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... that 11 x 1 is better than 27 speed?
Yes.
Not really
Yes
Okay.
And why?
No.
2x10 was the pinnacle of technology.
IMHO.
Better range.
Seamless shifting.
Bullet-proof.
Better chain retention.
No cross over on the chain line.
Free left thumb for a dropper.
Front mechs were horrible.
It's not better.
add to Listers list:
Better ground clearance
Single control for changing gears
It's not compulsory so if you don't like it don't use it. Most of us 1x converts have spent many miles on 3x so know how that works
Far better IME. I have used 3 rings for a number of years with great success. But x1 is better because of its functional simplicity. It's like riding a kids bike. It's particularly useful when you avoid the cognitive distraction of making sure you're on the right ring or considering which ring would be ideal when you're tired and your mental capacity is diminished while all of what's left of it should be aimed at steering, braking, taking that drop or clearing that gap. Other advantages are a bonus.
2x9 is the way forward
The real question is , is 1x 11 better than 1 x 9 as invariably the front mech gets full of crap and doesn't work.
Fitting a 1 x chain is so much easier as you don't need it looped around a chain ring. Cleaning your bike is easier and it looks better.
Went for a ride with Mrs WF the other day. She used my brothers bike with Eagle 1 x 12. She loved it. Said it was the first time she felt happy with gears. Push one lever to make it easier, the other to make it harder. Admitted that the 2 lever system always confused her. Personally I like 2 x 10 on most bikes and 1 x 10 or 1 x 11 on a more gravity orientated bike (trying not to say the "E" word). Cannot see much real life advantage on 1 x 12 over the others, just disadvantages. (thinner chains and more expensive bits)
Wait till you try 1x12...
It's definitely a well and truly polished turd.
I am now ready for my gearbox, thank you.
Way better. Front mechs were and still are rubbish.
The trim on my CX front mech is so sensitive, the bend in the plastic guide under the BB renders it near useless. Without the trim the chain rubs.
I am convinced many folk cannot set up or use a front mech.
It's too subjective.
For me it's "better".
For you and many others it might not be.
I say buy what you prefer mate.
Yes. Lighter, no need to front shift, parts last better but most importantly- chains stay on. THere's a lot of changes I make that I'd happily go back but I never want to go back to the old days of chain drops, chain suck, chain jams, and chains generally doing anything apart from just staying on the cog.
1x11 good.
1x10 better.
Still waiting for the Microshift wide range 1x9 to get to the UK.
(caveat - been running 1x since my 2001 Trailstar on 1x7 11-34)
2x11 is slightly better than 2x9 IME because of the low end gearing. Tried 1x11, needed more range at the top end so switched to 2x11. With hindsight, should have just stayed with 2x9 and saved money. Ditched 3x9 15 years ago, 2x9 better for off-road stuff.
Was it ever really "27 gears" or just 27 possible combinations of chainrings and sprockets (many of which overlapped)?
Anyway define "better" OP...
So at 90 rpm. on 26" x 2.4(old tech I know but you can figure out your own calcs! 😆 )
3(22,32,44)x11/32, gives you a range of 5mph to 28.7mph
1(36) x11/46, gives a range of 5.6mph to 24mph.
So essentially, with 1x11 you are missing, 1 easier gear and 2 or 3 faster gears.
Seems a decent compromise to me.
I think so, but not in all cases.
1x11 has less range, sure, but it has enough for my XC race bike duties. It's also lighter AND cheaper (not many things are that), there's less stuff to go wrong (mangled a front mech in the past in a freak accident involving a stick) less stuff to set up*, and it's easier to clean because it catches less mud. Not only that but you only have to shift one side; this can be a negative if you want to move a lot of gears at once, but on the plus side all the gears are evenly spaced and you don't have that thing like I do often on my road bike where the two gears I keep wanting to switch between are on different chainrings so I keep front shifting. It's a PITA.
Then there's the fact that not having a front shifter frees up the left hand side of the bars for a much better dropper lever (which is why I tried it out in the first place). And, I can't really explain this but 1x11 runs much smoother than 3x9 ever did. This may be down to the NW chainring though.
On my adventure bike I would like to keep 2x11 because on *that* bike I need the rage.
