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OK, so I know you can buy Dura-Ace pedals with 4mm longer axles. But I'm a Look user, and even if I was a Shimano user, would probably be using 105/Ultegra level not Dura-Ace due to price, so...
I'm aware of these...
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They only seem to come in 20mm, 25mm and 30mm lengths though. At a guess, to bring it more inline with my MTB position, I'd probably want something like 8-10mm per side. But then I guess that brings with it its own problems as the spacer wouldn't then be long enough to fully support the pedal on its own!
So... Short of changing to Shimano and buying some 4mm extended Dura-Ace pedals, is there any other way of increasing the Q factor slightly but not as much as those bike fit pedal extenders do? Ideally someone's going to tell me I can just buy some 8-10mm longer axles for my Look Keo's, but I can't seem to find anything with a quick google search sadly.
I have no friggin idea what your on about 🙂
Have to say though the road bike you got me is rather good !
Sorry been in the pub alll evening
Look pedals can take 4mm of pedal washers on the axle due to their 16mm thread. Shimano and all other pedals have a 12mm thread. Most chainset manufacturers require 12mm of thread contacting the crank.
Ultegra pedals are also available in a longer spindle version.
[quote=mboy ]At a guess, to bring it more inline with my MTB position
Why do you need to do that? Like most people the Q factor is wider on my MTB than my road bike and I don't find it an issue.
I have no friggin idea what your on about
Haha no worries
Have to say though the road bike you got me is rather good !
Glad you're enjoying it!
Sorry been in the pub alll evening
Don't blame you, I would have been too if I'd have had an offer!
Look pedals can take 4mm of pedal washers on the axle due to their 16mm thread.
Did not know that to be fair, does explain why the Look axles stick out the inside of my SRAM Red Cranks slightly though even with the normal 1mm thick pedal washers supplied with the SRAM cranks fitted. Might give that a try first.
Ultegra pedals are also available in a longer spindle version.
Have since found that out too. Used to be just Dura Ace, seems they've added Ultegra. Still keen not to switch to Shimano though, especially not for a mere 4mm.
Why do you need to do that? Like most people the Q factor is wider on my MTB than my road bike and I don't find it an issue.
Simply put, I'm not "most people". I have a severe history of knee pain, especially on road bike, I've only recently got back on one (and had to get a new one with a more upright position at that!). On the MTB the knee pain doesn't tend to manifest itself until my Reverb develops any sag, and my knees definitely track straighter (it has been said that at times, especially climbing, I could put Evlis to shame with my rubber legs!). Not only that but I've got very pronounced arches too, and I feel that the slightly wider Q factor helps to stop hot spots there.
Oh, and finally... I know a few people who've had expensive bike fits and ended up with those ludicrous 20mm axle extenders fitted to their bike as a result!
I got the 20 mm extenders and it improved my comfort and power. SJS have some cheaper ones if you want to experiment.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/pedals-cleats/20-jtek-qplus-pedal-extenders-916-inch/
Couldn't K make you something in the exact length you want ?
I have some original knee savers 20mm still in packet if you are interested.
Couldn't K make you something in the exact length you want ?
Problem isn't getting something made (would be fairly easy), it's that the thread is 16mm long, so it either needs to clear the crank completely (and thread into another spacer, hence they start at 20mm), or can only be spaced out by up to 4mm. So between 4mm and 20mm of spacing, there appears to be no way (That I have seen) to space the pedals out, other than to buy an appropriate length axle, which is an option for Speedplay it would seem but not many others!
Look used to make the Look CX7 pedals with adjustable stance width.
You might be able to get some old new stock somewhere.
These might be OK, or they might not be.
http://rideissi.com/pedals/issi-road
http://rideissi.com/articles/stance-width-and-why-its-important
paton, those issi pedals are supposed to be ok, and Look compatible still. Interestingly, looking at their "why stance width is important" page, my knees track outward quite wildly if I don't think about it at the top of the stroke, which would suggest a longer axle is exactly what I need...
I run the issi spd pedals with the longest axles on my cx bike, have been reliable with no problems.
Also run speedplay with the longest axles on my road bikes, changing to a wider Q factor was the best thing I ever did regarding bike fit
I run standard spds on my mtbs, it gives almost exactly the same Q factor as my road bikes
you could change the cranks.
That's encouraging to hear crazybaboon
A quick google does indeed reveal my road bike cranks have a 145mm Q Factor and MTB cranks are 175mm.
you could change the cranks.
I could, but I don't really want to, besides most road cranks seem to be under 150mm Q factor anyway, which isn't going to yield any significant improvements.
Interestingly, looking at their "why stance width is important" page, my knees track outward quite wildly if I don't think about it at the top of the stroke, which would suggest a longer axle is exactly what I need...
Is poor hip flexibility contributing at all (can't flex fully at the top so knee tracks outwards to compensate)? If so shorter cranks on the road bike may help as well. Just a thought. Might be talking crap.
Is poor hip flexibility contributing at all (can't flex fully at the top so knee tracks outwards to compensate)?
Almost certainly...
If so shorter cranks on the road bike may help as well.
Already on 170's and have been for ages, couldn't ride 175's without severe pain after a while, and 172.5's weren't that much better. I've thought about trying shorter still but with a 33" inside leg, there's got to be a practical point I stop and say "it's you it's not the bike"...
Could you modify the cleats in any way? I run mine as wide as possible, more for wide feet and heal clearance than knees, but a few mm should be achievable.
...or alternatively ride flats so you can adjust your foot position/width during the ride. Works for me.
perhaps have a look at your shoes and consider some orthotics to help align your legs better. If you want to get your feet wider apart on the road bike then having some foot support on the inside could achieve the same kind of alignment your looking for perhaps? FWIW I use specialized shoes which have a wedge in the forefoot that helps stop the foot rolling inside and the knee following it, definitely helps
As well as the longer pedal axles, I also wear s works 6 road shoes with a shim under each cleat to angle my feet out and also run the green maximum support insoles.
Don't seem to be so picky on the mtb, as only use the insoles, not used any shims or wedges
Run 175 cranks and cleats as far back as possible
It's definitely worth trying different set ups as I've had a lot of issues with my feet and knees over the years, which no longer affect me
This reminds me, I really should sort out my bike fit one of these days.