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I've got a Specialized Camber Evo 2015 and when I last took it to the local mechanic he said it is questionable on whether it is worth repairing.
It needs:
It desperately needs a repaint (it looks absolutely horrible, it is a bad colour to begin with (yellow) and the paint work is in a bad state) (£100)
frame bearings (£45)
bottom bracket (Already got the BB)
rear brake bleeding (About £10)
new 10 speed rear mech & shifter ( Unsure of Cost ?)
Plus about £50 labour for taking everything apart and putting it back together for all this work
Prices were what were quoted when I last saw him
The Forks (Rockshox Reba's) will need replacing sometime soon as well. They have done over 10,000K so knackered as you would expect, the initial compression is stiff, and on the last lower leg service they were apparently full of water so they must have started to let water in.
Yes it seems the best option to get this repaired as it is a lot cheaper than buying a new one. But the bike mechanic said the frame is getting worn out. One day the pivot bearings won't be able to be replaced as the threads are getting worn in the frame. The pivot bearings have been in and out twice already, so it is currently on it's 3rd set, requiring it's 4th now. I asked how many more times will the frame bearings be able to be replaced, he was unsure as there is one bearing that is usually particularly difficult to get out, and one day it might not be able to be possible to get it out.
Yes the repaint is not essential and that would save some of the total cost, but then I wouldn't like to continue throwing money at a bike that looks horrible. I'm usually the last person to worry about what a bike looks like, but this one really looks terrible, like you'd look at it and think "I wouldn't like to be on that". The bright yellow colour really shows up the mud, the paint is missing completely on the chainstays and the rest of the frame is full of scratches and missing patches of pain where rocks and stuff have hit it over the last 10,000K Plus
Sound's like a load of tosh to me. Excluding the paint, (which is only cosmetic) that's about £170 quid's worth of work against a replacement price of £2k ish? Threads don't get knackered after three or four uses, I'd say your mechanic is taking the piss.
Id wager the forks can be serviced and repaired too. New seals should sort out the water problem - that's what they do, (unless you can see that the legs are badly work because all the anodising is worn off).
2015? so 2/3 years old. Seems odd it's on it's last legs unless you have been giving it a total beasting.
I wouldn't worry about the paint, wanted add for mechs etc and just get him to sort frame bearings.
I would be disappointed if a bike only last me 2/3 years including the fork, I expect wear and tear but total bike death seems odd unless it's been properly neglected. It does sound like your mechanic is trying to give you a right bumming.
£170 quid's worth of work against a replacement price of £2k ish?
2k isn't far off what the OP has spent, rightly or wrongly, 'maintaining' that bike...
[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/horrendous-mountain-bike-maintenance-costs ]déjà vu[/url]
Deja vu, Deja vu everywhere
Damnit, 6 seconds too slow
Thought it sounded familiar.
Still the same mechanic taking the piss ?
Yes it would be disappointing if the bike is a write off already, it has 13 frame bearings but there is one that the bike mech says it's really hard to get it out and one day it might not be possible without damaging the threads in the frame.
I'm in a difficult situation with the repaint, it is not essential but the other issue is that it looks horrible and I don't want to keep throwing money at a bike that looks horrible. However if I have the repaint done then the bike only lasts another 10 months or so before the frame is a write off (due to the threads possibly being damaged next time the pivot bearings need replacing) then it would be a bad idea.
I'm just surprised to hear how easily the frame on a FS can get damaged when replacing worn out pivot bearings.
2k isn't far off what the OP has spent, rightly or wrongly, 'maintaining' that bike...
Oh, it's that camber and that mechanic......
Buy a new one then!!
Maybe consider a rigid 29er singlespeed? or Rohloff?
Yes it is a similar situation to the one I was in a year ago but the local mechanic has changed as I have moved from Hag Fold to Hindley.
2015? so 2/3 years old. Seems odd it's on it's last legs unless you have been giving it a total beasting.
I wouldn't worry about the paint, wanted add for mechs etc and just get him to sort frame bearings.