Except I am now paranoid about chainsuck. 1x12 please.
* which I am actually very good at
Yes. Lighter, no need to front shift, parts last better but most importantly- chains stay on. THere’s a lot of changes I make that I’d happily go back but I never want to go back to the old days of chain drops, chain suck, chain jams, and chains generally doing anything apart from just staying on the cog.
See, I've never had that issue. Use a decent chain device and it will stay on all day, I never had one drop, suck or jam up the golfie the other day. In fact I can count in one hand how many times I remember it happening. Likewise the only front mech that ever seized was the one on my road bike.
I do get the argument against them, I just don't buy some of the spurious arguments used. I'd sooner see rapid rise erased from history than my front mech.
define "better"
I think it's just a different way of approaching the same problem. It just has different compromises
personally, i think that 1x systems were developed to answer the issues revealed by weak 29er wheels and suspension placement issues for long travel 29ers. That it's now pretty much spread to all bikes demonstrates the fact that it works well enough for most folk. I like the fact that it's simpler, that it's more or less the same range as 2x or 3x systems without the same weight and "complexity". Chain retention is better, and the lack of a mud jam makes winter riding joyous by comparison.
I am convinced many folk cannot set up or use a front mech.
What makes you say things like this? STW is home to bike nerds and most of the posters on the site have been riding and home spannering for decades, if there's one place on the 'net where you'll find an abundance of folk who can set up a front mech it's here.
Yea, 1x must have removed a major ball ache for FS designers and plus / fat sizes.
What makes me say that - all the comments about misshifiting, dropping chains, chain jamming etc
Better? Don’t know. But I definitely prefer it. On my last few bikes I road in the middle rung all of the time anyway and changing to big or small rings when I got there was just another thing to think about that annoyed me. Now I’ve got more range without worrying about shifting front rings, and I still double shift up and down regularly so the spacing is a non issue to me.
Prefer a double on the road though.
My SRAM GX 1x11 is ugly, noisy, and the most fussy drivetrain I've ever had to work on, but it's still fine for MTB and CX, and I'd go 1x again for both disciplines.
On the road bike though they will have to pry the front derailleur from my cold dead hands, I'm one of those sorts who wants range AND the perfect cadence, and 1x just doesn't deliver that for me. Just adding more and bigger sprockets doesn't cut it either, means uglier cassettes, uglier mechs and I'm convinced it makes for a less smooth drivetrain over-all.
Plus, wasn't it the accepted wisdom that more weight on rear wheel was a bad thing from a suspension point of view? Surprised 50 tooth cassettes have been accepted so readily...
Of all the reasons to ditch a front mech (and I get it, there's plenty of good ones) being the more unreliable mech of the two is definitely not one of them!
WAY better.
10-42 and an appropriate size ring gives me all the range I actually ‘need’. Occasionally I’d ‘like’ a lower bottom end, but you just have to dig a little deeper which is no bad thing. (1x10 was definitely limited imo). As with some others above, I ditched the big ring in a 3x setup donkeys years ago.
Front mechs were just ****. They worked fine to a point in good conditions, but were a nasty solution. The need to run a chain device also added more weight, cost, friction and mud retention. 1x with narrow/wide and a clutch mech just makes the whole chain retention issue go away.
I lost exactly 1/2 a kilo off the bike going from 2x9 XO to 1x11 XO1. That’s genuinely noticeable. Every individual new part was lighter and there’s less of them.
I’ve managed to get 5 years (all year, all weather) out of my current XO1 cassette - admittedly a lot of chains though (and it is now officially dead). Compared to a 9s setup where a granny ring would be knackered after 6-9 months and a new one wouldn’t work with the old chain, so it would be new everything, every time, I’ve spent way less on 1x. (I think the minimal chain wrap on a 22t ring coupled with the high torque was what did the damage)
I’d happily go 1x on road too, just for the simplicity, but it’s not quite there yet, although I do need to see how a 1x12 setup compares. I need more top end on a road bike, and gaps in the cassette are more obvious. Road kit doesn’t attract filth and wear out in the same way, either, so it would be a smaller improvement.
I prefer 1x11.
