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bigjim: Cool. I can give you a shout when they're available if you like - just send me your email (my email is in m' profile). No worries if you change your mind later. They quoted me 10 days for manufacture of the XC's so I'm guessing about a month by the time they clear customs.
On the tubs side I am quite intrigued. 320g is insanely light and it seems like a flat rim bed ought to have a lot of advantages. Schwalbe list some 2.2 tub 29ers here: http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/racing_ralph_425
I keep seeing Nino flatting on them, though (suspect he is a slightly faster over the rocks than me however...)
320g is insanely light and it seems like a flat rim bed ought to have a lot of advantages.
Mmmm, it's not really. Certainly not heavy, but only 40g lighter than their clincher, [url= http://ax-lightness.de/en/cycling/bike-components/rims/srt-cc-29er/ ]AX Lightness tub rims[/url] are 255g and [url= http://www.innolite.se/?portfolio=rim-29-tubular ]Innolite[/url] ones are 285g. Clearly both vastly more expensive, but their clinchers are competitive with the expensive brands.
Schwalbe list some 2.2 tub 29ers here: http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/racing_ralph_425
Ralphs are fairly readily available, not cheap, but not insane.
I did wonder about using some of their 20mm road tub rims for MTB use, but they're 320g too, FarSports do some based on 250g rims, but not available separately.
Edit: here you go [url= http://www.carbonality.com/rt20w-20mm-tubular.html ]Carbonality 250g 23mm wide tub rims[/url]. No idea how long they'd last, or if you'd even get a decent width MTB tub on there!
first ride today, really good, happy with my build, no pinging spokes. rims are light and stiff, tyres are massive on them and I would struggle getting a big tyre in my rear triangle on these rims. Spoke tension decreased a lot when I put the tyres on but returns when I take them off so I might tighten them up a bit more to compensate.
[url= https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14450438438_4dfbb2eec0_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14450438438_4dfbb2eec0_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Just ordered 29" 35mm (AM) 32h. I want to use a pair of old pro2's on them.
Absolutely no idea how to build wheels so im going to give them to some one and say 'make wheels', but just wondering what size spokes and nipples would be recommended? I understand the website dimensions are not exact scanning through the threads.
Finally! Picked mine up today. Silver spokes which was not the plan, apparently correct size spokes for DT240s with these things are hard to come by... But they look good.
What doesn't look good is the 5mm or so of valve that's all that sticks out with my normal tubes and tubeless valves. Just wondered what valves people are using for tubeless?
Just wondered what valves people are using for tubeless?
Yeah just using normal stan's valves and they take a lot of messing around to get a pump on them. Bought some valve extenders but they don't work with these valves it seems, they leak and tyre goes flat in about 30 mins. Going to buy some longer valves I think, superstar do some longer ones.
Yeah, only in red though I think.
Need to do some measuring tomorrow. Got a hub problem to sort so got a little time...
there is a longer notubes valve too
Aye, 44mm extra long Stan's.
I wonder if these would be overkill. www.notubes.com/Pair-of-40mm-Threaded-Valve-Extenders-P611.aspx
My 35mm wide 29er rim finally arrived, 395g !! Wow.
I use these valves, 52mm long and perfect!!
[url= http://www.xcracer.com/shop/viewproduct.php?productid=262 ]Effetto Caffe[/url]
How much import duty are you guys getting hit for with these rims?
I'm sure it'll already be in the thread somewhere but i can't be bothered to read through all 15 pages 😆
I got charged £36 duty and Parcel Force charges on 4 rims.
I paid £37.26 duty and charges on my complete wheels.
I use 44mm valves cut from a couple of old tubes as I object to paying £15 for two valves when I could have half a dozen tubes (with valves) for the same price. But maybe that's just me being tight. And I payed around £25 duty most of which was to bloody parcelforce!
Is anyone using these in the Alps? I'm thinking of getting some in the DH flavour as I'm continually denting my DT Ex5.1s to the point I'm about to give up on tubeless as I keep getting leaks at the rim that won't seal, or would I be better off with a beefier metal rim? I'm looking for something I can run through rock gardens at 25psi without worry rather than low weight
Cheers Proutster, look perfect!
