You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
I'm looking for chainrings for a 2006-ish 175mm Shimano Sora triple square-taper crankset.
The middle chainring is stamped SG A-52/A-42/A-30 and the 5 fixing bolts are 130mm BCD 5.
If anyone has any and wants to sell them or has any good ideas where I might be able to source some from, then I would be grateful for any information!
My LBS has suggested sourcing a new Sora triple Hollowtech II crankset at around £107, which is a good idea, but I have a ride (London to Brighton with friends) this Sat 21st and the parts I can find can't be shipped until later next week!
Is there something weird about the crank that means it's got to be a Sora one, or will any 130 BCD 5 arm do? St John Street cycles are the best single source I know for these kinds of spares, but frankly you've left it a bit late if you want anything delivering reliably before this weekend.
Decathlon? Iirc shimano chainrings fitted my decathlon commuter’s oe triple so it should work the other way too.
Otherwise Spa Cycles
Also if chainring is shagged the chain may be to.
And if there’s no alternative try turning the chainring around, some will, fit some won’t, that’s an old school roadie trick
amazon have a few options , that can be received tomorrow, you may need a new BB / chain.
good luck, I'm struggling to get some FSA pro road chainrings which are only 3-4 years old on 10/11 speed, its seems older 7-8 speed is far easier to source..
Is there something weird about the crank that means it’s got to be a Sora one
Just that the chainrings match the crank arms aesthetically.
SJS showing stock of 50 or 39 tooth.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/130-bcd-5-arm/?groupset=sora
Stronglight and TA usually work well as replacements.
Another vote for SJS Cycles. The guys who answer the phone know their sh1t and will tell you what works from a compatibility perspective.
Used them for road and MTB chainrings this summer - and none of the chainrings we bought were the same groupset, but fitted the BCD and tooth count required....
You could try some Stronglight ones if they do them in the type you need. I run them on my turbo trainer without issue.
Just that the chainrings match the crank arms aesthetically.
Can't quite tell if you want a full set or just the middle ring from your description, but if just the middle them it's mainly hidden behind the outer, you'd barely notice it.
Spa cycles are also knowledgeable and quick. Loads of chain rings in different BCDs
Spa cycles for sure, you can probably get a new crankset from them as cheap as 2 new rings, they do a lot of nice simple sq taper ones.
test
Is there something weird about the crank that means it’s got to be a Sora one, or will any 130 BCD 5 arm do? St John Street cycles are the best single source I know for these kinds of spares, but frankly you’ve left it a bit late if you want anything delivering reliably before this weekend.
tthew, nothing weird that I know of - just that it's easier to search for an exact replacement, rather than needing to know a lot more about the specifications of what is required.
After searching for exact Shimano replacements I did order some Stronglight chainrings a while ago, and then after trying to fit them recently I think that they are not a suitable replacement, and if you look at them there are none of the lumps and bumps on the Shimano chainrings that I think help the chain to disengage and move to the next chainring when shifting. This is the problem with trying to use different replacement parts where you need to know much more to be successfull. They do fit the crank, but are a bit thicker than the Shimano chainrings - I didn't try to secure with a bolt, but that thickness may reduce the thread engagement.
These are the Stronglight chainrings, in case it helps anyone else:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yy0c3zttqkptcuq/AADQRvk1fgdrfXd1VEb4LJbOa?dl=0
I did search SJS, but they didn't have direct replacements and also no 52, 42 or 30 tooth chainrings for 9-speed of any brand (I didn't specify 9-speed in my original post, but it was implied by the 2006 date!).
Fortunately I did find an exact replacement on eBay where I had to buy the crank as well, but these are used chainrings, but in better condition than mine. I also have a friend in a bike club who found a member with some spares - again used, so I have gratefully acquired them for the future too.
I should probably look into buying a new road bike, but my main focus is mountain biking, and the Giro is fine for what I need, as long as I can still source parts for it!
I am still interested in finding sources for 9-speed parts as I am also running that on my MTB too - I just haven't had a compelling reason to upgrade yet.
Decathlon? Iirc shimano chainrings fitted my decathlon commuter’s oe triple so it should work the other way too.
Otherwise Spa Cycles
Also if chainring is shagged the chain may be to.
And if there’s no alternative try turning the chainring around, some will, fit some won’t, that’s an old school roadie trick
kilo - Interesting - Spa Cycles I saw Stronglight chainrings with some of the lumps and bumps that I would expect - similar to the Shimano ones. Maybe the ones I bought were for single chainring setups, although a 52 tooth single chainring sounds extremely masochistic - not my world of pain!
I have learnt that BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) and PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) are the same measurement (info for others like me) and this helps to measure your existing setup: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/how-to-measure-bolt-circle-diameter-bcd
I did start by changing the chain - which was a lot looser than the 0.75 on the chain checker. I don't let my MTB chains go below 0.75, but because I use the road bike a lot less, this point was exceeded a long time ago apparently! The new chain skipped badly on the old cassette, so when I bought a replacement I looked for new chainrings because I figured that they would also be badly worn too.
