How much would a LB...
 

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[Closed] How much would a LBS charge to convert wheels to boost?

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I’ve got a pair of Hope pro4s in 142mm and 100mm flavour but my new frame and forks are boost.

What’s a reasonable amount to pay to get them converted? Or am I better off flogging them and buying a new set?


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 9:32 pm
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You can fit the Hope kit very easily yourself, just a different end cap and a disc spacer. I have it on my rear wheel on one bike.


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 9:39 pm
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It's about £30 for the Hope adapter kit to do both ends, you just pop the adapters in and then redish the wheel. So probably £60 all in?


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 9:55 pm
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Don’t you need to re-dish as well though?


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 9:55 pm
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Yes but you're talking a couple of turns with a spoke key. It only needs to move by a few mm.


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 9:58 pm
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Thanks where my trust in my abilities falls down...


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 9:59 pm
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If using the hope kits the rear doesn't need a redish.


 
Posted : 22/01/2019 10:21 pm
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I wouldn’t ask an LBS to install an end cap conversion.


 
Posted : 23/01/2019 1:43 am
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I don’t think an lbs would charge a huge amount to re-dish a wheel as long as it’s already straight and true. Maybe something like £15 tops I’d have thought. You can change the end caps yourself - I think with hope you just pull out the old ones and push in the new ones - probably just held in with friction. I’m sure when I was building my wheels with pro4’s I accidentally knocked one of them out.

In terms of re-dishing it’s pretty easy. You could put the wheel in the frame and setup some zip tires to the lengths needed for the wheel to be in the middle of the dropouts (once you’ve changed the end caps. If the wheel needs to go to the right for example you’d start by the valve and tighten each spoke coming from the right hand side of the hub say quarter of a turn until you get back to the valve. Then loosen every spoke coming from the left hand side of the hub quarter of a turn. Repeat until the wheel is in the middle.


 
Posted : 23/01/2019 6:14 am
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If you want to avoid any redish then get the MRP kit (or fun works at less ££) for the front. It replaces both end caps and has a disc spacer (the hope kit just replaces non disc cend cap and needs a redish). Then use the hope kit for the rear. The only downside of the rear hope kit is that the cassette isn't in the optimal position, however with non-boost spaced cranks this doesn't matter.


 
Posted : 23/01/2019 8:15 am
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I'd get one of the kits with the proper end caps that does require a dish- that way you've got proper boost chainline and no spacers to fall out when fixing a puncture on the side of a trail (even tubeless systems fail sometimes).

A re-dish as above would be about £15.

Get the kit, fit the end caps and rotor spacers and then take the wheel for a re-dish.


 
Posted : 23/01/2019 9:38 am
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The point in my suggestion was to avoid the redish and to make future wheel sale easier. Both kits suggested are.proper end caps not spacers. If kit is being moved from old bike then the boost chain line is not that relevant.


 
Posted : 23/01/2019 11:29 am

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