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Shimano gear. No chain device fitted.
Just changing from 30 front/ 11-40 rear to 32 front/ 11-46, first things, definitely not a good look!
Seem to have it set up pretty well, but I'd like to get rid of another link or 2, whats the feeling on chain growth in lowest gear?, in this case 46 tooth. I've got the medium cage derailleur pretty much horizontal (on 46 tooth) with clutch engaged (but not at the max of it's leverage) and on full sag. I don't really want to go tighter at this point, but how realistic is it that I'm going to get anywhere near full sag in that low gear? I'll rarely use that gear anyway, chain line makes it pretty noisy anyway.
I have 1.5" of slack in top gear at about 70% sag, I feel like that's going to be noisy. Any thoughts experience?
I had my LBS fit the previous gears as I was having difficulty getting them good. I was getting the chain drop off the big cog if i pedalled backwards. They got it sorted, but I didn't ask how they did it.
I'd nip down there to get this latest stuff sorted, but they're booked up for a while (i did give them a month to order all the bits for me, they didn't come through). I have the same chain dropping off the 46 tooth when pedalling backward. The chain is the right way round, but it's like the chain line is so offline with this massive ring, the chain starts to derail at 6 o'clock on the 46 ring.
i feel like my days of having a dialled bike are over:-)
Pull your shock and you can set your chain length fully compressed.
32 oval and 10-45 (one-up) gives only a small amount of tension in 10t and close to 'tight as ****' in 45T, but I'm very unlikely to hit full compression in 45T so I'm ok with that.
I spaced my 34T oval inboard 2mm, and the 32T oval comes 2mm inboard as designed.
tweak b-tension to suit but you need to start with a better chainline as I was not happy with a the chainline given when mounting the 34 to the spider.
Backpedal chain drop off expanded 11spd has been reported, but I have no issues with this. No issues with chain drop without clutch engaged either.
Cheers for that. I did discharge the shock to set up chain length, so I might try your 'tight as ^^^^' method. I'll have a look at spacing the chainring inboard a tad too, just got to keep that to gear silent as priority.
Sounds to me like you need a long cage mech!
I slap it on the smallest sprockets and make sure the chain doesn't rub on itself when passing through the mech.
Well I tried taking another link out, but the derailleur got so horizontal in 46 tooth that the chain wouldn't even contact the inner jockey wheel. Any attempt to ride would've surely broken the chain or mech. I've put a link back in so I'll see if it's as quiet tomorrow night. Brilliant having a bigger top gear though
Shimano say 46 tooth is okay with med cage, but I'm sure long cage would be easier.
I've been pondering this recently. I think, particularly on long travel bikes, a long cafe mech makes more sense for 1x11 setups. My chain is optimised for full travel in 42/30 but I'm getting chain slap in 10/30.
I'll be fitting an 11-46 to the wife's bike soon which I imagine, will only make matters worse.
Had a good blast out today and sure enough, there's a fair bit of chain slap freewheeling over roots etc. My Straitline silent guide won't fit anymore unless I buy a new 34 tooth back plate, so I've ordered a Bionicon chain tensioner which might just take enough slack up whilst leaving enough length to use the 46 tooth.
Anyone reading this wondering whether a medium cage will work with 34 front and 11-46 rear, it does, but maybe a long cage might be better.
One thing I noticed when I took my 40 tooth cassette off was that the lbs hadn't pushed the mech right up to its stop on the hanger. I reckon this was intentional as when I fitted it initially, it was definitely pushed up. Maybe this helps out with the B screw length? I might check it out tomorrow, maybe it could be used to shorten the chain half a link?