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I have a 2012 YT wicked frame. fourbar horst link etc.
http://linkagedesign.blogspot.fr/2012/01/young-talent-wicked-2012.html
is that first table antisquat? i assumed it was...
the bike came originally with a triple crankset it seems.
I am currently running a 30t ring and am finding the pedal bob quite annoying. i do have full lockout with the shock, but terrain is not always suitable to be locked out, ie i sometimes need to stand up and mash on the pedals with shock in open.
the pivot by the chairing is a good bit inside the radius of the chainring. so my thinking is, going to a smaller chainring should help things, ie 28t. any smaller would be ridiculous.
so, given the radius of chainring would be getting closer to the pivot location, that should help anti squat right? or perhaps the difference will be negligeable, and i'd have to be rolling around with a 22t ring before it got any better...?
Negligible - it’s designed around a triple with minimal bob in the granny ring.
I think you are right, but the difference will be small. Do you get the same bob when sitting down and pedalling hard? If not it is probably just your body mass moving rather than squat. I think.
Any anti-squat in the suspension will be bigger with a smaller chainring. I would explain this as that in a given gear, your chain tension will be greater and so any effects from it will be also*. So going from a 30 to a 28 would change it by 2/30, which is not a great deal.
*well not exactly, because when you are in a gear ratio other than 1:1 the chain angle relative to your chainstay will be less with a smaller ring. I think this means that the changes in effect when you change gear are independent of chainring size, but I am getting a bit arm-wavy here. This is all a bit hypothetical as with a 2t change you will not be able to get exactly the same ratios, you will just be changing between the same cogs at different places on the trail.
ok yep, what i was thinking.
so probably, any gain in anitsquat from the smaller ring, would still be overpowered by my bodyweight bouncing things up and down.
so a better solution might be to go to a shock with more options, like a firm lock, a 'trail' setting with a good amount of platform, and open?
Not mashing up and down on the pedals with the shock open would make more difference than dropping the chain ring two teeth.
Actually, getting the shock custom tuned would probably make more difference than the chain ring as well.
yep thanks. don't get me wrong; i'm not a masher! far from it.
but i do 4 or 5 sprints on the way up the first climb of my loop. that's when it bothers me, as for some of them i 'need' the shock open
Until very recently, I rode a horst link Turner 6 pack up and down anything and everything I could. Again, this 2005 model was designed around a triple. It came with a coil shock which was always open. Modifying my pedalling technique did make a significant difference.
With a lower gear, most stuff could be tackled from the saddle with only the occasional hover over the top of it.