Only got the basic NX set up with N/W front ring.
Works perfectly and has been reliable for 3 years swapped between HT and FS bikes.
Not planning to go back to front derailleur.
I lost exactly 1/2 a kilo off the bike going from 2×9 XO to 1×11 XO1. That’s genuinely noticeable. Every individual new part was lighter and there’s less of them.
Which means that an updated 2x9 would have been lighter too, so the question is whether 1x11 is much lighter than a comparable 2x9. An 11 speed cassette will be heavier than a 9 speed made with the same technology. A 1x crankset will be lighter than a 2x. Losing the front derailler and shifter will save a bit. A rear derailler, probably very little in it. Same with chain. Personally, I can't see that adding up to 500g if you built a 2x9 with the lightest available components to match the new 1x11.
Wot TJ says.
I've pointed out in the past that it's quite astonishing the number of folk who seem to lack the coordination required to operate two shifters and/or can't set up a front mech. Usually, I'll be castigated for doing so, but at least there's a few on this thread willing to step forward and be counted.
FWIW I reckon 2x is about right, at least until we have 1x14, that approximating to the spread a 2x system gives (though the cassette will look weird). 2x front mechs are surely so simple to set up that anyone can manage it?
One advantage no mentioned so far is that when a rear mech freezes up with ice, a front mech still offers a bit of gear range.
1x has given frame designers a bit more free reign though.
One advantage no mentioned so far is that when a rear mech freezes up with ice, a front mech still offers a bit of gear range.
I'm hoping that global warming renders this advantage redundant, as I'm shit at getting rid of chain rub on front mechs.
I occasionally miss having a 42t at my disposal, but that's about it.
It's at this point that those of us with hub gears or gearboxes interject smugly and then ride off (almost) silently.
A teensy bit more range in the Alfine 8 would be nice, but there's nothing in Devon I can't ride with it.
As far as derailleur gears go I've never felt the need to venture beyond 1x10. One just has to thrutch a bit harder on the hills.
It's different but whether it's "better" is down to personal preference.
Have a play with a gear calculator and you'll see that 3x9 (and 2x10) systems have a few duplicate ratios and several that are so close as to be undistinguishable. Add in the front-rear options that lead to cross chaining and your 27 ratios will be much less.
I went from 3x9 on 26" to 1x10 on 29" and "lost" one ratio at the bottom end and two at the top. At the bottom end, by the time I run out of gears I'm on terrain that I'd be walking no matter what setup I might be on. Even with two fewer ratios at the top end I'm rarely spinning out*. I've got three MTBs, one is 1x11 and the other two 1x10, chainrings are 28T on the fat bike and 30T or 32T on the HT & FS. My main biking is long distance stuff and 1x is fine for that. Look at the "Rigs of the ..." lists for the Tour Divide, Silk Road, etc. on bikepacking.com and you'll see the vast majority are 1x.
Going 1x allows bike designers to accommodate wider tyres and keep chain clearance. Not sure 1x came in to deal with "weak" 29er wheels as it was in use long before they became popular.
On road you've a consistent surface (potholes notwithstanding) and climbs tend to spend longer at any particular gradient so you'll spend longer periods in any particular gear. On a MTB trail it's possible that you'll have to change gear every few metres to maintain cadence within whatever range you prefer. As with those above a 2x system makes sense to me on road.
*By spinning out I mean for a sustained effort on the flat not on downhill
The real answer is, it depends.
I went straight from 3x10 or 9, to 1x11 with zero regrets.
I currently have 2x10 (twice), 1x10, 1x11, and a 1x1.
They each work brilliantly for their intended purposes. Choose the gearing that works for you and ignore everyone else.
I’d happily go 1x on road too, just for the simplicity, but it’s not quite there yet, although I do need to see how a 1×12 setup compares.
I've been mulling this for a little while, and as a bit of a test I've decided to build up a 1x winter road/tourer/commuter bike got half the bits already its going to be 42t a chainring with an 11-34t cassette.
Should be interesting...
