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I've got a set of Shimano SLX M675 brakes which I recently started using again. I went down B-Side (v. steep in places) at Glentress yesterday and think I found their limit. They've got a set of Ice-Tec finned pads in, resin at the front and sintered at the back.
I bled them before refitting and, the rear especially, took a few goes at getting all of the air out of the caliper. I think the bleed is good as the brakes remained firm throughout the ride, no sponginess even when hot.
I now have Zees on my main bike, as I took the SLX ones off as they just weren't scrubbing the speed off on steep stuff.
Is there anything I can do to make the SLX brakes perform better? Change of pad type/make? Refresh any worn out parts in the lever or caliper? I've had them since 2011 I think.
I use the Uber Bike Race Mstrix pads in my Shimano brakes, they are most excellent. It's probably also worth checking the rotor thickness and replacing them if they're worn.
8" rotors if you don't have them already.
1) Bleed them (sounds like you have that sorted)
2) Clean the calliper and master cylinder, use brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to wash any brake dust and gunge off the seals, then give the seals a wipe with a cotton bud soaked in mineral oil, pump the lever without pads in to get the pistons to move and see if they move evenly, if no then repeat until both seals are clean and free of friction.
3) New pads (I like the race matrix ones too), same pads front and rear unless you really do drag your rear brake down everything (in which case a thorough once over of the brakes, and new pads might give you the confidence to brake less!)
4) New rotors. If your current rotors are in good condition then give them a light sand with some 800grit wet and dry and a flat block of wood to remove any old pad material that's on the surface. Then go bed your new pads in. Bigger rotors on the front especially, there isn't much point running anything other than 200/180 (or it's equivalent) on a trail bike unless you're a lightweight.
And if all that doesnt work, just get some of the new deore 4-pot callipers.
Safe to assume the brakes are working as well as they can and if we assume they're centred well (and you don't have a lazy piston somewhere).
'Softer' pads and bigger discs.
Thanks all. I'll check the piston movement and give them a clean. Rotors are fairly new as the pads, but think I'll try out a 200mm rotor and resin pads on the rear.
In my experience, older Shimano calipers have tiny, tiny leaks. This means that they are great a first ride after new pads, but within a day or so they are contaminated with tiny amounts of fluid and just don't bite like they should.
I have binned three sets of 2010-2013ish sets.
I just had new Deore calipers replaced under warranty for the issue.
older Shimano calipers have tiny, tiny leaks.
I will check for this thanks
a 200mm rotor and resin pads on the rear
That should read as 200mm rotor on the front and resin pads on the rear.
Is there a Shimano adaptor that takes a 160mm fork's post mount to 203mm?
I'm looking to replace my SLX calipers with the 4 pot deore's. Is it as simple as disconnecting the old ones and popping on the new ones? Are they compatible withe SLX levers?
Would a good set of braided hoses make a difference?
I’m looking to replace my SLX calipers with the 4 pot deore’s. Is it as simple as disconnecting the old ones and popping on the new ones? Are they compatible withe SLX levers?
I thought about doing this but bought some Zee's from Germany instead. This was when the 4 pot Deores were first out so sold at close to RRP everywhere. The Zee's are excellent and weigh the same as the SLX they replaced (i.e. the ones that don't work well). As for the SLX levers working with the Deore 4 pot caliper. From Googling, I think they will work but not sure if it will be optimum operation.
Would a good set of braided hoses make a difference?
Aren't they only good for removing the paint quicker from your frame at rub points?