The trick on turning the chainring is useful to know for the future for a quick fix for a skipping chainring on a long ride!
amazon have a few options , that can be received tomorrow, you may need a new BB / chain.
good luck, I’m struggling to get some FSA pro road chainrings which are only 3-4 years old on 10/11 speed, its seems older 7-8 speed is far easier to source..
whatyadoinsucka - I did check on Amazon for the Shimano chainrings for 9-speed, but no joy. It was where I bought the Stronglight chainrings, but I think I bought the wrong ones because they have no lumps and bumps to assist with shifting. The problem with considering upgrading to 11 or 12 speed is that I would have to change the drop handlebar shifters, and at that cost point a new bike is probably the sensible choice.
Good luck with your chainrings, maybe you should consider 7-8 speed with some classic levers on the downtube!!
Right... Any chainrings with correct BCD/PCD will do. If they have pins and ramps that aid shifting it is a bonus, if they don't, shifting will be that little bit slower.
Been there, done that. I'm not a racer type so not an issue for me.
Pre-pandemic time there was loads of various chainrings on ebay kicking around, now probably not so much.
Especially if you are treating your bike as a secondary and you are not fussed I would use Stronglight you bought. They are OK. Had decent millage from them.
Personally I would look for steel 2200/Claris grade (or corresponding FSA/Sram/Others) chainrings to have best possible millage for money.
And of course your 30T wont be BCD 130 as it will not physically cover such diameter. It would be probably 78BCD. The smallest 130 BCD chainring possible is 38T, 110 33T and so on...
If you can source 11 or 12 speed chainrings with correct BCD won't make any difference. Going opposite way might do. From 7speed to 12 probably might experience some issues with shifting or chain jamming.
But in the areas of 9-11 speed no issues whatsoever.
Cheers!
I.
Is there something weird about the crank that means it’s got to be a Sora one
Just that the chainrings match the crank arms aesthetically.
Superficial - it was mainly making sure that what I was buying would match the crank, but it's always nice to have it look good on the bike too!
SJS showing stock of 50 or 39 tooth.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/130-bcd-5-arm/?groupset=soraStronglight and TA usually work well as replacements.
slowol - I was starting to look at the more modern Shimano 50 and 39 tooth chainrings, but that would have reduced my top end speed a bit (not great to start with!), so I avoided that.
As I said in my other replies, some of these Stronglight chainrings look like a better replacement than the ones I actually bought and having seen them will not use because they don't seem to have the right bumps to aid shifting.
I appreciate the info, I think I will have to hunt harder for these replacements and time goes by.
Another vote for SJS Cycles. The guys who answer the phone know their sh1t and will tell you what works from a compatibility perspective.
Used them for road and MTB chainrings this summer – and none of the chainrings we bought were the same groupset, but fitted the BCD and tooth count required….
susepic - I have had good results finding parts from SJS that I couldn't find elsewhere too. I haven't thought to call them though, which is a good reminder to not just rely on what you can find on the internet. Also, exactly the kind of advice that I would need to mix and match components.
You could try some Stronglight ones if they do them in the type you need. I run them on my turbo trainer without issue.
stumpy01 - Stronglight do seem to provide a good alternative - as long as you choose the right ones, that I think I failed to do!
Just that the chainrings match the crank arms aesthetically.
Can’t quite tell if you want a full set or just the middle ring from your description, but if just the middle them it’s mainly hidden behind the outer, you’d barely notice it.
tthew - I thought I needed to replace the middle and outer at a minimum - I always seem to be changing between them. Maybe that's a good reason for moving to 11-12 speed for me...
Anyway, I ended up replacing all three in the end with the same Shimano chainrings, albeit used.
Good point on the middle being hidden, not that it would upset me that much anyway!
Spa cycles are also knowledgeable and quick.
ampthill - Good to know it's worth picking up the phone or emailing, I will definintely bear that in mind next time.
Spa cycles for sure, you can probably get a new crankset from them as cheap as 2 new rings, they do a lot of nice simple sq taper ones.
b230ftw - Yes, my LBS suggested this too, and I was very close to doing it - even going for a Shimano Hollowtech II crankset. Square taper is definitely worth considering too.
Right… Any chainrings with correct BCD/PCD will do. If they have pins and ramps that aid shifting it is a bonus, if they don’t, shifting will be that little bit slower.
Been there, done that. I’m not a racer type so not an issue for me.Pre-pandemic time there was loads of various chainrings on ebay kicking around, now probably not so much.
Especially if you are treating your bike as a secondary and you are not fussed I would use Stronglight you bought. They are OK. Had decent millage from them.
Personally I would look for steel 2200/Claris grade (or corresponding FSA/Sram/Others) chainrings to have best possible millage for money.
And of course your 30T wont be BCD 130 as it will not physically cover such diameter. It would be probably 78BCD. The smallest 130 BCD chainring possible is 38T, 110 33T and so on…
If you can source 11 or 12 speed chainrings with correct BCD won’t make any difference. Going opposite way might do. From 7speed to 12 probably might experience some issues with shifting or chain jamming.
But in the areas of 9-11 speed no issues whatsoever.