I would be disappointed if a bike only last me 2/3 years including the fork, I expect wear and tear but total bike death seems odd unless it's been properly neglected.
OK I think I will get it repaired & repainted then
I'm not sure if it's a case of the mechanic not wanted to work on a worn out frame or whether he's advising me to save me wasting money on something which may result in catastrophic failure.
Is it normal for threads to start getting worn in the frame for pivot bearings and can it really write a bike off, or is this unusual ?
I'll pretend the previous thread didn't happen 😆 I wouldn't bother with the repaint, and without that it would certainly be cheaper to repair than replace. But 10,000k+ if all of road is a fair bit of riding, I'm not suprised the bike is a bit tired. I'd buy a new one as I'd be bored with it by now. But you've got to make your own mind up. It's pretty pointless asking the same question over and over.
Lets have a picture to see how bad the paint is then. As far as i know frame bearings aren't screwed in anyway, there is a screw-able top cap but if installed correctly shouldnt be a problem with threads. Are you going to the same LBS as before?
Edit: just seen its a different mechanic
Lets have a picture to see how bad the paint is then. As far as i know frame bearings aren't screwed in anyway, there is a screw-able top cap but if installed correctly shouldnt be a problem with threads. Are you going to the same LBS as before?
It is a different local mechanic as during the last 12 months I moved from Hag Fold to Hindley. This mechanic really seems to know what he is doing, as he and his mates go to Whistler every year, and the Alps twice a year, plus UK riding XC & DH, and his DH times are extremely good. Plus he does all the repairs and maintenance for himself and his group.
The (previous) Hag Fold mechanic seemed to be a bit hit and miss, some jobs he'd fix and other issues I'd be taking back multiple times, but the mechanic in Hindley seems to be good so far.
I will have to wait until tomorrow before I can get a picture of the bike.
This mechanic really seems to know what he is doing, as he and his mates go to Whistler every year, and the Alps twice a year, plus UK riding XC & DH, and his DH times are extremely good
That'll be why Lewis Hamilton does all his own spannering then 😉
I'm just surprised to hear how easily the frame on a FS can get damaged when replacing worn out pivot bearings.
I think we are all surprised.
Stickers are cheaper than a repaint.
I think we are all surprised.
🙂
How are you clocking up so many miles? What sort of riding are you doing?
If the mechanic is doing the job properly with the right tools, there will be no damage when replacing bearings...don't bother with the paint; get the forks serviced as apart from wear and tear, the bike is not too expensive to fix if that is all it needs - are you sure your mechanic just doens't want to do the work for you?
OP - if you like the bike then its worth doing the repairs and potentially getting a repaint. If you're not in love with it you might want to think about something newer.
TBH it sound like the 2 mechanics you've dealt with up to now are taking the mickey a wee bit - not unheard of but also not the norm in my experience.
If you're going to do it all then you might want do the repaint first as you might need some wee finishing touches, threads cleaned etc depending on who you use. Then you can get it rebuilt with new bearings, new drivetrain maybe even new folks all properly installed, greased and lubed.
I have literally never got a frame resprayed.
When I was on an mtb holiday in Spain the guides replaced their bikes every year, they justified this by saying that their bikes did loooooads of mileage and they were the local distributors for Turner, so the bikes were at cost price.
I get the feeling like the mechanic often doesn't want the work, I get the impression that he has more work than he needs.
Regarding the damage to the frame.
How are you clocking up so many miles? What sort of riding are you doing?
On this bike it has all been typical XC. Never done uplift DH on this bike. Bridleways, footpaths, etc.Red/Black routes at trail centres. All done in the UK. Yes there has been some tarmac linking sections of trail together but this is inevitable unless you ride trail centres 100% of the time.
10,000k in 2.5 years is only 4000k a year on this bike. 4000k is only 76k a week on average. With 2-4 rides a week in Summer and about 1 ride a week in Winter then its not surprising that it's had that much mileage
This mechanic really seems to know what he is doing, as he and his mates go to Whistler every year, and the Alps twice a year, plus UK riding XC & DH, and his DH times are extremely good. Plus he does all the repairs and maintenance for himself and his group.
