[Closed] Just pushed my headset in by hand...

Enter worlds strongest man

Hmm. I'd be getting a second opinion on that. headset cups should be tighter than that.

Try a few headsets. Some might have a better / bigger tolerance for your frame.
My experience of mojo frames QC is not exactly great though - might be worth dropping them an email and seeing what they say.

How easy is it to pull out? is there any play or movement? If its firmly in place I wouldn't worry about it.

Haha, if only!

I've read before that Chris King are one of the smaller/ looser headsets, but while I'm sure they're still within tolerance, I certainly wasn't expecting that!
Fitted a similar headset into the BLTc I had previously & it was damn tight.

There's no play, the top cup is tight but with a lot of effort I can get the bottom cup out again.

I'm afraid I'm not the first owner so won't get any warranty cover unfortunately.

Will see if I can track down a cane creek or something else, see if it's a better fit.

It's bought my new build to a very early halt...

I've fitted 2 CK headsets into HD3 mojos and I can't say either would have gone in by hand. They've needed a pressing tool, but it's not required as much force as some others I've put into different frames.

It might be worth an email to 'ask chuck' and see what they reckon. You usually get an excellent response in 24h or less.

Did you use any grease?

My new Sanderson bottom cup (OO Smoothie) went in witha really firm, body weight shove. I could just about rotate it by hand when in, but it wouldn't come out.

Try some of this maybe....

http://www.gerrysfishing.com/maver-carbon-graphite-spray.ir

It's used for building up spigots on carbon fibre rods. It wears off over time because rods are always being taken apart. Maybe spray the inside of the headtube & see what happens.

No grease used, wasn't even prepared for them to go in to be honest, was just making sure everything was clean & lined up ok & to see wether it would need any grease. Next thing I know their fully seated!

I'll send Ibis & 2Pure a message & see what they say.

It's possible you've got a CK headset at the lower end of the tolerance scale and a mojo that's on the upper end.

Do you know what headset the original owner had in there? Being carbon it could be there's been something very tight in there, and now you've got something that's supposedly a proper fit, that the frame has been left a little wider than original.

Other possibility is the original owner has done a gash job at some point and had the headtube reamed out to remove some scuffs or damage.

I wouldn't expect it to be an issue once the fork is in and the headset has a decent preload applied. My main concern would be it creaking a little if it's not a snug fit. This should be eliminated with some grease.

...& I've just managed to pull the top cup back out as well.

Think I'll contact 2pure.

Cheers for the tip essel, will bear it in mind.

Hi Bramble,

The frame hasn't been abused, it was barely used when I bought it. It's also still got the seal coat inside the headtube, if it had been reamed then I think I'd expect to see & feel raw fibres on the surface.
Will try to find out about the previous headset, bummer I can't use the new CK though...

FSA Pig while not exactly high end is usually a touch bigger on the tolerances

Cheers Klunky,

It may come to something like this unfortunately, due to the lack of warranty.

The Ibis site does say "You may use several different Cane Creek headsets or the Chris King InSet 2 headset", so it's a little disappointing that it doesn't fit, especially as that's the one I've bought on the strength of this advice & currently have nothing else that will fit.

Worst case, you could fit the headset with some bearing fit or similar (loctite 638 is particularly good for this type of application where shocks and vibrations are going to occur). Once it's in and cured, then is not going to move. Make sure to coat the inside of the head tube and the outside of the headset so there's a generous quantity to fill all the carbon surface. You should be able to get it back out one day (hopefully never needed), but you'll need to work at it a bit!

638 will take some shifting as it is a high strength retaining compound, usually requires heat as well.

This ^ bearing retainer for the win. Fit and forget it

I've pushed a Hope headset in to a Soul before by hand before without even having to force it.

Does it even matter once it's all nipped up and preloaded? I can't imagine the cup would move in the frame in preference to the bearings moving?

try sourcing a headset with a deeper insertion depth (check to see how deep your head tube has been reamed to make sure it will fit without bottoming out).

Often a deeper insertion headset combined with loctite bearing fit compound will cure this kind of issue.

Enter worlds strongest man

Best buy him a drink first though.

638 will come out as the 'substrate' carbon is uneven and the headset is so smoothly machined (and anodised). You will need a decent remover and the frame held securely. It's not like it's going to weld it together!

I had a lower cup that was rotating in a carbon frame in use. It needed pressing in and hammering out so it was definitely a tight fit. The frame was new and was changed under warranty without question. I couldn't find much info on similar problems but did read that it could cause wear and get worse. I would look at bearing fit but more likely use some carbon assembly paste although the manufactures don't recommend it but I have some in the garage.

it's just going to move about when being ridden and damage the frame. It might be possible to use a liquid shim.

http://www.rdr-aerospace.co.uk/magnoliaShims.html

Try a different headset. I've just fitted 2 different lower cups to a kinesis frame- one pushed in by hand the other needed a vice. I am surprised though- ck headset and mojo frame must gave been done 1000s of times.

bearnecessities
Best buy him a drink first though.

My tiny little mind didn't work that out until I chuckled three posts later.