What TJ & Scotroutes said. I've no idea why people slag off front mechs either & 'cos theyr'e crap' isn't a reason (IMO). Maybe I'm just awesome & can work both shifters at once. (I'm not awesome but can work both at once)
I recently changed the cassette, chain & middle ring on my FS, (all XT) I did think about going 1x11/12 but couldn't justify the £'s to do it.
Anyway, at my age & with these knees I need all the gears I can get!
Yes.
Regardless of all technical reasons/argument I like how it feels. In my subjective opinion it's night and day better.
Other than the dropper post I think the invention of 1x has been the biggest leap forward in a long time.
But like what you like eh? 🙂
Scotroutes+1
I also think that 2x is a sweetspot, at least until 1x14 is available, then I will change.
Currently, 1x is a compromise in either range or gaps between gears.
This is MY opinion and it only applies to ME, im not telling anyone else what they should do or feel.
On the issue of weight/simplicity, 1x wins there, I can’t believe anyone needs to have much of a discussion about that.
Re: front mechs, I’ve worked in a few bike shops over the years, and seen experienced mechanics struggle with front mech setup, especially on bso’s, so i accept an argument from those who say they could never get them to work properly, but it’s important to remember that others experience may differ.
@cookeaa - my commuter/winter road bike is 1x as well and has that same setup. Fine for all but the very steepest hills here in the Dales and even then it's just a tiny bit of extra grunt - my road bike's lowest gearing is 35.2 gear inches, my winter bike is 35.8, I think the extra four kilos that the commuter weighs has more impact TBH.
1×11 good.
1×10 better.
Still waiting for the Microshift wide range 1×9 to get to the UK.(caveat – been running 1x since my 2001 Trailstar on 1×7 11-34)
This for me too, except I was 1x7 on a 1990-something Giant Boulder Alu... You weren't there maaaaaaaaaaaan, etc... I (personally) don't need a million closely spaced ratios with some crossover; I need a 2:1-ish gear, a slightly higher one I can stand on for DH stuff and maybe a really low bail out gear but to be honest I'd rather get off and walk if I need a gear that low.
But also, yes, a gearbox Stanton Switchback would be ace...
I demoed a 1x12 bike. I was surprised how well it all worked having been a skeptic.
I don't think 1x11 would work as well for me.
I've never found two shifters a problem. But it's not like I missed front shifting.
I think a real benefit is on FS bikes where designers know where the chain forces well be with greater certainty
Adjusting front mechs? Yep, I can do that. I have a gravel bike I can do that on.
I can set up a front mech. I can operate a front mech...
BUT I'D RATHER NOT!!
As said, it's very subjective and down to personal preferance.
For me, I've been on 1x for the last 10 years. It just suits my ridding and location. I hated the cluter & weight.
1x11 was the first time I feelt like I didn't needed anything else. The range was plenty.
Alas, new bike was 1x12 and the range is too wide for my riding. It's been more reliable than 1x11 though!
I used to be able to use the big ring on 3x9 to retain the chain on bumpy, fast track. Once I got going, I could think "ooh my chain might bounce off" and shift into big ring, low sprocket to keep the chain tight. Or do that gentle front mech trim, pedal technique to get the chain back on the front rings when it had bounced off. I could do that.
BUT I'D RATHER NOT!!
It depends doesn't it. Obviously the manufacturers like it because it's the latest new thing to sell and also full suspension bikes you can designed around chainline and pivot points a bit better.
I prefer it but it's not a panacea. For sure other people may prefer 2x or even 3x systems.
My riding is almost exclusively off-road. The only time I hit tarmac is crossing it to get to other off road trails. I don't really care about matching cadence with gear ratio because the nature of my riding is too choppy in its power demands to worry about it. Its all about Range.
1x12 10-50 with a 30t up front is the first integrated system that doesn't require some kind of alterations that meet my needs.
I'm not fooling myself though. The claims of lighter weight aren't really there now with these massive cassettes, but it is simpler, it's a neater package, there's less to think about, it is less prone to mud interference and SRAM x-sync2 stuff at least, wears really well.
Simplicity (and low cost) is the main goal plus it's an experiment.