Sounds like he is making a serious amount of money so can be picky about who he does work for - which directs me back to my previous comment about him deciding he doesn't want to do the work and trying to cost it out of him doing it.
My advice to you would be to either invest in some tools and learn to do your own spannering, or buy a new bike and console yourself by recognising how much you are contributing to the bike industry
Me doing any of these mechanical jobs on a bike will always end in disaster. I think I'd better just get it repaired, it's not going to worth much if I sell it in that state (mechanical & paintwork), and only 7 months ago I spent £200 on it to give it a Dropper post, and another £200 on a new Wheel with a Hope Hub, so it would be mad to just sell it for very little money after that.
Let's rewind a second here. Is this really about you wanting a new bike?
If so, crack on mate - strip the Camber and flog the bits that are still good.
Someone will have the frame off you for a project and can get it re-painted the colour they want.
As before this 'mechanic' is taking the P.
Do yourself (and us) a favour and take it to an actual reputable bike shop, one with proper tools and training.
Frames are designed to have bearings changes, so saying you can't and/or the frame will get damaged is just a lie. Probably beyond his skill set (and his tools) so he's just trying to fob you off.
I think it’s probably safe to cut and paste the last third of the first thread and close this one.
Rereading through this again i think the 1st boyo might of hacked the jobs he done and turned a bike into a turkey,not cleaning up brake fluid etc could explain flaking paintwork. The 2nd boyo may not want to touch it after such hacks for liability issues
Do yourself (and us) a favour and take it to an actual reputable bike shop, one with proper tools and training.
This ^^ x 1000.
FS frame bearings come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, some require special drifts to get them in and out, some are proprietary...
For the love of God, just take it to a [b]proper bike shop[/b], ideally a Specialized dealer. Get it completely stripped down - everything off it, shock and bearings out and then you'll be in a better place to see about cost, respray etc. If it's not worth it, sell the decent bits and scrap the rest.
I had the bearings in my old S-Works FSR and later my Epic replaced a couple of times and it was always relatively painless. There's no threads, they just press in and out so there shouldn't be any frame damage from it. Unless your previous "mechanic" spilt brake fluid in there and corroded the crap out of it.
grannyjone - Member
Me doing any of these mechanical jobs on a bike will always end in disaster. I think I'd better just get it repaired
Find someone who can do a proper job then. Doesn't matter if they are skilled riders and do fancy trips paid for by the prices they charge for basic servicing. They could have poor servicing, but the stuff they do for themselves gets a lot more attention or more likely they just use the profits to buy themselves replacement parts instead of servicing them.
The forks don't need replacing. They just need properly servicing. Lowers isn't enough for 4k a year. Full of water - seal gone somewhere or failed to replace a seal/washer when servicing. Simple job when pulled apart.
BB & bearings & brake bleed are simple jobs (betting the brakes probably don't need a bleed. It's a default some people will go for to try to fix a problem that's often something else, even just worn pads!).
Mech and shifter I bet don't need doing, though maybe you've bent the mech. Unlikely shifter needs replacing. New gear cable, maybe new outer is probably all that's needed. Unless you're upgrading. Depends what the problem is they're trying to fix. Is there even a problem?
Paint - cosmetic. Up to you. Plenty of places that will do a nice respray. Or just ride it.
I don’t know what you are doing to your bike to ruin it so much.
I suspect the mechanics have seen you coming I’m afraid but you don’t seem to have taken any advice from the previous thread either.
You don’t need a mechanic for most of those things, it’s that simple.
Split the bike down, get what you can for it and move on, you’ll never love that bike after the money you’ve ‘had’ to spend on it.
Keep on top of the new one and don’t spend £££s getting someone else to bleed your brakes or change your pads!