Steve - I'm pretty sure the carbons would be fine in the alps if you put sufficient pressure in your tyres.
Hitting the rim on stuff will spit no favours. More pressure, or less force hitting rocks would solve your problems.
@Steve... 5.1s are as soft as shite. But, all that really does is amplify the problem, if you're banging the rims often that'll cause you grief with any rim sooner or later.
Nothing specific about alps rocks that are bad for wheels but ime it generally means riding fast and blind over chunky terrain for extended periods so stuff gets whacked more. I'll probably put my battlescarred old Flows back on, not because they're tougher, just because I care less about them. And because I don't mind the weight increase so much with uplifts.
Just signed up to post that? Smells spammy.
Their website's dreadful on iPhone at least. I'll stick to Light Bicycle.
I concur with moar pressure.
I was running mine sub-20psi and between punctures it was a right laugh until the rim cracked.
LB have been good to sort me out with a replacement for the cost of postage although it is not a quick process so I built up another rim as a stop-gap.
I make sure my pressures are at least 25-30psi now.
sub-20psi
must have been like riding through treacle!
Not at all, faster rolling speeds on rough ground and enough support from the wide rim to prevent any rolling of the tyre in corners.
I was using WTB Vigilante on both ends so not skinny light weights but remarkably fast rolling for the amount of grip they offer.
Not sure if this of any significance or relevance, but may be worth noting anyway, but I just had a bead on a high roller LUST break before seating on the rim at 30psi, jeeebus what a noise! It was pretty tight to get onto the rim and it would seem popping onto the bead shelf was just too much strain for it. Wouldn't want it happening when riding. 26" 33mm rim.
I've found that running Hans Dampf on 29er 35mm rims, I'm running about 20psi or just under and I'm 14st!
To those running these rims - have you ever damaged alloy rims in the past?
Im tempted to get the LB rims but my current alloy ones have a few dings in them. I don't run low pressures (30psi + or so tubeless)
If I "ding" a carbon rim is it for the bin?
I'm not too bad on rims and tend to bunny hop drainage bars etc rather than hit them. I''ve not written off rims with dents but have a few dents in my old arches. I'm not expecting a long life from a carbon rim to be honest.
Not used LB rims, but have run various other carbon brands. Never been a habitual rim dinger, even when racing DH.
Carbon rims don't ding either, they just crack instead.
My replacement Derby's are here, so I will build them up shortly. I'm expecting a 10% increase in speed. Until they crack. Again.
Hob Nob - MemberCarbon rims don't ding either, they just crack instead.
Or rather, most of the time they do nothing at all.
I went with a discounted pair of deemax I found in the end. If they can hack it at 25psi I might look at carbon down the road but if not then it's a better way to find out I need to run higher pressures.
My 35mm 29er rim came in at 395g - I asked for a light one, hope that wasn't a mistake! Combined with my carbon fat rim, 660g trimmed off. I was raped by customs, £37 for 1 rim :((
saw these, thought of this thread 😆
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http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y394/dansipods2/ScreenShot2014-07-29at193959_zps886e8cc3.pn g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Anyone know how much altogether for 2 hookless 35mm 650b rims inc imp duty?
Cheers
Duty varies, and as they price in dollars it'll depend on your FX rates too. Assume c£35 for fees, not hard to work out everything else.
Just about to buy spokes and nipples for my 29er XC LB rims.
Rose bikes have a warning on the DT alloy nipples not to be used on rims without eyelets - is this true - can they be used on these rims?
Never heard that before- I've seen factory wheelsets with alu nipples on eyeletless rims. A corrosion thing?
Never heard that before. I'm running DT alu on mine.
Alu galls quite badly IIRC, so I guess a soft alu nipple in a soft alu rim is a bad idea without the harder eyelet inbetween. No idea about carbon. Can't see how it could be corrosion unless the alloys are vastly different?
There is something about corrosion with steel spokes and alloy nipples with the carbon rims - mentioned lots at mtbr for some reason. I guess alu seatposts seize in steel frames so maybe related. I bought brass nips anyway, tiny weight gain.
thisisnotaspoon - Member
Can't see how it could be corrosion unless the alloys are vastly different?
I was thinking more of normal corrosion causing extra problems- glomming the parts together- rather than electrode stuff from dissimiliar metals. Only thing I can really think of tbh!