I've done the maths and where my fancier (lighter) Road bike currently has 50/38 with a 12-30 cassette I'll get as near as damn-it the same bottom ratio and only lose the very top gear, however I do have the option of going for a bigger cassette (say a 36t, maybe even a 40t?). As I'm using an old XT mech and a friction shifter so I'm not tied to any specific number of sprockets (although I'm not sure I fancy trying to twiddle my way through 11 gears with a friction shifter), obviously it needs me to think about shifting increments Vs Range Vs cost (Ahem... compromises).
Like I said it's an experiment and hopefully by the end of winter I can decide for myself if I think a 1x road bike is a viable option (for me) and equip the posher one accordingly.
I'm convinced because I'm too stupid to use a front shifter.
Side benefit: the chain covers the front ring so no more big ring trying to slice your calf open when you crash.
Like everything in life, there is no doubt a compromise for most people and situations.
I had 3x5 iirc on my first iron gate, and it was a godsend to have such a low gear for climbing.
Function wise, I think 2x10 was about the best in terms of gear spread but it only takes one nasty chain suck moment to damage a frame, and this happened to me a couple of times. Despite being finnicky about keeping it all running sweetly, sometimes things happen and crunch - the chain is off and tangled.
Not had a dropped chain once since going to a 1x system.
Looks a lot better, performs very well and the only time I miss a seriously low gear was when I reminisce about a fat bike I had with 22 and 36 rings up front and a 11 to 46 on the rear. Far in excess of regular 2x and 3x offerings in their time so not really a valid argument.
A flip side is Di2 and other electronic shifting systems. It works so well on road bikes (my other half has it). Never missed a shift and programmes itself to change front rings to give the correct spread of gears when going up and down. If it works as well off road in all conditions then that could be the best option - but at a cost, and how will it cope with random chain suck scenarios - do they still happen?
Hmmm. I'm still using 3x9 on both my bikes.
My Inbred gets used as a bit of a jack of all trades, but quite a lot on local road jaunts with my Wife & daughter on her WeeRide.
It probably spends most time in the big ring. I could swap to 2x, I suppose but all the kit currently works & I'm not convinced that 2x is much of an advantage over 3x...
My full sus is still 3x9. I would consider swapping to something else, but:
- it all still works, so I would be changing it for the sake of it at quite a high expense.
- I don't have a dropper, so don't need more space on the bars for the remote.
- I can operate both levers fine & set-up a front mech, so don't find it a problem.
- Whenever i do go riding in hilly locations, I always see one or two riders struggling up climbs using 1x set-ups where they could probably do with a few more spinny gears. Living in the fens, I don't have hill climbing legs & find super-spinny useful for those situations.
3x9 does look pretty archaic on the bikes, when they are sat next to 1x systems.
– it all still works, so I would be changing it for the sake of it at quite a high expense.
I was definitely of the same mindset. Only changed when it needed to be, glad I did.
Whenever i do go riding in hilly locations, I always see one or two riders struggling up climbs using 1x set-ups where they could probably do with a few more spinny gears
There does seem to be a bit of a macho thing with 1x riders using big chainrings, but I've noticed that getting off and pushing up hills is generally more common these days anyway.
It's always interesting to see Chain Suck come up as a big issue. It must be very location-dependant. I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of times I've experienced it in 30 years of riding.
it’s quite astonishing the number of folk who seem to lack the coordination required to operate two shifters and/or can’t set up a front mech.
Except that I did it for 20 years, and I continue to do it on three of my bikes. But I still prefer not doing it. That's not a proper argument, just a dig.
It’s always interesting to see Chain Suck come up as a big issue. It must be very location-dependant.
It is. Mud is a very complex substance and varies greatly. There's a particular kind of wet gritty paste that you get on certain trail surfaces, in certain landscapes and with certain rates of rain that really ****s up drivetrains and you can be fine one day and basically unable to pedal the next due to more (or less) rain.
Whenever i do go riding in hilly locations, I always see one or two riders struggling up climbs using 1x set-ups where they could probably do with a few more spinny gears
I'm a reasonable rider and I run 30/46 on my race bike because I don't like pushing and our hills are steep. 30/11 top gear is not very high, but on my local rides there are only a few spots on the road to and from the trails where I spin out, and only for a few seconds. So on that bike, for its usage, it's such a minor issue I learn to live with it for the benefits. First few times I span out I reached for a taller gear and it was slightly annoying, but I got used to it. It probably makes the ride home about 30s longer.
