[Closed] Light Bicycle Wheels (again, sorry)

I don't understand the question but I've had a set for about a year, can't fault them but I made a slight error in getting aero spokes and Ali nipples, go with dt spokes and brass nipples, for availability and reliability.

Just wondering how folk are getting on with them, longetivity etc.

Seem fine to me, I've damaged spokes but self inflicted, crashing, rear mech snapping off.

I have a pair of their road wheels, about 2 1/2 years old and have seen decent though not massive mileage - at least 3000 miles, maybe 4000+

The rear now has a slight bulge near the top at one point (ie right on the braking track) - not quite sure why rear and not front as surely the forces are higher on the front (weak spot all along?). I suspect the pair will now be retired.

It has been ridden in plenty of wet weather and on gritty, flinty roads but I'm still a little bit surprised - assuming that it's braking wear (plus maybe an impact or two once "thinner").

Been fine up to here though and I would buy them again, or even rims just to rebuild

Is it okay to rebuild on old spokes, assuming no difference ERD? Last shop I spoke to wouldn't do it, so may have to factor in new spokes also.

Leaning just a cheap pair of Novatec hubs as the only cost saving?

my hubs are novatec, FWIW - been absolutely fine

(I would - and do - happily rebuild with new rims but then nobody's going to moan at me if spokes start to fail early on)

I have a set of wheels built by LB and about a year old now. No problems so far in fact I am very happy with them. They are on a bike I don't use that much (Whyte G150) but have suffered a week in Spain and survived my incompetent crashing better than my helmet, a k-edge Garmin mount or an Endura shirt did. I have now bought some 24 hole rims for my hard tail and I'm reusing the old spokes on my old hope pro 3 sp 3 wheels and I'm optimistic they will be fine....time will tell

I've had 2 and a half sets... Killed one rim after a couple of years, but it stood up to a hell of a kicking along the way, any alu rim of the same weight wouldn't have stood a chance.

They gave me a discount towards my current set, which was a nice touch- they were out of warranty and besides, it wasn't remotely a warranty job, I smashed it on a big rock at bikepark wales chasing some big bikes on the hardtail 😆 Rode around on it for a week after too.

I have no idea what RR means.

Expect I'll get a couple of years then, they'll hopefully have an easier life than my alloy clinchers which will be my general purpose set.

Northwind, Road Race.

Anyone running the U shape road rims?. I'm very close to buying a pair.

I chose FarSports for road rims, they've got a far better choice than LB for road rims. Very impressed with my 38mm ones. 1320g with Tune Mig/Mag hubs and CX-Rays.

I've got the U shaped 45mm clinchers.Built onto American classics with CX Rays (self build).Sub 1500g and I've raced town centre crits (with cobbles) and plenty of miles without problem.Killed the front one by emergency stopping from about 40mph on 20% gradient (at 80kg) when a bin lorry decided to block the entire road.Went with a hell of a bang!!!I suspect no available carbon rim would have survived that!! Finally ordered a replacement last week (not ridden a road bike for nearly 18 months).

I'm really liking my 650b x 35 rims. Had the rim bed left sealed to make tubeless easier. I only wish I'd asked for a drain hole in the side wall as well.

Killed the front one by emergency stopping from about 40mph on 20% gradient (at 80kg) when a bin lorry decided to block the entire road.Went with a hell of a bang!

How did it 'go'? rim warped? Or spokes failed?

Also interested as I'd never expect any rim to fail just because I stuck the brakes on no matter how hard

Agreed, with the exception of prolonged braking on a descent, where I'd expect heat build up to kill it. Short, sharp braking should be fine though.

I put a pair on my full sus bike after xmas. Been giving them some stick in the Lakes. A few trips around the Borrowdale bash etc. So far so good I keep tyre pressure at 30psi to avoid rim/rock strikes.
The rims are 38mm all mountain version

Sidewall blew out.I did a rolling nose wheelie for about 30m at 30mph to a standstill.It did'nt go bang until after I stopped tbf.
I've seen Zipps,FSA,Bontrager and even Mavic CXR's all fail similarly under far easier circumstances.
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That would put me off using carbon rims with rim brakes 😯

Sounds like they are pretty dreadful

'All carbon wheels are dreadful' shocker. 🙄

He must mean rim brakes are dreadful. Back in the day I've seen inner tubes burst when aluminium rims got too hot but that was only very long descents and I put it down to too much brake dragging. Discs for everyone 🙂

This may be of interest to anyone with some unfashionable 26" wheels that have decent hubs. I have just replaced some old 26" Stans Crest rims with LB 38mm 650b rims as a straight swap using the old spokes. If anything the old spokes are a little long but not so long as to be a problem.

Great news. Just been measuring a 26 inch DT Swiss build on 240s.
I wanted to trash the rims and replace with 650's, so that's perfect.

I have to admit I didn't measure anything just chanced it based on the quoted ERDs which were 540mm on the crest and 535mm quoted by LB but having read on here that LB tend to underquote ERD by a couple of mm

Do the U-shaped road rims work with tubeless? Last I checked (a couple of years ago) they didn't recommend their road rims for tubeless.

#edit - OK I looked at the site and saw this "U shape 25mm depth Hand-built 700C carbon 25mm wide clincher road bicycle wheels for tubeless compatible". Looks like a new set of blingy road wheels onto my wishlist.