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I recently turned my old steel race bike over to winter riding duties. Which at the end of the day just means adding guards, a Brooks, heavyweight tyres (Gatorskins) and a 39t inner instead of a 42t.
And now it rides like a pig, unless you crank it up. Sit down for some LSD and it doesn't want to move. Is this because it was a pure race bike with very compact geometry?
The Brooks? I've been patient, I've proofed it and I've only ridden using guards. But it's so high maintenance. I had to bring it indoors after Sundays wet 60 miler, but it was dry for today's ride. The thing is even when it's dry it sags under bodyweight, so how you set up saddle height millimetre perfect with one I don't know. So it's coming off later today to be replaced with an old Flite.
Note though. I've heard rumour that the Swifts tend to be like this?
I dunno, but I struggle to average 13mph on my tourer/commuter. Similar position to my 'summer' bike, Ok it's effin heavy in comparison, has 32mm tyres and guards, but I still can't figure out where 20% of the speed goes.
How old is the Brooks and have you 'tensioned' it using the nose bolt?
If it's relatively new and sagging still with tension then it's not right.
Sit down for some LSD
Drugs and cycling......more fun than EPO I'd imagine 🙂
The Brooks is about a year old with very little use.
milleboy it's the only way the trees will talk to me.
i have a brooks swallow
as you know im a brooks fan.
but the swallow isnt a patch on my b17 for being robust.
It's the tyres.
Answer is bound to be psychological.
No way is any change to that bike going to slow it down significantly - the tires might make a tiny difference tho (they are at the right pressure?)
Anyone who believes otherwise is probably on the fortune-telling thread tho.
i agree probablt the tires
and as for setting up saddles mm perfect .....your not in the TDF its a club ride on a sunday with friends 2mm wont kill you
Gatorskins are hardly heavyweight. I run Marathons on my tourer and still manage to average around 13mph over longer days.
As for the Brooks, my B17 is a couple of years old now and hasn't been "looked after" in any way. Yes - I normally run with mudguards if I'm on the road but not when off-road. No - I don't cover it when wet or take any care in drying it out (the bike just gets thrown in the garage). I should probably take some Proofide (or Sno-Seal) to it, but that'll be only the 3rd time.
thats obviously subject to how light the tires he had on before were.
[quote=trail_rat ]thats obviously subject to how light the tires he had on before were.
I'm betting the Gatorskins are nearer the weight of his original tyres than the weight of a set of Marathons 🙂
Only 110g per tyre heavier. And I reckon that Brooks sag a good 20mm.
I've come to the same conclusion as the OP about Brooks saddles: too variable between what should be identical saddles (no two cows identical), too much maintenance required and not worth the half a kilo it adds to the bike.
I have a couple of B17s that I gave up years ago trying to keep in perfect condition. I just drilled, laced and rode them when wet. They survived alright but are both well sagged.
On the other hand I also have a Swift which is like sitting on a rock after 1000's of miles in all conditions.
All three have been removed and put in the 'might use in the future' box in the garage.
I would also agree that my Roberts is nicer to ride on a clubrun or commute with a 200g rather than 500g saddle. Maybe that's psychological though.
weight in itself doesn't slow you down significantly on the flat*
*or even on climbs, and yes the rolling resistance of a heavier tire may be greater.
im betting your fitter than the op though druidh .... willing to bet you do more milage 😉
druid races a lot of Sportives too 😉
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[quote=trail_rat ]im betting your fitter than the op though druidh .... willing to bet you do more milage That can't possible be the case. [i]Everyone[/i] knows that the fittest folk are those in road clubs that go "racing". 😆
crikey: Old data. The X-Axis starts at 20, thereby exacerbating the difference. And where are my 700x28 Marathons? 😆
Interesting graph that, do we know how they did it?
The X-Axis starts at 20
Still >25W difference.
of the changes you have made, I can only think that it would be the tyres.
Everyone knows that the fittest folk are those in road clubs that go "racing".
Yeah and don't you forget it. 🙂
I usually use Diamante Pros
Sorry, I was in a rush, gotta get that green bin out!
http://rouesartisanales.over-blog.com/article-1503651.html
It's from here.
and contains:
[i]In general terms, the total drag of a cyclist will consist of 80% tire rolling resistance and 20% wind resistance at 10 km/h or 6 mph. At 40 km/h or 25 mph the numbers will reverse, with total drag consisting of 80% wind resistance and 20% tire rolling resistance.[/i]
That's the answer then - go faster and your tyre choice doesn't matter so much!
BTW - my 700x28mm Marathons weigh 560g each.....
that graph: 😯
25 watts difference at 18 mph!
That's the answer then - go faster and your tyre choice doesn't matter so much!
That's what I found, horrid at low speeds, okay when cranked up.
In amongst all the marketing rubbish and old wives tales about cycling equipment, in my experience, buying good road tyres is worth it. I've never bothered with winter tyres after working it out.
that graph has GP's and Shwalbe stelvios needing more ffort than gator skins.
that can't be right???
[i]that can't be right???[/i]
Seems to be supported by the figures from the test in the link?
Liking my Michelins...
It explains why I always liked my Michelin Pro2s and hated Conti GP3000s....
The Brooks is about a year old with very little use.
Under a year then return it under warranty.
I've never bothered with winter tyres after working it out.
Do you mean cheap tyres? I've never got that either. I spend disproportionately more on decent tyres, though I do tend to ride two types in the winter: Vittoria Pavé or GP4S. Love both of them. TBH, I've ridden them year round too.
That graph does explain why I always felt faster on Vittoria Corsa - sadly I wasn't stronger, just deluded by rubber.
Under a year then return it under warranty.
I used it last winter and got it soaked on one of it's first outings. I don't think it's been used since February up until now.
It has a massive sag in the middle? when I look at google images they seem to have a nice straight top, not mine.
It's probably just over a year old.
It's comfy, very comfy. Just hard work.
So I don't know if it's rose tinted specs or what, but when they were common in the 70s I don't think anyone maintained them and they were as tough as old boots.
ourmaninthenorth, I'm tempted to go back to Pavés, expensive but bloody great. These Contis have dreadful grip as well, I'm cornering like a tart.
The 'old boys' say the leather is thinner than the 70's saddles.