But like I say it would be more of an issue on other bikes that get used for different rides.
Even then though I virtually never use 42/11 on my 3x9, and only very very rarely use 42/13. I should add though that all of the above refers to 29ers.
That's sort of what I was eluding too scotroutes, as I never had a major problem with it - until I did and it made a complete mess of a frame.
Only takes one such event to make you think about options and for me 1x took away any chance of chain suck so was a bonus.
Possibly looking through rose tinted glasses as it is that long ago now. I seem to remember the late 90s, early 2000s being the worst as this was just before I went 2x.
edit- and for me the rides were all in Yorkshire mud when problems happened. Very slippy, sloppy, gloopy mud and the entrance and exit route to the rides was generally a sandy in fill from cobbles placed on a path down into the woods. Esholt woods if anybody lives near Yeadon ;o)
Ahh the memories.
What DezB said. And now that the front mech is dead on proper bikes* the frames can stop being compromised to make room for them.
*obvious troll is not serious
Plus, wasn’t it the accepted wisdom that more weight on rear wheel was a bad thing from a suspension point of view? Surprised 50 tooth cassettes have been accepted so readily…
Yes, and is the reason I prefer 2x. Recently built up a Stanton switchback and went 2x because I much prefer a lighter rear end on a hardtail as well so it can skip over rocks more readily rather than thumping into them.
150g saving at rear wheel, 100g heavier overall.
..Chain Suck come up as a big issue. It must be very location-dependant...
Maybe, but mostly frame-type-dependant. And how-long-you-run-a-worn-front-ring-for-dependant. And maybe (according to the wise LBS owner I seem to have mentioned a couple of times this week) how-you-shift-dependant (as this effect the wear-ness of the chain ring - which means it is eliminated with 1X )
Depends on where you live and ride
When I lived and rode on the Moray coast the biggest climb might have 50m of ascent tops, so 1x8 (36t with 11-28t) giving a 254% range was fine.
Now I live in south Aberdeenshire and can ride into the mountains from my doorstep I'm grateful for my 3x8 setup ( 22-32-42 with 11-30t) which gives a 526% range, I still grind to a halt on some climbs and spin out on the way down.
I suppose I could still get up the hills with 1x11 34t 11-46t setup, but I would miss blasting the descents at 60kph.
Oh god… rides ruined by chainsuck… I’d completely blanked those out of my memory. Thank you Sram for moving things on for us all… even if I still use Shimano myself.
The real question is , is 1x 11 better than 1 x 9 as invariably the front mech gets full of crap and doesn’t work.
I’ve never heard of that happening. Do you clean your bike, ever? 🤔
I’ve never heard of that happening.
It happened to me after I did a really muddy ride and put the bike away dirty, then didn't ride it again for months. I fixed it by scraping out all the dried mud and spraying it with CRC.
The new MTB i got in March has 1 x 12 on it. My last MTB was 2 x 10 (originally 3 x 10) and i was sceptical about going 1x for a number of reason. My commuter has 2 x10 on and something that i used to take for granted now annoys me is the huge jump when changing on the front (ok its more exaggerated on a 50/34). I had got used changing down a couple of gears when changing to the smaller chainring with out noticing that this is what i was doing to maintain a cadence i liked. With the 1 x 12 there is no need to do this as the changes up are of a decent gap.
On a side observation it is funny how things become normal, i was looking at old photos and thought how odd the 3 Chang rings look even the 2 look a bit funny where as i used to think that the 1x chainring look very odd and small.
Hmmm. So looking at bit more into this...
It looks like SLX 1x11 can be had for around £220-£260, while XT is just over £300. Not as bad as I thought; although I'll be replacing an XT crank, XT shifters, XTR rear mech etc. so would prefer to stick with XT spec, rather than going down to SLX on my 'nice' bike. Probably no real-world difference, but.....
And then SRAM NX or GX 1x12 can be had for slightly less, although no idea where they sit in the quality stakes compared to Shimano? Is GX similar to XT sort of level? Their components (shifters & mechs in particular) look a bit plasticky compared to Shimano, although I've got Apex on the road bike and that works OK.
