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My 2013 ish Revelations have the poplock remote.
It's never worked that well. Lately it's been stuck fortunately in the open position.
So I've had a go at getting it working but now it wont stay open. Just springs back to lock out.
I've budged it with a bit of cable and the grub screw to lock it open for now.
Any options for swapping the pop lock to the non remote type arrangement?
I have a set of old recons with the non remote but presume that is a less good damper and I'd have to swap the lot out.
Don't want to spend lots as I'm planning on new forks at some point soon.
I bodged a "conversion" on an old pair of (I think) Revelations.
IIRC, there's a spring that holds the lockout on, the remote holds it off against the spring pressure. You have to get in there and unhook the spring. This means you can rotate the top by hand (screw in a suitable bolt with the largest head you can find to use as a handle).
Problem is, there is nothing to hold it open / closed and it will just rotate freely. So I cut a disc of inner tube to the same size as the top of the assembly, unscrewed the top and popped the disc of rubber in there and screwed the top back on. Basially using friction to keep the lockout open or closed. Worked fine.
Am fairly sure I found instructions online for releasing the spring.
HTH
Si
Might have been this I used as a guide...
https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/switching-poploc-knob-rs-revelation-436769.html
Si
Cheers scc999 I'll have a butcher's later in the week.
I'm playing around converting my 26er revs to 29er using the recon lowers on the rev uppers.
Currently got my 26er stumpy evo running 29er "rev-cons" with 29 front wheel and 26 rear.
I really should just buy that Cotic flaremax I demoed, but enjoying the experimentation at the moment.
You need a new MoCo cartridge as the gubbins aren't seperate. Most plump for the conversion the other way so asking a suspension servicer would be my approach, they must have loads kicking about.
Scc999 seems to have the standard set of instructions. There is also a version around with photos which is a bit easier to follow but the trick seems to be to unhook the internal spring that forces it closed
Might be of help, not sure if its the same. Peter Poddy's conversion guide -
Thanks all.
Working away for a couple of days so will get on it on Weds morning.
Simply unlocking a spring sounds ideal.
I've been riding with them unlocked for a few weeks with no problems so the aim will be to set them unlocked and leave them like that.
Well that worked a treat.
Thanks for the links above, and to Peter Poddy's pics.
I re-used the existing cable operated top knob with a couple of layers of inner tube washers under it for enough friction to keep it in position. So I still have all the adjustments as before, just on the top cap.
A test in anger tomorrow night.
Stick a cap head bolt in the cable retention grub screw hole of the spoil as knob to give you purchase too 😉