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This in my sons internally routed Cube
[url= https://www.cube.eu/en/2017/hardtail/ltd/cube-ltd-race-2x-blackline-2017/ ]Race LTD[/url]
and the gear cabling is internal, with different coloured outers on the top sections. I’m putting some wider bars on it and the outers don’t have a lot of extra length to accommodate for a front wheel 180 or more rotation in an off. Without pulling things apart to have a look, I am assuming that these outers must stop after they enter the frame, otherwise the colour change couldn’t be done. Anyone had one apart ? I may just recable and put an extra 10cm or so of normal black outer on top sections.
I don't know that bike, but looking at the pic it seems to have stops on the frame (the plastic rectangle) so yes, there will be a top outer and a bottom outer separate.
To re-cable you'll want to call in to your LBS and ask them for the cable tube that comes with new bikes/frames - these are throwaway and so usually you won't get charged if your LBS are nice. You then cut the end off of the cable at the mech end so it's tidy and push said tube up the frame over the inner then tape it in place at either end ready to thread the new cable back in through. The tube is very thin and so fits through the holes in the frame without any disassembley.
Thanks, that makes sense. I hadn’t thought of using cable tubes, I usually just tape new inner onto old one and pull through the frame, as I’d be replacing outers at the same time anyway.
Get yourself some of this tubing, it's SO much easier and less chance of going wrong and spending an hour playing with magnets 😆 It comes with pretty much every bike so LBS should have loads in the bin.
As above, when you buy a cube frame it comes with the thin cable piping in place. Taped to the frame
Half an hour of playing in the garage and I agree ! Outers off, they are cable stop plates, have snipped and taped existing inners and will get some cable piping to put over it before going any further, thanks for advice.
THE most stressful cable change I have ever done. Me and the missus looked like we were doing heart surgery with long, thin allen keys and a spare spoke!
The Cube Sting WLS didn't have anything in place. The outer stopped at the frame, they you just had to aim down the tube with the inner to the next hole at the bottom. 👿
I had one section of cable tubing in my toolbox which was long enough, just, for the front mech, so changed that side last night. It made the task very simple, thank you to those who pointed me in right direction !
Need a longer piece of tubing to do rear mech side so will pick some up in LBS later this week.
I use a magnetic screwdriver to locate the cable as i thread it through.
Obv this won’t really work if it’s a steel frame tho eh.
Assuming you can remove the bottom cable stop plate, make a loop wuth a small zip-tie the loop only has to be 20mm or so in diameter. Push the loop into the hole in the frame, holding onto the long bit. Push the cable inner into the top hole. Carry on until the cable goes through the wee loop of zip-tie. Pull the zip-tie out if the frame, having now captured the inner. Feed the inner through the cable stop plate and refit it.
Scotroutes, I did think of that but TBH I don’t need the bike in the next few days, so popping into LBS once back at work is dead handy and the sheath/straw stuff will be useful for other bikes too.
JNR isn’t so into his riding and the Cube has only been used a handful of times. I am popping wider bars on and going tubeless and will use it myself for coaching and some light xc (maybe also May weekend with kit type stuff) as it is likely a bit faster/lighter/more efficient than the Bird.