So I built up a late 80s Galaxy. Threw 4 small panniers on the racks and did a weekender in Cumbria kind of followed the Hadrian's way route.
Loved it!
The bike was great but...
Need to adjust or upgrade cantilevers to v's (literally could stop the bike ona few steep ones)
The 28/28 lowest gear was heavy going at times
I don't have a lot of confidence in the old wheelset.
...so I thought I'd get a set built and this would also allow me to put a modern/larger cassette on.
BUT before I shell out a few hundred quid, is this old frame worth it? Just how durable/robust are these galaxy frames?
Were they designed for proper touring or were they a regular steel bike just marketed for touring?
The only thing I can't get around is they can only fit a 32mm tyre (with guards).
Other option is to sell and get something bombproof like the Thorn’s or truckers (second hand)
They are a proper touring bike but will only ever fit 42mm tyres as you point out. Up to you how much of an issue that is, fine for road and gravel tracks. Ian Hibell managed some tough tours on narrow tyres. People blame their bikes too much for their own limitations.
For quite a long time through the late 80's and into the middle 2000's they were THE go-to tourer - you can probably argue that both ways in that there wasn't a right lot else on the market at that price and there was very little choice outside of custom builds or that they were exceptional value / great bikes etc...!
I worked in the original Evans Cycles on The Cut in Waterloo that specialised for a while in touring bikes - the Dawes Galaxy range and the own brand F W Evans bikes and the Dawes were generally pretty easy to sell; decent kit on them, good price. I know of at least a couple that did major cross-continent tours.
The problem now is that they're a very dated design - there's so much available in modern touring with vastly more options for racks, mounts, bags etc coupled with wider tyres, disc brakes, stronger/stiffer/lighter frames. This for example:
https://alpkit.com/collections/sonder-santiago
Of course back then there was a very limited range of cassettes too, usually only going up to 28 or so which required a triple chainset, canti brakes are total pants when trying to haul a loaded tourer to a stop but for the quintessential 1970's British rose-tinted view of touring - big canvas tent, lashings of ginger beer - they're very much the bike that springs to mind!
In terms of durability, there will still be Dawes Galaxy frames lying around when the earth is reduced to ashes; in terms of riding feel, there's far better out there now.
They were (are?) the quintessential touring bike. Galaxy or Super Galaxy - I forget if it was just the kit or the frame material that changed too. Is this one a 501 or 531 frame? Galaxys were very much from the era that touring = road with a very light amount of canal tow path style off road, nothing more rad.
Vs...might need to check that out - it might be its mini Vs you need. I seem to remember Vs needed too much lever travel to work properly - there are noodles type things to try to get around it but something like the avid minis give you all the stopping you need.....provided they are setup right and that's a rapidly fading skillset.
Is it worth spending loads to upgrade - hard to work out. It will only ever be a canti/v braked relatively modest tyre clearance bike with (I think) 130mm QR dropouts. So there is a reasonable chance all your upgrades will not be transferable to something newer later.
But people travelled around world on these, so regrdless they should provide much joy. Personally I think I'd be lightly renovating it in a retro/vintage way rather than trying to make it a version of a modern bike that will always be compromised if that's what you really want.
But people travelled around world on these, so regrdless they should provide much joy. Personally I think I’d be lightly renovating it in a retro/vintage way rather than trying to make it a version of a modern bike that will always be compromised if that’s what you really want.
Very much this ^^
Comparing it to a modern bike is always going to reveal nothing but shortcomings. Remembering what it was designed for will give you a nice retro bike that'll last another 20 years.
The sticker says 531st.
The bike looks ace btw
I’m ok with cantilevers and v brakes all my cx bikes have and still are cantilevers.
Mini v’s may not have clearance for the mudguards (are the arms long enough)
If I get something with a 100percent cassette 34 tooth would my current down tube shifter be ok with the extra teeth (it’s currently 6speed). Obviously need a longer rear mech
I guess I’m most concerned if the frame’s hardy enough. Don’t want to spend money on wheels and the frame cracks if fully loaded and used a lot.
I had a Super Galaxy Tandem and speak from experience 🙂
The sticker says 531st
ST is a thicker-walled touring tube, ideal for the job
I’m ok with cantilevers and v brakes all my cx bikes have and still are cantilevers
Cantis aren't considered as powerful, but if you get the straddle wire length right and a decent set of brake blocks then you should be fine. Get a fork crown up-hanger at the front to avoid brake judder
https://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html
snip...would my current down tube shifter be ok with the extra teeth (it’s currently 6speed)
It's just a lever, no clicknology I'm assuming, so as long as it has movement it'll move the derailleur 5, 6, 7, whatever, without a problem
Lovely bike I would keep it classic, I have a 90s tourer, v happy with its limitations as have many happy memories, it's been everywhere.
