[Closed] Large rider - what's best single pivot or multi link?

Single pivots can be multi link and multi bearings too just to confuse things.

Different linkages work differently and feel different so well worth trying a few different things just to see how it goes

No riding God here, I found single pivot great (I am a smooth pedalling God tho) and the horror of multiple tiny bearings needing replaced regularly may have biased me.

Folk get obsessed about how the pedalling feels, truth is it absorbs very little energy and who's racing to the top anyway?

Was at the larger end of the scale (100kg-ish) and my last two bikes have been VPP (Pivot Mach 5.7, SC Tallboy 2) because I prefer the way that the suspension is delivered on a multi-link bike vs a single pivot. No problems with my weight, although I set the suspension up a little softer than I should to make it a bit more plush, with the expectation that I may bottom out from time to time (I'm not a harsh rider, so this virtually never happens).

Am now just over 85kg and heading south trying to get sub-80kg before the summer hols. Now you've reminded me, I should probably recheck my sag on the bike! 🙂

and the horror of multiple tiny bearings needing replaced regularly may have biased me.

Plenty of multi pivot bikes that have well sealed and easy to maintain bearings though. Don't be put off by bearings if they deliver a good ride.

Plenty of multi pivot bikes that have well sealed and easy to maintain bearings though. Don’t be put off by bearings if they deliver a good ride.

^ This. I forgot to mention this in my reply, but swapping bearings on my SC is just a couple of hours' work and costs nowt as they are covered by a lifetime warranty and I know other manufacturers' bikes are similarly simple to swap. I wouldn't even factor it into the decision.

I’m 6.4 bit heavyier than you buddy and can highly recommend a production privee Shan No5. Single pivot, steel and new school geometry to boot. Solid frame with natural flex built in the rear end which makes the grip levels unbelievable I fact crazy levels.

https://www.production-privee.com

Great pricing to for frame only and rolling chassis as they went direct sales in February,

with only 2 gents in Europe one of which is D&D cycles here in the uk based on the south coast.

I'd be looking at the leverage curve not the amount of pivots.

What's the best leverage curve?

Surely the shock set up will be equally important?

Leverage curve? I don't know anyone, from mincers to top level enduro guys that I know, that could tell you such information about their suspension platform.

Leverage curve?

I think it's one for the spreadsheet riders 😉

Go get on some bikes, thinks have moved a long way since a 2014 Alpine!!

I find it best to try bikes, work out what I like in terms of how it rides then think about wheel sizes, pivots and all the rest.

I was thinking on posting the same question, interested in views on this.

My understanding was, with absolutely no science to back it up, that you wanted something with a low leverage ratio - so basically something with a relatively long shock travel compared to modest rear wheel travel.

Does that make sense?

Strewth, I am not an engineer!

Back in the day, I am sure elsworth were one fo the few that seems to have this. Pretty hideous linkage unfortunately...

Leverage curve and chain growth  are what I look at.

TBH at your weight, you should be looking at frame stength and stiffness before suspension type.

Go get on some bikes, thinks have moved a long way since a 2014 Alpine!!

I'd love to know how, in terms of rear suspension.

big-scot-nanny I think that is generally perceived as a "good thing" in terms of not over working a shock.

I’d love to know how, in terms of rear suspension.

1) Because suspension is only part of the bike and the bits that wrap around it are very important

2) SC for instance have had 2 evolution's of VPP in that time, bringing different traits from the DH bikes into the trail bikes - for instance

3) Orange have probably moved the shock a couple of times too

No correlation.  Make decision based on other criteria.

I've ridden single pivots which were great, I've ridden some which were horrid on different models trom the same (and different) manufacturer. Ditto linkage bikes.

What works for you will not necessarily work for someone else and just because you like vpp on the tallboy doesn't mean you won't find a nomad to be a pig.

I'm afraid there is no rule to guide you.

The one thing you should definitely be looking for is a low leverage rate, so a long shock stroke for the amount of travel the bike has. This will increase the amount of damping at the middle settings, thus making it suit your weight better, and reduce the risk of the shock overheating on long descents.

For instance a Banshee Spitfire is 140mm travel with a 200x57 shock, so that’s 57mm stroke, giving an average leverage rate of 2.45 which is low-ish. I’d avoid anything close to or over 3 and the closer to 2, the better.

I think it’s one for the spreadsheet riders

pretty important when choosing a shock, damping adjustments, spring rate or air pressure etc  depends how much you research the bike I suppose.  some people it will be important for others not so much.  It does have an effect on how the bike rides just like chain growth, pedal kickback, anti squat.

  It does have an effect on how the bike rides just like chain growth, pedal kickback, anti squat.

It does but it can also be your magic number and the bike be crap, the number might not look right but it could work too. I'd rather do my testing on the bike rather than on paper and I certainly wouldn't be ruling things out because of it either.

I didn't say not test a bike

I'd ride a few and just get what you like.

Provided it a isn't silly light race orientated thing it should be fine frame wise, then look at the wheels.

I'm 110Kg and ride a 2007 santacruz superlight, 2013 Ibis Mojo SLR and most recently 2017 NS Snabb+ in 29" mode..

All are geat (Cannock is my regular too) but the NS is my go to bike now as it is so solid and non flexy.

Mojo feels a little cramped and the SL put away untl I lose weight - more for nostalgic reasoning tbh, as it doesn't ride as well as either of the other two, despite being a couple of lb lighter than the Mojo and 4lb lighter than the NS.

Rode the Mojo for about 18 months in all weathers round Cannock. Got pretty messy and full of sand/clay from off piste stuff yet never required anything more than one strip down and clean of the bearings.

The SC had it's pivots bushings wear quite quickly and the NS is too new to need attention yet.

If you are going to 29", I'd be more concerend about wheels tbh. I bought some from here that were factory fit on an Orange P7 and whilst they were a good buy and exactly as expected and described, they flexed a bit and had to be re-tensioned before giving me any confidence.

Have just bought some DT EX511 rims on Hope Pro 4 hubs and they feel loads better - would reccomend them for heavier riders.

I wouldn’t even factor it into the decision.

You really should though. It’s definitely worth knowing in advance if a bike is using some proprietary, double row, axle eating setup or not. Most multi pivots you’d expect to be fine, some are still a bit daft in this area

As a gentleman of a larger size.... 118kgs, i've not had a problem with bearings on my specialized frames. Stumpy and Enduro in various iterations. I've broken frames (cracks, not stacks) but the bearings have been fine mostly.

The longer shock stroke will allow a greater sensitivity IMHE and adjustability, but not to the extent where i would avoid any particular frame. Over time,aluminium will stress and crack (they all have) and as such the warrattee would be my first point of reference. Specialized used to be great at this, but not so much anymore.

You'll probably notice flex in a frame, more than any particular shock fettling, so long as its a good shock to begin with. You may also need to set it up outside of the regular range of adjustment, so something with good range.

My CaneCreek DB coil, has resisted all attempts to destroy it so far, and provides amazing adjustability and performance. Coil front and back for a big fella.

Thanks for all your replies guys, I really appreciate them.