The forks don't need replacing. They just need properly servicing. Lowers isn't enough for 4k a year. Full of water - seal gone somewhere or failed to replace a seal/washer when servicing. Simple job when pulled apart.
And if you can't do it yourself, send it somewhere [b]reputable[/b].
https://www.tftuned.com/ for example. Yes, more expensive initially but you know they've done a proper job with proper tools and spares and they have a proper guarantee to back it all up.
I used to use them (back in the days when I had RockShox and actually did MTBing!) and they were always superb. Well worth the price over some random back-street mechanic. My forks lasted ages and worked perfectly, TF custom tuned them for me as well.
I suspect the mechanics have seen you coming I’m afraid but you don’t seem to have taken any advice from the previous thread either.
Basically this.
Keep on top of the new one and don’t spend £££s getting someone else to bleed your brakes or change your pads!
I don't pay someone to get my pads changed. Not even 2 years ago. I'm not *that* basic!
The mechanic just gets used for the hard jobs, certainly for the frame bearings, anything to do with hydraulics or suspension internals. Plus the jobs that require loads of expensive tools that I don't have.
I don’t know what you are doing to your bike to ruin it so much.
North West England. It is muddy as hell. At the moment it has got as bad as it gets, which is probably why a lot of the bike seems to need a big repair every time this time of year comes round.
Having to replace the frame bearings every 3300K is not unusual around here
When I ruined my cranks in March the bike mech fitted a Raceface Cinch set of cranks with a Raceface Cinch bottom bracket.
Unfortunately I later read that the Raceface Cinch bottom brackets are shit and don't last much longer than a few months of heavy use.
Since I've got the Raceface cranks I'm stuck with this type of bottom bracket now.
This is another problem with this bike.
It's the U.K. it's muddy everywhere!
Ongoing maintenance is key, with a bit of tlc you'd spending a lot less money on big jobs.
I have one bike that is coming up to 5 years old and 4000+ miles. It's just about to get its first new BB, original headset is still good, wheel bearings all fine, only had one new chain in that time, and it might need a new one soon, but the original cassette is still going strong.
Now it gets ridden hard, but I check, grease/oil and maintain it regularly.
My similar aged full sus is still on its original bearings. Not ridden as much, but it gets taken to BPW, FoD, various Welsh trail centres, etc. all places that are hard on kit and bearings. Again I check, maintain, and grease.
Do yourself a big favour and don't rely on someone else to do all these things. Save money, save parts, and save time. Then for the big jobs take it to a proper bike shop/mechanic!
[quote="GrannyJone"]This is another problem with this bike.
Um, no. It's primarily a problem with you, followed by a secondary, but much larger problem with your choice of mechanics.
Since I've got the Raceface cranks I'm stuck with this type of bottom bracket now
Who told you that? Hope make BBs that fit.
Since I've got the Raceface cranks I'm stuck with this type of bottom bracket now
To be fair, that's a problem with the whole bike industry, the range of proprietary parts and "standards" but two things:
As mentioned, Hope make BBs that fit and I'm sure Wheels Manufacturing do as well.
This mechanic seriously just fitted a new chainset & BB without talking through the options, costs, potential future issues around compatibility...? Without asking your opinion and without you doing any research around it?
If so, 😯
No bike shop or mechanic should ever "just fit" something; they should phone you, explain the problem, give you the options and wait for your explicit approval.
Picture of said bike...
Or OP is a wannabe mechanic and testing the water with how much BS repairs he can quote people for and undertake. 😀
No bike shop or mechanic should ever "just fit" something; they should phone you, explain the problem, give you the options and wait for your explicit approval.
You’d be amazed how many folk drop bikes off saying ‘do whatever it needs, I’ll pick it up when it’s ready’
yes its worth repairing. YOu either need to find a decent mechanic or learn to do repairs yourself
Why does it need a new mech? possibly jockey wheels are worn but mechs either work or the don't.
Forks need a proper service from someone who understands how to do it. sounds like they were damaged by your previous mechanic.