Alloy nipples on steel spokes and carbon rims built up without ti-prep or Linseed are likely to corrode at an increased rate vs the same alloy nips on alloy rims. No need for eyeleted rims with DT alloy nipples, just stay away from super light rims with tissue thin spoke beds.
DP.
I've waded through a lot of this thread but got lost in the detail so am asking "what should I get?"
My use case is:
* do-anything steel 29er HT
* I ride moderately quick XC through to moderate trail (like say CYB blacks or BPW reds or natural trails), if I ever do a BPW style black or serious rock garden it's mince-core style, pick your way, not warp speed DH.
* I weight 76kg in my birthday suit, I don't huck or jump more than a few inches but I'm not a super light rider either
* usually 2.25 or 2.3 Spesh tyres on Rebas but I want to be able to run 2.35 HDs without the silly light bulb profile
* tubeless always
Currently I have a set of Crests and a set of Arch Ex, what I'm looking for is, as someone describes earlier in the thread "Crest weight with Flow width" type of thing, tho wider is OK if it works and fits. Would the 29mm internal width ones come up "too wide" for general use.
What should I get, and just rims (I don't have great confidence in my LBSs for building unfortunately, I'm more likely to get attitude back for not buying 800 quid Enves than I am a careful and considerate service), or built wheels?
The final aim: one wheel set to rule them all, fit and forget, except for putting the HDs on when I'm off somewhere rocky. My usual riding is Surrey Hills, year round.
What would you get?
Phew! Ta.
that post was much too long and fair beans for it being ignored
so I ask - which 29er set up to get "Flow width and Crest weight"?
ta
so I ask - which 29er set up to get "Flow width and Crest weight"?
[url= http://www.light-bicycle.com/bead-hook-less-rims-carbon-29er-light-bike-rim-tubeless-compatible.html#.U96NUmOpefs ]These[/url] are 5g lighter than a Crest, and 0.6mm narrower than a Flow. [url= http://www.light-bicycle.com/35mm-wide-29er-rims-beadless-for-bicycle-trail-or-mountain-bike-enduro-with-tubeless-compatibility.html#.U96M8mOpefs ]These[/url] are wider and heavier than a Flow, but obviously much tougher.
I've got the former, also a Surrey Hills rider, but the lighter spectrum - on a 19lb carbon XC hardtail. They've been flawless though.
These are 5g lighter than a Crest, and 0.6mm narrower than a Flow. These are wider and heavier than a Flow, but obviously much tougher.I've got the former, also a Surrey Hills rider, but the lighter spectrum - on a 19lb carbon XC hardtail. They've been flawless though
Old Flow 29" was quoted as 525g, new Flow Ex 29" is quoted as 545g. The LB 35mm rim is quoted as 420g +/- 15g with real reviews coming out at 395g.
Quite a bit lighter than even the lighter than any of the flows and almost down at Crest weight.
Yep, recollection fail on the weight of the Flow, I'm thinking Crest weights 😳
Thx - Stans site says a Flow is 29.1mm external width, 25.5mm internal (and a Crest 24.4mm and 21mm). The first LB is 27mm external 22mm internal, so I make that only 1mm wider internally than my Crests (not enough to be worth a switch). Am I missing something?
A Flow is 22.6mm, a Flow Ex is 25.5, but as I was getting the weights all wrong then I'd definitely get the wider ones.
Ah soz, I hadn't realised there were 2 Flow models.
The wider ones are the same weight as Arch Ex, which I also have and am happy with.
Best ponder a bit ...
Btw for those going with the 'wide' rims you might find you have frame tolerance issues. I only just can fit a 2.25 RR in the back of my scale only a couple of mm spare each side.
Rims still going strong couple of big scratches now. Enve stickers look a little worse for wear.
I went for the original wider hooked rim. Much wider than my Crests, similar ERD so I literally just swamped the rims. They were 10g lighter each and seem very strong.
The width is a worry.
Currently running 2.25" Smorgasbords on 21mm internal rims and looking at the 35mm rims with 30mm internal. Have currently got about 10mm clearance.
