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Turns out I've been riding my cheaply built charge filter cx bike the most over the last year - for mixed commutes, as a winter road bike and for mixed on/off road loops over the summer.
It's a fun bike but it's heavy, partly cos it's tell and partly because the wheelset weighs about 2.5kg. It's got discs but 130mm spacing which pretty much precludes getting new lighter wheels.
On the road it's definitely considerably more sluggish than my "nice" bike (genesis zero) and I like to be going quickly if I'm on the dark side.
So wondering how the pro 6 frame set with one of the kinesis or hunt cx wheel sets would stack up as a fast winter roadie / non racing cx bike. I'm not touring and I'm not worried about mud guards etc. am I going to end up with a much harsher ride than the steel frame?
Can't you normally squeeze 135mm spaced wheels in? Should be relatively cheap to get a wheelset with some fast rubber for well under 2Kg.. I wouldn't write that off as an option if everything else is all right.
its a great bike, but ive been disappointed in the paint job, hasnt stood up well to winter commutes. I had to commute on this when my old spesh commuter frame cracked.
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Kinesis are releasing a 4S disc if your planning on staying on-road. Otherwise the Pro6 would be pretty good, know a few people using them as their winter bike.
I looked at the pro6. Great frame/fork. I went for a Chinese carbon one though in the end. Cheaper, lighter and rides brilliantly.
I replaced my Croix de Fer frame with a Pro6 frame at the end of last year for commuting, winter training, touring, Audax. It works well, and it doesn't rust.
I wasn't sure if I could squeeze a 135 in, I had a half hearted go with an old mtb 26 wheel but I didn't try very hard! Maybe worth asking my lbs to have a go?
I definitely want off road capability rather than just winter road use but it would be nice to feel like I could take my winter bike on club runs. It's sometimes hard enough to hang on to my roadie mates with the carbon bike, I've never added the extra disadvantage the charge represents!
I have a 56/57 f&f I need to move on if anyone is interested
i have a charge filter, and i use a 135mm rear hub, i just forced the rear stays apart by hand until they were the correct width. it takes more force than you might imagine, but is doable. i think most of the excess weight comes from the forks, have you seen how thick the steerer is at the bottom?
my wheels are dmr revolver rear hub, which is 135mm olnd, mavic cxp33 rims, laced up with dt stainless db spokes.
dunno if they are that much lighter than the standard ones, but they look a lot better and have stayed true over the last 1000 miles no problem.
i built them myself, the front hub is a sun ringle one that a mate had lying around.
a good shop would probably reset the rear end for you for a nominal fee.
its a great bike, but ive been disappointed in the paint job, hasnt stood up well to winter commutes
Kinesis paint is shite and well known as such. For me it's the only downside of my pro6
I like mine so much I may get another , just to have mudguards on one of them.
Wet and dry.
Mine is my main bike these days,commutes ,cx adventures etc
Mine is good. At the end of the cross season I stick 28mm slicks on and use it as a winter roadie to get fit for the road race season. Find it comfortable, good geometry/handling and it has never slowed me down in chain gangs and the like. Ride quality is good, but that is compared to a racing road bike on 23mm tyres. anything with 28mm tyres feels more forgiving.
Mine is about to enter its third winter and I was looking at repainting options as the paint is definitely showing its age. Looks expensive to repaint the frame and forks compared to a steel bike. Luckily I have the black one so some model paints will probably be used to touch up the worst areas.