Get some classic panniers, toe clips and enjoy it.
Got some nice Karrimor panniers😉 (it looks great)
I used to lust after the Dawes Galaxy.
Ended up doing 65,000 miles on a CroMo Trek 520 instead.
The Galaxt is of its time - from a background of club runs and big mileage days out.
The position is very stretched, with a long top tube, long quill stem and a low bar position.
Not the best setup by modern standards.
So - as above, keep it as a classic, but don't let it hold you back from modern adventures.
PS: if you want inspiration, check out the Roughstuff Archive on Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/rsfarchive/
It'll be a great bike and pretty capable, I have a Holdsworth record from the mid 70's as a tourer and it's a lovely ride. Ok as a gravel bike too, it is limited in tyre width though. It's 531 plain guage, 531st is for super tourist iirc, but it will be great.
What is the rear drop out spacing? That 'may' limit what you can get in terms of cassette 'speeds' . Mine was originally a 5 speed but the noodly rear allowed me to fit 6 in.
Sheldon brown has good info on updating older bikes. SJS cycles generally has a good selection of kit for older bikes too.
Mine was 27 but I switched to 700c for more tyre and rim choice.
It was my dads from new and I regularly used to rag it round all the local woods and tracks when I got the chance (pre mtb days)!
I am currently tempted to ditch the drops for a straight bar set up, it is such a lovely ride it just feels like what a bike should be like - cruising along, hedges either side, wind in the hair and a light camping set up on the rack for overnighting.
If it's the 531ST, depending on which year it is, it's pretty much the pinnacle of "reasonable cost touring bikes of the second half of the last century".
A friend of mine upgraded from a 531ST Galaxy, which he'd pretty much ridden round the world on, to a full custom, made to measure, spare no expense, Bob Jackson Tourer.
He never sold the Galaxy, as despite everything, it was still his go to bike, and was probably still doing over 5000 miles a year on it
@crazy-legs Were you there when Tom Vernon (of Fat Man on a Bicycle fame) had his Evans frame built?
I retired a 1955 Dawes Debonair in 2012 due to rust. It had spent decades being ridden in all weathers and kept in a tenement wash house and a couple of wooden huts. The head tube had rusted and the guy I gave it to intended to restore it. An 80s Galaxy should be fine unless it was sat on the wrong side of a sea wall for half its life. Take the BB out and check the threads on the BB shell. If they are sound, the rest of the frame should be fine.
I replaced the bars and quill stem for shorter reach units as it was really long.
The fit is really good for me now.
The bloke at spa cycles said he needs to know the measurements for the rear as this will determine what hubs I can have.
So it sounds like it’s tough enough for the job though. Thanks.
If I’m limited to a 28 on the back I could always change to a triple up front as Spa cycles has one with a 24t inner.
Nothing I can do about tyre width.
Running v brake levers on drops isn't a problem if you change to v brake levers which pull more cable. A few options at SJS (£25 up for a pair) or a wanted classified found me some lightly used ones for less.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers-v-brake/
If changing wheels definitely get a cassette hub if you're currently on screw on freewheel. I suffered several broken axles on an old 6 speed tourer. Cassette hubs cured this. I ran a 7 speed cassette from 6 speed friction shifter. Unfortunately bike got flattened by a car 25 years ago.
SJS or Spa cycles are very good for tourer parts.
Enjoy the journey 🙂
Frames in top condition (I don’t think it’s done many miles at all)
Would a triple fox straight on or would it cause any issues with chain lines etc
I had an early 2000 super galaxy for years, gifted it to a mate now but absolutely great bike. Did some big classic road tours, great commuter and a non trivial amount of Chilterns woods and bridleway bashing. Did feel a bit dead as a pure road bike (though that might hav been the Marathon Plus tires which are possibly make of squished up neutron star) but for it's intended purpose absolute star.
Mine was setup with long drop cantis and a mix of tiagra shifters and a full xt triple.
Hub wise you'll get a 135 mtb one if if you wish. older ones may have been built for 5/6 speeds so 126mm and later ones had 130mm . Plenty of give to spring thinsga bit. I just grasp the drop outs in my hands and pull equally.
