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out of interest n all that... how much would you expect to pay bike shop mechanic?
Packet of biscuits.
Easiest job ever - even I can do it
Arriving with a stripped frame?
£10-£20.
They can be right gits to get out, even with the right tools.
Bring it around to me and I'll do it for the price of 2 choccy hob nobs and a cup of team in the time it takes a kettle to boil...
I would expect a decent shop to be charging at least £25 an hour with a half hour minimum time.
Knock them out yourself with a length of wooden dowling and get the bikeshop to press in your new headset cups.
convenience and all that but...recently I bought the tool myself for under £10 and got one out of a 10 year old frame in under 5 minutes. No screwdriver drifts used either! Pressing in the new was very easy with a DIY headset press bought on ebay for less than the remover tool.. it can be done on the cheap!
You can get a proper tool for about £10, all you have to do is hit it with a hammer.
Old seatpost always works for me
I've done it before with a borrowed mate's tool and was the easiest job ever so was wondering on that basis.
I needed it taking out quick though so I could send a frame off. I went to Evans 🙄 yesterday last off and the lad I spoke to said they'd just whip it out for me. Same fella wasn't there earlier so they charged me £15 - I don't mind paying it's only 15 notes but as expected just knocked it out no worries. The guy was a bit of a d**k I asked if they sold the tool which they don't and he claimed his cost several hundred pounds - yeah mate course it did.
Confirmed, wiggle have a removal tool on sale for a tenner.
As I'm still thinking about getting my bike powder coated over the winter, does removal damage the cups or can they be reinstalled?
take 2 hard things (one longer than the other, one heavier than the other)
Place long one agains edge of cup.
Tap tap tap.
Chase it off the floor of your garage.
FLip frame over.
Repeat for the top..
DrP
does not damage and they can be reinstalled
A ham fisted job may mark the cups but you cannot see it when installed
Of course if you have an early On-one 456 the removal process is
clamp bottom cup in vice
twist frame back and forth until it's shifted down 5mm
use traditional removal method
On a Ti frame I ended up doing somethign similar with an FSA pig headset that someone had fitted with no grease so corrosion had jammed it in - took nearly two hours 'cos I was worried I'd damage the frame clamping it and ****ting the removal tool with a sledge hammer.
A ham fisted job may mark the cups but you cannot see it when installed
Genuine question..as long as the bearing seating surface is fine (which it will be, if you're tapping the inner lip) then why would a small mark/chip matter?
DrP
Or put a toestrap or something through the headstock to stop the cups flying off.Chase it off the floor of your garage.
Genuine question..as long as the bearing seating surface is fine (which it will be, if you're tapping the inner lip) then why would a small mark/chip matter?DrP
The clearances are pretty tight.
I had issues with an oft removed hope cut that had mushroomed ever so slightly
That was catching on the gentle taper to the crown race.
A big Nick would cause similar and might* possibly even score the steererif ignored?
*Based on nothing
The cost of a metal curtain pole (removal tool) and hacksaw blades, about 3 quid, handy if you already have them!
Local bike shop (Cycle-tec) charged me £10 to tap out old ones and install new ones. Did whilst I waited - outstanding service
nice longish (mine's about 3ft) steel tube with the normal cross-cut flare at the end
Once it's insertted and butted up against the cup, turn frame upside down and bang the free end of your tube on the floor (or an old wooden block if you worry about the floor)
Obviates clamping in vices etc and minmises shock through the frame, since you're holding it.
& hold a carrier bag or a rag over the end to catch the cup on its way out