[Closed] Is it poss to get cracked parts of an alu frame cut out and new bits welded in ?

I’d ride that. The cosmetic stuff has split but that bracket looks sound.

Nope Im not riding it anymore, It make a nasty cracking noise when you ride- plus there are other cracks heading up towards the top as well on the other side

Just get a plate welded over the top of the plate drill the shock mount hole out and use a longer bolt.

"Just get a plate welded over the top of the plate drill the shock mount hole out and use a longer bolt."

Any ideas as to where to go to get a plate welded over ?

Your local alloy fabricator might be a start.😜

I'd cut the cracked piece out. The problem with welding is that the localised heat with cause localised embrittlement / premature weld failure. Probably easier to get a couple of steel reinforcing plates made and riveted either side - obviously will need a longer shock-mount bolt.

If its welded it will need heat treating. I'd be tempted to bond some patches on. Will need proper bond prep with a primer. Could even make something which is one piece around the seat tube and bond to that too.

Those cut outs are ridiculous. What have they saved 10g?
Stupid design.

Any decent metal fabricator could do that for you. A good car body man probably could too. There are a few recommended custom bike guys whose names are passed around on here unfortunately I cant remember any other than 18bikes. Don't know if they do Ally.
I'd probably have them cut out those plates and install thicker ones. If you want to keep the looks they could tack the decorative bits back on.

Is there a sticker on the frame saying what alloy it's made of? I think ideally, 6000 stuff needs heat treating after welding but 7000 doesn't.

I fixed an alloy frame cracked near BB - I made up some alloy plates to cover the cracked area and took it to an engineering shop who welded the crack then the plates over. Worked OK, metal might be more brittle but frame would be scrap otherwise. I used Panda Engineering in Bradford they basically have a drop-in office where a bloke will give a quote, I think I paid about £40-50 took a week or two while they stacked up alloy welding jobs. Must be lots of similar engineering places around.

6000 stuff needs heat treating after welding but 7000 doesn’t.

To achieve full strength that's true. Although iirc 7000 should be heat treated, but at 250° not 600° or so for 6000
The difference is significant - to heat treat 6000 will turn your bike into a pretzel unless you have a means of holding the frame in shape. Not feasible for a one off job like that, I'd have thought.
The lower temp of 7000 means you could do it in your oven at home if it fits.

Plus welding without heat treating is around 30% weaker. That's probably 90% stronger than it is now!

5mm T6 aluminium plates of whatever 6000 grade you can find (loads on ebay for under a tenner if nothing local) bonded and bolted on top as already suggested. You can still go the welding route later if needed (the welding will probably knacker it / start new cracks anyway).

I destroy metal things in the lab at work. Always good showing fabricators that some things aren't "weldable" (in the structurally sound sense) just because you can apply a pretty looking weld bead to it.....

What stuff would you use to bond it?

Drill holes in the 4 corners on each side of the mount and then bolt 4 mm plate both sides will be plenty.

"Is there a sticker on the frame saying what alloy it’s made of? I think ideally, 6000 stuff needs heat treating after welding but 7000 doesn’t."

All  I've found is marketing guff which says

Drawn Seamless Aerospace grade Aluminum

T"hose cut outs are ridiculous. What have they saved 10g?
Stupid design."

I had another epi before this which broken exactly the same place - but that one was still under warranty

It was a ridiculous design - i'd never buy another ellsworth - but i'd still like to get it fixed as it didn't ride too bad and i've got some tapered 26" QTR forks which are only good to work with this frame