You won't break it doing this or riding it. The steel will probably be a nicer ride than many modern bikes made of fancy designer steels that are just own brand gas pipe. (Plenty of nice steel about as well of course)
The tyres will be fine. Thats virtually the UCI maximum for Cx racing anyway.
Seeing as we have so many knowlegable types, what's the difference between a Galaxy and a Mirage apart from a couple of components? I've got a mid 70's one that was sold as a Gal but the original paint is pink and blue and the stem anodised black which is consistent with a Mirage. I'm going to get it sorted (eventually) as a light tourer, might put 700C wheels on and take advantage of the clearance.
Have a look in here and see if that gives the right clues.
Loads more Dawes nostalgia at Dawescycles.wordpress.com
I have a 531 Mercian frame I have up on because it didn’t fit
If this bike fits and you like riding it then I’d happily spend money making it work. I think the frame will go on and on.
I'm fairly sure the old Dawes Galaxys are the cockroach of the bicycle world - will still be going strong after Armegeddon
Did a lot of touring in the early 90s and a mate had one of these which I helped maintain. Great bikes for the time and the 531 ride feel was great. Was able to upgrade to 7 speed rear no problem with same shifters.
As above, Sheldon Brown v good for what will / won't fit on bikes that age. Canti's can be good with a crown-mount cable hanger (as poster above) but take some dialling in. Otherwise it is either mini-V's (good stopping but limit mudguards, can be a pain for getting the wheel out if big tyres) OR change the levers as well as the brakes to fit V-brakes. Do NOT try to run v-brakes with the original levers.
If no rust, then it is a good quality frame that will last for ever, so if it fits you, worth the investment. (Yes modern 'better' options are available, but are spendy).
Well adjusted cantis are more powerful than vs. the design was deliberately non linear to allow more force nearer the rim.
Galaxy or Super Galaxy – I forget if it was just the kit or the frame material that changed too
In the 80’s, the only difference was the Supers came with extra kit, like front pannier carriers,a better saddle (leather Brooks?) added braze ons etc.The Galaxy came with a rear rack, that's about it. Of course, a Carradice saddle bag was added to the seat, and later, some clip on carradice panniers. The only time I ever used it for touring was 1984 in Cornwall for a week, otherwise it was a general use/commuting bike. The frame was essentially the same for both, 531 tubing. I got a new one in 83. Kept it until around 93, paid around £200 new in 83, which was around 3.5 weeks wages, sold it for £75. I always remember the bloke who bought it was so happy to find one at a reasonable price.
They do rust internally, BB area has been known to scrap them. Mine had 27” wheels.I was oblivious to 700C, bought a pair,around 92, and couldnt understand why they wouldnt fit on the 27” rims!
I know 531c makes a very nice light springy "steel feeling" frame. So here is how 531st compares in terms of wall thickness if that is of any help.
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I do know someone that had a crash on his old Galaxy due to the steerer snapping at the base - not sure if it was corrosion or fatigue, so just have a good visual inspection in that area.
I think the 531st forks are otherwise pretty strong - framebuilder Tony Oliver's book complained they were overbuilt as a heavy front crash would crumple the down tube and leave the forks untouched.
complained they were overbuilt as a heavy front crash would crumple the down tube and leave the forks untouched.
There is a Claud Butler tourer of 70s vintage of my dad's that suffered exactly this fate at my hands in my teens. I ended up in the hedge via a massive square kerb head on. Ripples in the down tube. Fork unscathed.
First things first, what colour is it and what graphics. Of course it’s 531 ST, and a relatively relaxed frame. I’m have a tandem Super Galaxy from about 1980. It’s a bit whippy but the biggest issue is that the rear axles bend if you overload them. A single, even loaded, won’t get those loads, but a free hub design is better than a freewheel.
Upgrade the brake pads and adjust the straddle wire properly - assuming they are the wise cantis like mine. These are more powerful than Vs, or if you want a little more modern, you’ll need V brake levers for the pull. If it the newer compact cantis, go V.
I’d be tempted for nicer wheels and black mudguards for a restomod, with a quill adaptor for an ahead stem and new bars. And a black seatpost to match. Keep the Brooks B17 😏
BITD I bought a Dawes Horizon from Holdsworth in Putney as I couldn’t afford the Galaxy. Grey 501 frame not hopelessly coveted blue 531. My PhD supervisor had the older green Galaxy. And he commuted every day about 10 miles each way. It’s probably still going, although sadly he is not. And wide not wise cantis.
