[Closed] How to remove a crank arm when threads are knackered!

What type of crank/bottom bracket, and what threads are bust?

try pedaling around without the end bolt it should work its way loose,or try a ball joint remover but be very carefull round the frame area.If it is square taper??

The threads are the ones on the crank arm , tried putting a tool in to remove but it must be solid because it pushed the tool out of the threads even though it was tight! Its also a square tapered bb

Ball joint remover? What's that

be very carefull with this i used this on a old frame
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0012M7NFA/ref=asc_df_B0012M7NFA2117862?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B0012M7NFA
i would try removing the end bolt and going for a spin

Since the crank is fubared now, hacksaw and a cold chisel...

Remove the pedal, point the stuck crank arm straight down (6 o'clock) and hit the inside/outside with a mallet until the arm works loose.

What type of crank remover have you used? I knackered the threads using a cheap on, but a mates Park one was able to find enough purchase to get the crank off.

Worth trying though!

Assuming that the thread is dead, you have a couple of options, all of which I've used successfully. If the crank thread is very knackered, you can't use it again, so:

a) use a hammer to hit it close to the axle, put weight onto pedal end to try to force it off straight. Have somebody support the frame and rest the BB shell against wood blocks.

b) cut through the crank (saw) at a point that will cut across the hole for the axle, this relieves the tension and lets you tap it off

c) use a gear puller or similar as mentioned above. This is best for nicer/more delicate/more valuable frames.

d) ride it with the end bolt loose as mentioned, but be very careful and stay seated!

Have fun 🙂

Daveob a cheap o one im afraid!

if riding around on it doesn't work it loose, use a big hammer, don't do little tappy taps, use a couple of big blows. obviously this will damage the crank arm and possibly the BB threads and frame, but who has a bearing puller or ball joint remover????
has worked for me in the past with rubbish square taper BBs

i did this last night. i used a ball joint breaker (you know, for car track rod ends) and it came off with no stress at all, easy peasy. put the bolt into the end of the bb so you have something to press against

but who has a bearing puller or ball joint remover????

They cost very little and may be worth buying depending on the frame. Point taken on the hammer though 😉

me, but who has a bearing puller or ball joint remover????

You dont?

Thats the problem with cycle mechanics (amateur or professional), the most exciting tool they own is a chain-whip.

I had to do this a couple of times on a pair of middleburns. I basically used a hammer and brute force to get them off. I imagine heating up the crank would help too but never had to resort to that.

You dont?

no, I tend to do 'maintenance' at midnight the day before a ride, so it's not easy to go out to my local halfords and pick one up. but... if they're that cheap, maybe I should.

Heating the crank up helps as aluminium will expand more than steel. Once heated, apply rubber mallet to back side of crank and it should come off no problem.

A GOOD LBS will have a stein tool to cut an oversize thread & remove the crank.

The old "ride it with the bolt out" is less likely to work on a RH crank, and is fairly certain to bugger the crank.

ball joint remover or two large cold chisels and a lump hammer. Require two people though. Second person to hold the second cold chisel.

Works brilliantly on N/D side square taper (and I assume but not tried it on ISIS too)

Remove the crank bolts (sounds like you already have.)
Remove the drive side crank
Attach BB tool to drive side and begn removal. BB will pull through until N/D crank is presssing on frame. Keeping removing BB slowly but surely. THis forces the N/D crank off the arm.

Done it once and worked fine. May not be recomended for carbon frames...

If it's drive side try one of the suggestions above.

12" Angle Grinder

Hang the bike up with some rope, so its free to swing. Big bar - socket set extension is ideal, positioned close to the axle as you can. Peice of cloth to stop it slipping if needed. Sharp smack with a lump hammer. If you do this with the bike on the ground it could do some damage. Having the bike free to swing should mean most of the force goes into the arm. Its worked for me in the past.

Ball joint splitter - easy, cheap, works.
Use heat as well

I suppose you could use the Poploc remote you should have posted to me a month ago. 😉

To give you some hope before you destroy your crank / frame / BB.
I did exactly the same with an Old Deore DX crank, used a cheap puller and it pulled the threads out of the crank.
Bought a decent Park crank puller and used the crank for another 15 years without issue (including removal at least once a year).

Drove home the point about not skimping on tools.

Methods I have used include.

Heat up the crank so it expands then hit the back of it with a mallet.
Hacksaw if you can be bothered.
Angle grinder if you cant. This is the most fun and fastest but you have to be very careful.
Crow bar. Leaver against the BB/BB shell to minimise frame damage.
Go for a local ride but keep the route short and do lots of laps. Avoid jumps drops and general danger.

Then replace it with a HT2 crankset. They are by far the most simple and reliable design I have used.

A quick point here, if you've got an Icetoolz crank pulled, it works fine for octalink cranks.
Tried using it on a square taper crank and it wouldn't budge it.
Turned out that I needed to remove the little silver cap from the business end of the puller - It's held on magnetically.
If you did the same and were stronger (or more bloody-minded) than me, then that would explain the threads being stripped.

As Cynic-Al.

You could also have the arm helicoiled and then use a decent puller.

If removal is required to replace the bottom bracket my favoured method is angle grinder with superfine 1mm disc, slice the axle, takes 10 seconds, the bit in the crank always knocks out easily. Nothing is then damaged except the worn out BB, effective and very quick.

I've occasionally used this technique before risking ripping the threads out on a good but stuck crank.

No good if you wish to save the BB.