Cheers!
I.
IvanMTB - thanks for that info, I was about to get rid of the Stronglight chainrings, but I'll keep them as spares for the future!
It's also useful to know about the interchageability 9-11.
Talking about the inner chainring, you are right it's a much smaller BCD size, and reminds me to mention to anyone out there like me that the bolts were very difficult to turn when removing and re-fitting the inner that even with a regular allen key I think I managed to slightly cross-thread one or two of them. I did correct one of them by carefully re-threading and tightening, but the other is still at a slight angle. I haven't tried to change that any more, the inner ring is secure and I probably won't ever have to change it again. I was surprised, but they did need quite a lot of force...
I also had problems with three bolts on the larger chainrings, which I had to drill out eventually (8mm HSS drill bit). The bolts seemed to be welded to the ring they screw into and would just rotate in the crank/chainring hole. I did try to use the Shimano slotted tool to hold the bolt ring in place, but I needed to apply so much force to try to (unsuccessfully) part the bolt from the threaded ring that it kept slipping and starting to round off the slot in the threaded ring.
Interestingly the Shimano tool was useful to prevent the bolts from spinning when I was drilling them out! It did take me a day or two of more Googling before I finally resorted to drilling out the bolts. The guy I bought the replacement matching crankset from suggested heating with a cake torch (concentrated/focused small hot flame), but that didn't help for these bolts and just burned off the oil that I had used to try to loosen them overnight.
The trick on turning the chainring is useful to know for the future for a quick fix for a skipping chainring on a long ride!
It'll work on the smallest chainring as they don't have the shifting pins and ramps, or on a singlespeed set up for the same reason but not or normal doubles or triples as the pins and ramps will then be on the wrong side. OK for an emergency maybe, but I can't see that severe degradation happening during a ride.
Chainrings are one of those items that seem very expensive compared to the whole chainset, especially when something along the line of Sora, so usually just cheaper and easier to buy a new complete chainset although see the problem in trying to buy a new 2006 model chainset!
Primo collected the exact rings you were after this morning (Sora A-42 and A-52), ta for the Dairy Milk! 🙂
I do have the matching cranks if needed and could probably find the 30 ring if needed.
Let me know if you need anything else, have a few bits and bobs.
Primo collected the exact rings you were after this morning (Sora A-42 and A-52), ta for the Dairy Milk! 🙂
I do have the matching cranks if needed and could probably find the 30 ring if needed.
Let me know if you need anything else, have a few bits and bobs.
@rootes - thank you for this, and for a message closing the circle! Enjoy the chocolate!!
I think I'm OK for now, but never know what the future will bring.
It just goes to show that even though eBay has been depleted of bike parts and bikes recently, there is still an un-tapped source in garages, sheds and under beds across the land. 🙂
It’ll work on the smallest chainring as they don’t have the shifting pins and ramps, or on a singlespeed set up for the same reason but not or normal doubles or triples as the pins and ramps will then be on the wrong side. OK for an emergency maybe, but I can’t see that severe degradation happening during a ride.
@tthew - Understood that flipping one with ramps and pins will not work the same, but should still work to get you home. I did have a middle chainring on my MTB where I had replaced a very worn chain and cassette, but not the chainring and 10kmfrom the end of a 100km ride after working flawlessly up some steep hills it started skipping so badly I had to use the outer chainring to finish. Strange and unusual, but it can happen!
These guys made a middle chain ring for me:
https://www.projection-components.co.uk/
The 58PCD x 5 was not listed as they had not made one before, but I sent them a drawing and they made it. This is the actual part they made, now listed on the web page:
https://www.bikepunx.com/5x58-bcd-chainrings-233-c.asp
Good service, good price, good communications. Will use them again, and well recommended from me.
It meant that I could rescue my town/pub/winter road bike (an all steel 1990's Dawes with Shimano 400CX groupset).
New middle chain ring,
NOS HG70 hyperglide cassette,
New chain,
Tacxx jockey wheels ( https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s222p1103/TACX-Jockey-Wheels)
New cables
Equally as good as new. Must be another 25 years of life left in that bike.
As yes, one other thing.
Put a smear of copperslip on the chain ring bolts. Will never seize up!
@drnosh - interesting, and good to know. When you say drawing is that an engineering drawing/file with sub-mm perfect measurements?
I have already put copperslip grease on the bolts, I'm not going through the hassle of drilling bolts again if I can help it! I think the chainrings are original from the 2006-ish bike, because I just hadn't used it that much.
I hope you enjoy riding your back-from-the-dead bike!
So, it was a 'sketch' rather than an engineering drawing (that I could have done if required).
Number of teeth
PCD,
5 hole,
Hole diameter,
Inner diameter to clear the crank, and smaller 'granny' ring.
They have the CAD software to make up the file for laser cutting.
This is the item:
[url= https://i.postimg.cc/pdJtDRZs/Dawes-Chainring-5x58-BCD-32-T-2mm.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/pdJtDRZs/Dawes-Chainring-5x58-BCD-32-T-2mm.jp g"/> [/img][/url]