Thanks. It’s blue with silver Dawes logos/wording. I’ll see if I can find a way to upload a photo later. Thanks btw
Brother & I did 4.5k miles fully loaded touring 40yrs ago on a super galaxy & galaxy, he still has his as his go to bike mine got nicked whilst at uni ☹️ only issues we had were overheating brakes on passes with a lot of hairpin bends.
Happy galaxy memories 🙂
A mate rode his Galaxy from Istanbul to Nordkapp, fully loaded. So I think they're durable 😉
https://flic.kr/p/2oF3jKh
https://flic.kr/p/2oF3FjS
https://flic.kr/p/2oF3rzE
https://flic.kr/p/2oEXmYs
https://flic.kr/p/2oF2bfs
https://flic.kr/p/2oF3muV
https://flic.kr/p/2oF1nYB
https://flic.kr/p/2oF27AD
Nice!
You could start a new trend - packing something along by bike. What do you reckon, maybe call it "bikepacking"?
Appears to be a range of terrain there as well, everything from big rocks to sand so maybe take the average of that, it'd be sort of "gravel" sized.
You're onto something here. 😉
Rear dropouts 130mm and front 100mm
The headsets a bit annoying as it seems to always come loose. If I tighten it more then the steering almost binds.
Lovely bike, NW lakes and Solway?
My SuperG from about the same age is a similar colour, but paint and decals nowhere near as well preserved as yours. A Stronglight triple and an early Deore rear mech give it the hill winch you need loaded. I don’t think that was original spec though as it also has Record hubs and Saturae rims.
If anyone wants one, mine is up for grabs as I haven’t used it since I got a Fargo. Sad to see it at the back of the garage doing nothing.
Now I know there rear dropouts are 130mm. What does this mean in terms of rear wheel options & cassettes
All the options!
130mm was the road standard until discs came along and will fit anything an MTB will fit (dunno about road blocks post-10s as weird things happened with their sizing). Wheel-wise as long as it's rim brakes only then it should fit.
Mine is 120mm (5s) so considerably more limited, might squeeze a 7s in but wouldn't want to stress it any more than that.
So a 105 hub with a 10spd.
That’s cool, I can put a 11-34 on the back and leave the double on. Probably need a new medium or long mech tho.
yeah 130mm is good news, youll also be able to fit a 135mm in there if necessary so lots of options on hubs.
Nice looking bike!
Ive seen some older bikes with aero brake lever/cables, it is a nice looking mod imo. My weinman brake hood are not very comfy in comparison
re the headset, is everything stacked in the correct order? I had a headset that was impossible to get right, turned out something was out of place
Until road bikes went standard on discs and through axles, 130mm had been the standard for decades, so most roadie qr wheels will fit fine, up to 11 speed Shimano, I think. 700c wheels on yours already? Mine is oldie 27x1 1/4”, butwell within the canti adjustment if you swap. If you are going to modernise it, and want triple, I think Tiagra/105 4703/5703 were the last good triples with road STI, but they are 10 speed. You can use a long cage MTB 9 speed rear mech with these as it has the right pull ratio. A trekking triple chainset and 11-36 cassette winch me up most hills. With 11 speed, 11-42 or even more cassette ought to work with a GRX rear mech.
Looks a beaut, lovely pics and panniers look spot on. With 130mm rear hub you could go 9 or 10 speed on some 105 hubs. You'll need new down tube shifters and RD.
130mm is good news - you can still get hubs even up at Ultegra level as non-disc, 130mm, QR. At higher level, Hope, Royce and White Industries all make such hubs. Best bet is a touring specialist like SJS:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rear-hubs-road-cassette/?page=5
10sp road cassette so you may even squeeze a 36T on there although 34T is probably a safer bet. A 10sp long cage road mech or a 9sp MTB mech will all work.
The headsets a bit annoying as it seems to always come loose. If I tighten it more then the steering almost binds.
Serious question, do you know how to adjust a threaded headset?
Second, are all the parts parallel to each other and seated properly?
Are all the bits there?
Would a square taper mtb triple work?
Would a square taper mtb triple work?
If you get the right length bottom bracket and a suitable front mech, yes.
I've seen them with XT triple chainsets back in the 8 speed days.
I had a Super Galaxy Tandem and speak from experience 🙂
We toured France on one of those bitd. It was ace. Really comfy, practical and fast. The only issue was snapping rear wheel spokes on the drum brake side at the bottom of big hills, presumably due to heat stress build up as it was smoking hot. Other than that, really good, and I would happily get/ rebuild a solo one if I needed a tourer.
^photos above look good!