ETC etc
Um, no. It's primarily a problem with you, followed by a secondary, but much larger problem with your choice of mechanics.
When I lived in Hag Fold, I had no other choice of mechanic. The Hag Fold mechanic had a total monopoly of that town and the 3 nearest towns as well.
Since I've got the Raceface cranks I'm stuck with this type of bottom bracket now
Who told you that? Hope make BBs that fit
I read about it online. If Hope make BBs that fit, then I'll ask the mechanic to fit a Hope one next time round.
It's the U.K. it's muddy everywhere!
This is the problem, the mud. During the first two years I used to just fit mud guards (so that I don't get covered in it from head to foot) and try to "ignore" the mud. The bike obviously got filthy as mud guards just keep most of the mud off the rider and not the bike.
Since then I've been trying to avoid muddy conditions and always plan rides in accordance to the weather. e.g. In Winter riding more trail centres when conditions are muddy, and trying to avoid riding anywhere whenever rain is forecasted, or getting the hard tail out if its a ride where the trails are expected to be appalling.
Whenever trails are dry and dusty I try to get out every day.
Since then I've been spending less on repairing the Camber FSR.
I wish we didn't have the mud but unfortunately we've got it and it's something to put up with and it costs me a lot of money.
Bollocks. You're half way between Manchester and Wigan, All he's got a monopoly on is people too lazy to actually find someone who knows what they are doing. Must be 30-40 shops within easy travelling distance. I'm sure plenty of people on here could recommend one.When I lived in Hag Fold, I had no other choice of mechanic. The Hag Fold mechanic had a total monopoly of that town and the 3 nearest towns as well.
Get someone who knows what they are doing to fit it instead.I read about it online. If Hope make BBs that fit, then I'll ask the mechanic to fit a Hope one next time round.
Must be 30-40 shops within easy travelling distance. I'm sure plenty of people on here could recommend one.
Like Rebound Suspension Horwich ?
I think not. Not in walking distance so getting the car out is essential.
30 minutes drive from Hag Fold. Drop it off, drive back home, wait a few days, pick it up, drive back home with bike. That's 2 hours driving.
In that time, I could have nearly driven to the Southern Lake District and back.
I went to Rebound for a Fork service once just to see if I would have any better luck with them than the Hag Fold Mechanic.
They charged £80 for the full service (£40 more than the Hag Fold mechanic would charge)
The fork only lasted 5 months then it locked out completely.
On taking it to the local mechanic he said Rebound are "cowboys" and they did a bad job rebuilding the fork and the circlip was missing.
Don't even suggest Halfords or Allens or Leisure Lakes they are definitely not an improvement. If I had to rely on those I would have given up
The Hag Fold mechanic had a total monopoly of that town and the 3 nearest towns as well.
Yeah, I'm starting to think this is all a wind up.
Yeah, I'm starting to think this is all a wind up.
I don't waste time on a computer unless there is a point to it. I don't go on forums for fun, only to try and get information
I wish we didn't have the mud but unfortunately we've got it and it's something to put up with and it costs me a lot of money.
Any yet it doesn't seem to cost anyone else anywhere near the figures you're quoting.
I'm gonna be blunt here, but you seem to be asking for advice and then completely ignoring the advice given. [b]Stop being such a chopper and learn how to fix your bike[/b], its not some magical black art that requires a doctorate in mechanical engineering. Its a few spanners, hex keys the odd £30 tool (if that) and some youtube videos.
.....damnit, beaten by seconds again. ^^
If this is trolling may I be the first to congratulate you sir
I'm gonna be blunt here, but you seem to be asking for advice and then completely ignoring the advice given. Stop being such a chopper and learn how to fix your bike, its not some magical black art that requires a doctorate in mechanical engineering. Its a few spanners, hex keys the odd £30 tool (if that) and some youtube videos.
It is alright saying that, but I don't stand a chance in being able to learn this stuff. I might learn 1 or 2 new things every year, but there's no way I'm going to go from being able to do very little, to doing everything, within a short period of time.
