Go easy please folks, I know I’m a QR man from the 90s/00s, yet not so much ‘resistant to change’ as ‘all at sea’ after enforced spell away 😀
OK this is what I have - (no idea of hub brand/type as it came laced onto a used TD24 rim, have removed QR skewer obv)
I would say no, but what is the diameter if the axle/inside of the bearing?
A 15mm axle may fit, but you'd also need end caps.
Thnks ajantom
Where am I measuring? (I did warn you 😆)
You need to measure the outer diameter of the bearing then see if you can find a bearing with the same outer dia. and 15mm inner dia.
Edit: just seen photo, measure B first and report back.
A 15mm axle may fit, but you’d also need end caps.
I haven't yet seen an instance where the bearings in the front hub have an ID of 15 - at least on Hopes and DT they are 20mm and the caps go inside the bearing as well, so the axle sits on the caps rather than the bearings.
Not sure if it would be an issue, given that a 20mm axle would indeed sit on the bearings.
At least in my experience with 30mm cranksets, having the inner race of a bearing directly contacting the aluminium spindle is a bad idea.
I believe the DT Swiss 370 front hub has the axle in direct contact with the inner bearing race. That's just from looking at the parts manual though so I could be wrong.
I was planning on converting a 370qr to 15mm myself. They don't appear to do a kit for it but I found a source for a suitable bearing.
measure B first and report back.
Thanks Jordan. Ok, not having calipers I used a fairly solid set of adjustable grips on the threaded axle and get 12mm maybe 12.5mm
It's nice to measure all that stuff but I think the fact is if you can't id the hubs you have, you have little chance of getting what you'll need to make them fit. I'd start by trying to figure out what they are.
Is my hub convertible to 15mm Maxle?
No
tbh it's not going to be simple without knowing what hub it is and seeing if a kit is available unless you're into a bit of engineering/bodging. You will need to strip the hub out first and see if there are the neccessary clearances in there to get in what you need to get in.
First job is sourcing some bearings as I said above, so you'll need to get the old bearings out and do some measuring. I sourced some from www.simplybearings.co.uk
Bear in mind, I haven't actually done this yet so this is all theoretical. I am working from the DT Swiss 370 parts diagram which tells me most of what I need to know about my hub and I have some engineering skills. Then you'll need to souce/fabricate a spacer to go between the bearings. Then you will need to source/fabricate some end caps.
Sourcing the correct spacer and end caps won't be easy since most manufacturers don't publish dimensions.
If you know how to use a lathe it will help enormously.
thnks for all the input. Seems like a replacement hub/wheel is the least painful solution. No access to machine shop or any decent skills in that area. This is one of those ‘buy cheap, upgrade twice’ (used 26er) moments 😉
Prob best to stick with the (QR) Toras for the mo and ride into the ground as the existing wheel/hub is mechanically perfect. Gives me time to save for a service on the Sektors and a new wheel as and when
You're welcome. Probably the best course of action then. I'm only contemplating doing it because I can and enjoy solving things like that. If/when I'll get around to doing it is another matter.
Been there with a hub like that. Turned out to be a generic Formula based hub. Answer was no.
Got new wheels. Frame was QR rear but could get DT Thru Bolt with a 10mm hub, which may or may not be stronger/stiffer than a skewer but looked nice and I prefer DT levers.