I run the same tyres on 21 and 29mm internals difference is about 0.5mm don't worry about it 29 x 2.35 hans dampfs . Hype in my opinion as the profile and width are so minimal. It's not akin to to running the likes of 2 and 2.25 tyres. You can however utilise lower tyre pressures presuming the tyre walls are up to it
cool, cheers Moda
I can measure tomorrow if you want another comparison, I've got a 2.3 Butcher on a LB 33mm and on a relatively skinny Roval. The difference isn't going to be much though ime, based on measurements I did with other rims.
I can measure tomorrow if you want another comparison, I've got a 2.3 Butcher on a LB 33mm and on a relatively skinny Roval. The difference isn't going to be much though ime, based on measurements I did with other rims.
yeah that would be dead handy, I have those tyres, thx'
perhaps though the difference is more about profile than width
I have a bit of a concern with the 33mm being, well just too damn big.
it does feel as if there is a bit of a gap in the LB product range here
Hype in my opinion as the profile and width are so minimal.
interesting POV
this makes sense to me http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html
I wasn't trying to say there is a massive difference, but it is wider and if you already have tight tolerance you may end up closer than you like. Of course you can always go for a smaller tyre....
I would say it is more than .5mm but can't be sure as didn't measure beforehand
Just to update this thread, I've been running the 26" 33mm wide AM rims for the past 9 months or so on my mojo HD.
Tonight I whacked the rear wheel into a water bar (coming down shining tor near the cat and fiddle - if anyone knows it) rather clumsily, and cracked the rim in two places.
I was running tubeless at the time, and running at a decent pressure (30psi),but after the crack, they wouldnt hold air, so I put a tube in and finished off the rest of the ride. The rims held up fine for the remainder of the ride, but they're definitely a write off.
Pinched my rear at the 'ard rock enduro hard enough to cut two big snakebite holes into the tyre but rim seems to be OK, need to have a proper look though. Replacement tyre sealed up OK anyway.
@mattjg, I haven't forgotten, just not been out to the bikes! Will get on it
Right, have ordered a fully built 33mm wide 26inch hookless downhill wheel to replace the 33mm wide 26 inch hooked all mountain rim I broke last night.
Hopefully it will be up to the job, if this one breaks, then itll probably be back to alu rims for me, or maybe perfect my waterbar jumping skills.
I'm confused a bit by the wide rim thing being so much better.
the mavic enduro wheels run a 19mm wide rear rim as per testing with Nico and Fabien.
When I raced DH I always ran 721 rims as opposed to 729s as the square tyre profile from a wider rim made leaning the bike over in corners harder.
The narrow rim gave a rounder tyre profile and made off-camber and cornering more predictable.
Has this changed somehow with new tyres?
I don't think it makes that much difference, personally. (always seems to me that the people who get most excited about it, are using tyres with bad edges, so flattening them out a bit makes them work more like they should.) More volume is good though on balance, imo. General use tyres have got wider in the time I've been riding, I used to get a lot of comments about my 2.35s but now that's pretty standard (actual 2.35s that is, not Maxxis 2.35s!)
Nico doesn't test for Mavic as far as I know, he's been testing SRAM wheels which have been going wider. Barel seems to be into narrow rear thing but lots of Mavic pros aren't- they had a wee production line going rebuilding Enduro rears with front rims at the EWS. (though I'd guess this is for strength rather than width- the whole "weaker on the rear" concept being pretty dubious. Certainly Cedric was getting his done for strength)
I think Mavic had to cut the width to drop the weight but attempt to keep the strength, didn't work by the sound of it! They certainly look odd on the back of a chunky 6" bike.
goodgrief - Member
I think Mavic had to cut the width to drop the weight but attempt to keep the strength, didn't work by the sound of it! They certainly look odd on the back of a chunky 6" bike.
Not sure on that - their new Crossmax XL WTS are 90g lighter than the SX, and 2mm wider internally, so the Enduros being narrower wasn't all about weight.
OK, at Mattjg- short answer, don't worry about the extra tyre width.
Long answer... This is an LB 33mm (26mm ID according to LB but I think that's for the hooked version, the hookless is presumably wider ID?) vs a Roval Traversee EL's 22mm ID. Both tyres with Butcher Control 2.3s on 'em.