I've tried to follow Youtube videos and its been a disaster. If anything they seem to make it worse. They make it look easy, but when I try to do it, it's not the same.
If this is trolling may I be the first to congratulate you sir
Like I said, I don't go on forums for fun, I don't really enjoy using them and only go on them for information.
If you find it all too hard to believe then don't read the thread again. I can only speak for myself and I have very few mountain biking mates (all of who I very rarely see) so don't get much chance to talk about bikes to anyone else so if it wasn't for this forum I would have just thought that all this is the norm.
I don't really enjoy using them and only go on them for information
Which you then ignore or rubbish.
If you paid for a Cytech course it’d be cheaper than let this “mechanic” rinse you every time you visit him.
I don't stand a chance in being able to learn this stuff.
Wahhh wahhhhh wahhhh. Suck it up and [b]learn[/b]. No one is buying the "I cant learn to use a spanner" line. What a load of bollocks.
Jobs like suspension forks, rear shocks, hydraulics, dropper posts, frame bearings etc are quite advanced and really don't think I'll be able to do those any time soon. Plus I don't have anywhere warm to work on bikes (I refuse to bring oily or dirty bike stuff into the house) so any attempt at doing it is restricted to summer only.
Suspension forks, rear shocks, dropper post - remove from bike with allen keys, stick in box, get box collected by tftuned, receive box back with fully serviced components, fit back to bike with allen keys.
Plus I don't have anywhere warm to work on bikes (I refuse to bring oily or dirty bike stuff into the house) so any attempt at doing it is restricted to summer only.
Wahhh wahhhh poor me.
Old sheet, Jesus H Christ. You've got yourself in a real pickle about all this - see advice about not being a chopper.
All my bikes live in my attic flat. Never left outside at all. I also service them religiously to prevent stuff failing ie all fluids changed every year etc etc
As far as I can see you have a few options, pick the one that appeals the most
1.continue to use current mechanic and learn to live with cost
2. Maintain your bike better, I do similar milage to you and haven't done anything like the repairs you seem to need. You are cleaning it, right? 😕
3. Find better shop to do your repairs
4. Buy tools and a Haynes manual
5. Find a home repair course and sign yourself up!
It's in one ear, out the other, same as the last however many threads.
Sell the bike, buy a new one, get reamed by the same "mechanic". Again.
No one here really cares anymore.
Where do you store your bike if you don't have anywhere warm to work on it and refuse to take it in the house?
I work on mine in the garage where it lives - just wear a base layer and any other clothes required to stay warm whilst doing it. Not a problem.
I won't attempt to rebuild forks / shocks, but will have a go at most other jobs. I find YouTube guides generally really useful with jobs I haven't done before.
Apart from a fork service I don't think my bike has been in for any work at a bike shop in the last 10 years or more. Even did the rear suspension bearings myself - although it was quite an easy frame to do without any kind of bearing press required (Boardman Pro FS).
Just get yourself a workstand and a few useful / decent tools like Allen keys / torque wrench / torx keys (if you have Sram mainly) / cable cutter / Bottom Bracket tool etc and you'll be well away.
Given how much cash you spend on the mechanic, all of the above will be paid for in pretty much one visit.
If you can't be bothered, then it'll be a case of 'suck it up princess' and just keep paying the mechanics wages.
[i]I don't go on forums for fun[/i]
Clearly a weirdo.
Have a few days away in the Lakes, get your bike fully rebuilt in the process (probably working out cheaper than the Mechanic), get an unbiased opinion on what is / isn't borked AND come away with the skills to tackle some of it again in the future.
https://www.cyclewise.co.uk/course/10-bike-maintenance-strip-build-course
https://www.cyclewise.co.uk/course/23-suspension-service-course
I'm no big fan of Rebound, but can't see how a used fork breaking after a further 5 months of hard use is directly their fault. There is also Bounce Suspension in Preston who have a much bigger workshop and lathe etc for making tooling to fit and remove bearings and bushes.