SRAM offers one more ratio, which might be nice....
Do both systems work on my 9-speed wheels? Swapping would be completely unfeasible if I had to replace my wheels at the same time.
It happened to me after I did a really muddy ride and put the bike away dirty, then didn’t ride it again for months.
Damn those faulty mechs! 😉
although I’ll be replacing an XT crank
Sure you need to change that?
I've never ridden 1 x 11 but I've heard people say the big gaps are annoying.
I'm quite happy with 2 x 11 on my road bikes as they give me the full range of speeds.
I loved the 3 x 10 on my Tricross for touring and C2C because it always gave you the perfect ratio with only small changes between cogs.
I’ve never heard of that happening. Do you clean your bike, ever?
A clean bike and half a lap of a cross race rendered one completely useless for me
@stumpy01 - no real need to replace a crank, just use existing crank with a Narrow-Wide chainring
SLX setup is 143 Euro at the link below, then you just need the chainring. Should be a fair chunk cheaper than £220-260
Surely the question should relate to 1x12 not 1x11 as that is where 1x transmissions are these days .11 speed with 420% range of gears is slightly compromised in terms of gear range but 12 speed with 500% or 510% range gives you all the gears you need without all of the aforementioned problems with front mechs .
A clean bike and half a lap of a cross race rendered one completely useless for me
Yeah, but I’ve ridden many cross races that render the whole bike useless after half a lap. Citing a cross race as evidence for front mechs being useless is ridiculous. And, if you’ve raced cross for any length of time, you’ll know that.
I think it’s great , right thumb for shifting left thumb for dropper post . Simplicity is key for me though , one less thing to look after and maintain.
I quite like the idea of that box 9 speed drivetrain , cheaper cassettes and stronger chains . For me anyway the closeness of the ratios wouldn’t be to much of an issue on a mtb , I can see the need for small jumps on a road bike or maybe a Xc race bike but for normal trail riding I reckon a 10 or 9 speed with the range of eagle would be fine .
DezB
Sure you need to change that?
Nope 🙂
honourablegeorge
@stumpy01 – no real need to replace a crank, just use existing crank with a Narrow-Wide chainring
Ah. So, it would seem.
Might have to look a bit more into this.....
...
- I can operate both levers fine & set-up a front mech, so don’t find it a problem.
– Whenever i do go riding in hilly locations, I always see one or two riders struggling up climbs using 1x set-ups where they could probably do with a few more spinny gears...
Why is it the "front mech preservation society" need to start rubbishing 1x users ability to use two shifters/operate a front mech correctly, setup a front mech correctly, generally imply that it's just a fashion (when it's now a quite clearly established norm on MTBs) or make out that all 1x users were morons all along and breathed a collective sigh of relief when the big corp's suddenly made bikes simpler for their tiny brains to operate...
Isn't it normally a last ditch tactic when you've already lost the argument, to just start badmouthing those that don't share your opinions?
Anyway, you lot are free to carry on dragging about your collection of mostly redundant cogs and the rest of us will keep swanning about with our neat "sequential shifting solution" and I'm sure we'll all muddle by somehow...
last ditch tactic when you’ve already lost the argument, to just start badmouthing those that don’t share your opinions?
Hmm, I've never seen that on STW..! 😆
It looks like SLX 1×11 can be had for around £220-£260, while XT is just over £300. Not as bad as I thought; although I’ll be replacing an XT crank, XT shifters, XTR rear mech etc. so would prefer to stick with XT spec, rather than going down to SLX on my ‘nice’ bike. Probably no real-world difference, but…..
You don't need new cranks, you can re-use the 3x cranks like I did.
I’ve never ridden 1 x 11 but I’ve heard people say the big gaps are annoying.
On an 11-42 no, on Shimano 11-46 like I have then yes the last jump is from 37 to 46. I could get away with 11-42, however since my Salsa is currently bust I am trying to use the Trek for training rides where I don't want too high intensity, so the 46 is on.
1x12 solves all these issues tho by the look of it, with only a 6T jump on the last cog instead of 9. Although I think Sunrace 11sp have a smaller jump?