You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
I’ve just fitted a brand new Hunt front wheel which is of the boost variety. It’s one of those where it has caps on either side to extend the wheel out to the correct width.
The wheel has a small amount of play in it that I can’t seem to do anything about. Anybody have any idea what I’m doing wrong?
I’m 75% certain that the issue is not with the headset but I could be wrong about that.
Side to side or up and down?
What type of axle? could be its not providing the zero endfloat it should- can happen with incorrectly set up maxles. Maybe with other types as well
Side to side play? As in, with the bike upside down, can you wiggle it side to side? Or fore/ aft play as in, brake on and rock the bike back and forward?
Edit: Too slow
Have you got the tension on the maxle lever set right? There's usually a tiny set screw under the lever that adjusts the amount of clamping force with the lever closed.
Mine always had a habit of loosening off and it would result in side to side play even with the lever fully closed.
It will be an axle issue - its not providing the clamping force required - is it bottoming on the threads? Pics might help
It looks like I've ended up overtightening the maxle now I take it out as the thread is starting to mangle at the end. I've had issues with these maxles previously. Guess I'll have to try a different axle
argh Burgtec are out of stock of the axle I need as it wasn't a boost variant after all. Are there any other good places to get a decent one?
I’m now completely confused. Burgtec website states that the non boost variant of the axle is the one needed for the boost fork as it’s a Rockshox SID (the fork is boost after all)
Have you got a different wheel that you can fit? Do to still get play?
why does it have to be burgtec? Can you not just get a 15x110mm rockshox maxle from CRC or tredz? As long as the length and thread pitch is correct then you can get one that uses a lever as opposed to one that needs an Allen key?
If it's the maxle that came with the fork it shouldn't be an issue, don't overtighten, sounds like the bearings are dodgy, I had that issue with a nukeproof generator hub years ago, it had play side to side from new, feeling like a loose cup n cone Shimano hub, I put some Enduro bearings in and the play went away.
@jonnyboi the burgtec axles are so much better and they cost less. I’ve got one on order.
Why would a burgtec axle be so much better than a rockshox one? Both my rockshox forks came with stealth axles and there’s really nothing to go wrong.
I can’t remember with hunt front wheels whether there’s any bearing pre-load to be sorted. My rear hunt road wheel has some adjustment that occasionally needs doing.
@bens tried with a different wheel and have the same issue so going back to idea of the axle being the problem here.
@joebristol the Burgtec axles use a slightly better quality material (imo) though they weigh a tiny bit more they are not so easy to round off at the head (not really an issue on the ones with a lever).
They also have a hex at each end so if you do bork one end you can still get your wheel out without having to have another tool.
Fair enough. Never mangled a stealth maxle / the ones on my road bike. Always do them up with a torque wrench and only use decent Allen keys.
It's a brand new wheel? Shouldn't you be asking Hunt to sort it?
Or whoever sold it to you...
@joebristol I learned the hard way and now only ever use the park tool for the job.
So this turned to be a problem with the Maxle as supplied by Rockshox. It doesn’t quite sit flush and wouldn’t hold the wheel in its place, I know this for certain now as the burgtec equivalent arrived today and it’s a perfect fit, absolutely no l play coming from anywhere.
That’s not to say that a non defective Rockshox Maxle wouldn’t have worked but I’m astounded that the fork was supplied with a defective part.
appreciate all the help as usual and apologies to Hunt for slandering their wheel in the title of this post.