Ride-On in Rawtenstall is probably the best workshop in the area - unfortunately it isn't right on your doorstep so isn't going to suit.
In slight fairness it has been especially grim up north this year. The CX racing thread shows people further south making use of file tread and intermediate tyres whilst almost every race since September up here has been wall to wall mud. Rivington gritstone (where I assume the OP rides) is particularly abrasive (a friend now living in the S.Lakes has noticed a big difference in wear of bearings etc).
You know, I'm almost tempted to help you out on this.
I work in Central Manchester. Drop bike with me and a week later you'll have it back completely stripped and rebuilt. Forks and shock to TF Tuned (I can get free postage but obviously you'll still end up with the bill for servcie) and my LBS will do most of the rest.
Someone somewhere just needs to show you the difference in quality between your back street bloke (who's busy creating work for himself by slagging off places like Rebound) and an actual proper shop with proper tools and qualified mechanics.
By way of transparency, photos, full cost breakdown, full descriptions will be posted on here for all to see and examine and challenge. Full communication with you at every stage of repair, again available for all the helpful forumites to view.
And I'm sure there must be a couple of people on here who'd vouch for me as well.
What do you say?
It will be more expensive initially but it'll save you the next 6 months of back and forth with issues after fault after problem.
That said it may well be cheaper than you expect because I still believe that your "mechanic" friend is creating a lot of these problems in the first place.
Repair it.
Then buy a rigid singlespeed for the winter.
I remember reading through your trials and tribulations before, @grannyjone. I know that you've spent a fortune, we're reading the same pattern as before, with a "local mechanic" who appears to be somewhat erratic with his recommendations.
First thing first: Suspension.
I've never heard of Rebound Suspension, but I have heard of TF Tuned and Loco Tuning and have experience with both. You'll need to remove forks/shock/dropper post, clean them and send them via the post, but you're getting a quality job done with servicing.
Second thing: Bearings
Your Camber's suspension bearings are press fit and require specialist tools to drift out and press back in. This is one job that you need to be going back to your local Specialized dealer to sort, your warranty will be invalidated if you don't. Last time I had mine sorted, it cost me £100(ish), but I had absolute confidence that the mechanic knew what they were doing and had the correct tools to hand. Most importantly, if the Spesh dealer did botch the bearings, I had redress.
[url= https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/store-finder ]Specialized Dealer Locator[/url]
Third thing: Rear mech and shifter
What exactly is wrong with them? If the shifter is stiff, then cables would be the culprit, unless the mechanism is contaminated with gritty water. The latter can be sorted with GT-85 and a bit of lube. Some SRAM rear mechs can go baggy with use, but if the shifting is out and cannot be fixed by cable tension, then the issue is more likely to be down to the mech hanger, which is about £15.
Fourth: Bottom Bracket
Spend a bit extra on a Hope BB with stainless steel bearings, get it fitted by a competent bike shop. Job done.
[url= http://www.hopetech.com/product/press-fit-pf46-bottom-bracket/ ]Hope PF46 BB[/url]
Fifth: Brake bleeding
I know that you've been here before with brakes. If your Camber has Shimano brakes, then a bleed kit is available for not a lot of money and bleeding them is a doddle. I've not tried the modern SRAM stuff, so cannot comment on how easy or otherwise it is. You could spend less than £20 on a bleeding kit and fluid (make sure you get the correct fluid for your brand of brake - Shimano uses mineral oil) and you'll be able to bleed your own brakes every few months. It'll pay for itself.
[url= http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/bike-brakes/shimano-disc-brake-mineral-oil-bleed-kit ]Shimano bleed kit and reservoir[/url]
Sixth: Paint.
This job isn't cheap if you want a reasonable job done. If your Spesh warranty is invalidated because of the bearing changes, then you may be best served by getting the frame powder coated. Powder coating is tougher than paint, if done properly the results will look very good indeed. But for the love of Jebus, make absolutely sure that you go somewhere you've researched thoroughly. I'm sure that some of the North West's STW massive will give you pointers, I'd ask them before talking to your mechanic.