The important number for frame clearance is probably the tyre width at the knobbles, as that's where they frame's generally tightest. And the difference is .3 of a mm! 57.2 on the LB vs 56.9 on the Roval.
There's more difference to the actual carcass though. On the Roval, it's 55.8mm, actually narrower than the knobs. On the LB it's 58.2
Oh, and in terms of tyre shape, I can't actually see any difference. Couldn't think of any way to measure it. Perhaps height drop from the centre to the edge blocs? But that's a bit unintuitive.
Not sure on that - their new Crossmax XL WTS are 90g lighter than the SX, and 2mm wider internally, so the Enduros being narrower wasn't all about weight.
so, stronger without gaining weight.
TBF I think the Enduro wheelsets were mostly about getting a new product out with minimum r&d. One wheel off an SX, one wheel off a crossmax, paint off a deemax, ENDURO! Other than the 650b revision it's all old, good parts.
XL looks a more impressive product on paper but I'm curious how strong they turn out- the SX was strong but denty, going lighter and stretching the metal further usually means losing more strength but you never know, it might just be better engineered...
4 mates have new crossmaxes, all race at ukge and other enduros, of the 4; 1 rim failure and 3 hub failures(axles split) all warrantied but no fun waiting for replacements
Northwind - MemberSX was strong but denty
Really? I've hammered mine and not a mark on them.
OK, at Mattjg- short answer, don't worry about the extra tyre width.
Ta, I'll read through the detail.
On my N9, a Crest with a 2.25 Nic has 8mm clearance at the chain stays (will vary a bit with slider position).
Up front a have a Reba, 2.3 Purgatory on a Crest too. 10mm clearance.
This is Surrey set up, in proper rocky place mode, I'd probably put the Purg out back and a Butcher up front.
Oh, and in terms of tyre shape, I can't actually see any difference.
Maybe this requires rider weight on the wheel to kick in, or cornering side forces.
I look up the weights btw (all for a 29er):
Crest, 21mm internal, 365 grams
LB 30mm internal, they say 420 grams +/- 15
Arch Ex 21mm internal, 460 grams
Flow Ex 25mm internal, 545 grams.
So the LB is coming out half way between Crest and Arch Ex. I have some Arch Ex that I ride sometimes, I never noticed them feeling heavy.
more stickered up ENVE rims
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http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y394/dansipods2/AE14D603-EA48-45B2-90E8-5E3D27EA42B8_zpsvg2fyslh.pn g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
They have these new ones that are coming out 10 Sep. I like that the bead is nice and thick.
Rim Size: 26-inch/26er mountain bike
Rim Construction: Tubeless, Carbon fiber
Rim Depth: 32mm
Width: External: 38 mm, Internal: 31 mm
Rim weight: 420g+/-15 for All mountain; 480g+/-15 for Downhill
[url= http://www.light-bicycle.com/carbon-MTB-26er-downhill-DH-bike-rims-tubeless.html#.VAYcsdm9LCQ ]New LB rim[/url]
I'm thinking the new Schwalbe procore system could be ideal for prolonging the life of carbon rims. Along with all the other reported benefits I'm definitely interested in trying them
Do any of you ride these LB rims in the peaks? Really tempted with some 35 wide hookless for my 29er stumpy to save a bit of weight.
Only thing holding me back is how they'd hold up with constant impact strikes. For those of you who have the hookless 35 wider rim how are you finding them and how are they holding up?
Have anyone of you had full pro2 builds from LB and how much did they come to with charges .etc?
Thanks
Do any of you ride these LB rims in the peaks? Really tempted with some 35 wide hookless for my 29er stumpy to save a bit of weight.
See my post further up there, but I destroyed a 26 inch 33mm wide rim in macc forest (well shining tor actually) in two places . Whacked it on a water bar.
A mate destroyed a mavic on one of those water bars just last week and I ruined a stans rim as well.
I flatted the other day on a very rocky descent, could not stop for about 15 meters and all the time the rim was running on a flat tyre. Rim survived and it is fine. I don't believe a alloy rim would have lived.
I have to add that it had survived 9 months of peak/antur/welsh riding up until the water bar on shining tor killed it.
I have ordered a hookless downhill version to replace it, if that gets destroyed then its back to alu rims for me.