the rim

ta daaaaaa!

ATP - somewhere between 3:2 and 2:1 water:latex.
It's quite runny in the bottle, but not quite enough.

Merci 🙂

trout - have you had a go without the underlay and found it to be harder to inflate?

Stoner
With a fatty rim you may get it to inflate with a compresser
but I dont think with a trail pump

Nicely done, I like that!

AHa.

The only thing Id think about is whether the underlay absorbs more than it's fair share of any gunk you've put inside the tube.

The Underlay is closed cell poly something and as such does not absorb liquids
just been doing the back wheel and had a go without foam and no way could I get the fatty wheel and tyre to become one
However the site I was working on today had some of this in the skip
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and chopped down to size it was perfect for the job

[URL= http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/Fat%20Bike/2013-05-10141303.jp g" target="_blank">http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/Fat%20Bike/2013-05-10141303.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

a bit denser that the stuff I used in the front so making getting the tyre on a bit harder but inflated first time

so visit your local kitchen firm and have a look in the skip 😀

trout - Member

Well this thread went down like a lead balloon 🙁

That's because everyone reads your first post, and they see that you can't even align the valve and tire logos! 🙄 😉 Which we all know is waaayyy more important than whether the tubeless system will actually hold air... 😆

I've wondered when someone would use small pieces of tape over each of the spoke nipples; you're the first that has posted that they did it that way.

But the sidewalls seem to be Holier than a holy thing from holeville

I've had 2.x inch regular tube-type MTB tires which were so porous that most of the sidewall was covered in a bubbling Stan's foam until it sealed up! My floaters only had a few pinhole leaks in the sidewalls which sealed up right away.

I will be interested to see if your foam stays in a condition that it can be reused. That's one of the drawbacks with the way I did it; the air inside the tire compresses the foam between the gorilla tape and the rim. This flattens the foam and it doesn't spring back, so it has to be replaced.

But the foam in your system isn't trapped between the tape and the rim, so it may stay intact. Which would be a big plus for your system!

I guess that you'll find out pretty soon when you redo yours to align the valve to the tire logos! 😀 Now, go tear it all apart and do it correctly!

Lol JoeG

Have whipped myself for the faux pas and wont do it again 😳

Will be redoing the foam in the front to use the same stuff as the rear so will see if it has crushed though it is different to your foam as its flooring underlay and a bit more robust than the window seal stuff.

the blue stuff seems good as makes a groove to hold the bead again will have to wait for either a
bad puncture or the tyre to wear out before the logos get aligned

I did wonder about the foam in a camping mat might be good for the job