Alternatively, if you must have paint then look no further than Argos Cycles or Ooey Custom Paint - both are Specialized approved but do expect to pay in the region of £350 (you'll need the bearings removed before repaint anyway, so factor this in too). You would also be well served by getting either Argos or Ooey to fit an Invisiframe kit, which will protect your paintwork from scratches. It's not cheap (circa £130 including fitting), but it works.
[url= http://ooeycustompaint.com/ ]Ooey Custom Paint[/url]
[url= http://argoscycles.com/ ]Argos Racing Cycles[/url]
Final thing:
Given that you're doing a ride a week in the winter months, perhaps the very best thing that you could do would be to buy yourself a winter hardtail, with a Deore groupset and a rigid fork.
And I hope that I shouldn't have to suggest that you ditch the mechanic and find yourself a Specialized dealer nearby. It might mean extra hassle, but it'll pay dividends in the long term.
PJM + (mathematical symbol that looks like a sideways 8 )
I don't stand a chance in being able to learn this stuff.
Given your seeming inability to weigh up and consider advice and options, this seems like a fair point.
Please take crazy-legs up on their (his?) offer.
Please take crazy-legs up on their (his?) offer
^ This x100.
Fifth: Brake bleeding.....and you'll be able to bleed your own brakes every few months...
Just a point of note, brakes don't [i]need [/i]bleeding regularly unless they're broken.
Renewing the fluid annually is a good idea for sure, maybe even bi-annually if they get extreme use, but under normal circumstances a brake shouldn't need bleeding unless you've broken something (leak etc.) or deliberately removed a hose.
They don't just magically ingest air for the fun of it, and the rate at which brake fluid degrades or absorbs moisture from the air (given the semi-sealed nature of the reservoir) is small, if you have a brake that needs [i]regular[/i] bleeding, you have a broken brake or it's not been bled properly in the first place.
I think that you should definitely take Mr Legs up on his offer.
I've just read this and the previous thread, and I think I understand now what the fundamental problem is.
You simply cannot be arsed.
You were given a lot of good advice in the previous thread, and have ignored all of it.
You've had competent mechanics recommended to you but you can't be arsed to drive anywhere and prefer to take it to a halfwit working out of his front room.
You've been told where to get your forks serviced properly, but you won't do that, because you can't be arsed.
You've been advised to learn how do basic maintenance tasks yourself, be that online videos or a course, and haven't done so because you can't be arsed. You said 11 months ago that you were going to start trying to do so - have you?
You've said you have a second bike but don't use it as it doesn't fit, you were told how to fix it and haven't given any indications that you've been arsed to do that.
You've been given a tremendous offer to sort the bike once and for all by a trusted member of the forum, and I'll bet dollars to donuts that you won't be arsed to do that either.
So in answer to your OP, I don't think buying a new bike is the right thing to do, because in six months' time it'll be as sodded as this one is now. Because you still won't be arsed.
One other thought:
My mate's missus goes through drivetrain and brake components like Jimmy Savile through small boys. Not because she does a lot of riding, but because she has zero mechanical sympathy. I've no idea what your riding style is like, but given your pathological aversion to Allen keys perhaps a skills course might help you become a smoother rider and thus improve the longevity of your bike components?
Y'know, if you can be arsed.
I should add, given that we spend time in different forums and you don't really know me,
I'm not trying to be mean or unkind. It's just that if you ever hope to rectify this beyond throwing money at the problem and hoping it'll go away, you need to start taking some of the advice you've been given. Some of that may be inconvenient, but it's a lot less inconvenient in the long run than making do with a broken bike for two years.
I think Cougar has nailed it.
So in answer to your OP, I don't think buying a new bike is the right thing to do, because in six months' time [i][u]it'll be as sodded as this one is now[/u][/i]. Because you still won't be arsed.
I particularly enjoyed the phrase underlined