 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
i know it's a stupid question,but i really love my new duster mid bike,and want to look after the frame (and stop it from rusting e.t.c).what is a good way of protecting it from water collecting/rusting tubes from inside.if i ride in the rain should i take the seat and post out of the bike and let is dry naturally in a warm room (after washing the bike) so that any water can evaporate e.t.c.or is there anything that i could spray down the seat tube as a protecting agent?thanks in advance 🙂
Every now and then I spray WD40 down my seat tube and any other openings in that area.
As it's a water dispersant (hence Wd) i cant see any reason why it wouldnt help.
I'm sure some one will be along soon to shoot me down and tell me I'm killing my frame but hey!
Waxoyl. It's specifically made for coating the inside of steel things.
my hummingbird (like all steel singulars) came fully preped when new with J.P Weigle Framesaver treatment - i dont have to work about it much.
[url= http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?plid=m12b3s403p39 ]http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?plid=m12b3s403p39[/url]
JP Weigle framesaver seems to get good reviews. There are a few other rust inhibitors yusually sold for cars and boats allegedly.
Waxoyl is way too thick for coating the inside of a frame - I tried.
Do you need to do anything at all? If you do nothing it should last a good 30/40 years, and will you have it that long?
More likely a mountainbike will rust from external damage. Most of the old ones seem to go along the top tube...God knows why.
I've got a 54 year old 531 frame still going strong. Still on it's original paint, or what's left of it and it's never as far as I know been treated. So I wouldn't worry.
Then again there's no harm is squirting protection down the tubes.
Worth remembering that if you use Waxoyl, it'll cause problems if you ever get a respray done at a later date(the stoving process will cause it to melt, run out, and mix with the still soft paint).
JPs Frame saver is great. We sell it in the shop. But it's so damned exsplosive that its almost illegal to post it.
Traditionally an 853 sticker would be enough to keep a STW forum user's bike safe from rust.
http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?plid=m12b3s403p39JP Weigle framesaver seems to get good reviews. There are a few other rust inhibitors yusually sold for cars and boats allegedly.
Waxoyl is way too thick for coating the inside of a frame - I tried.
In the car world Dinitrol is the thing, far better than waxoyl as it is thin and creeps better..
seems strangely similar to frame saver but obviously as it is not a bike product is cheaper:
Dinitrol ML
http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/categoryid/30/list/1/level/a/productid/9561.aspx
you can also get a 60cm nozzle extend to go down inside tubes etc
decent car places sell it which if you find one local you can save the postage which for some of these type of products can be high
you can use waxoyl, but you need to thin it alot, make sure it is warm, make sure the frame is warm etc in order to get it to coat and also not clag up - better to just use dinitrol
also make sure you do not get it in your hair - major ball ache to get it out again!
BUT why bother at all, suspect most frame will be obsolete, damaged, replace by something better long before they rust out..
Just clean it. i think my duster is made of scaffold (its not that lightweight) so should last a very long time before it rusts through.
When it does go rusty i'm just getting it resprayed
[i] i think my duster is made of scaffold[/i]
😀
Done nothing to my Handjob. Seems happy enough.
fix and fill foam will make it indestructable and imperveous to rust and all water ingress....
'disclaimer' the above information just may not be factually correct.
Mine gets spray oil in the frame tubes. Whatever I have to hand
I've broken mine well before it even thought of rusting through, and that's even with On-One's notoriously rubbish paint.
Another WD40er here as well.
If the bike has been subjected to a long wet event or dunked in a river then whip out the seat post and BB to let it dry and drain.
Whenever i have the frame stripped down (fork off/BB off)then it gets a healthy dose of WD40 in all the tubes, leave it for a few days then mop up excess and rebuild.
Done this with 853 Superfly styler, Sanko 4130 Charge blender, Daytona Atomlab. Not much effort involved, just common sense really, if you have a steel frame and it gets wet inside, just take parts off and dry and spray.
I tend to have the frame stripped a few times a year so its no problem to just spray then. I think i am overdoing it, but hey a minute of time to WD40 is nothing. Some people have steel frames for years with never doing a thing to them. Theres lots to choose from, and Coastkid has been riding a steel pugsley on the salty beachs of scotland for a few years and his frame hasnt died.
thanks everyone 😀 will do the wd 40 route i think for the moment (am loving going back to a steel ht 😀
Is there a drain hole under the BB? if not maybe an idea to drill one
a cheaper, lighter, stiffer aluminium frame solves the problem
BB drain hole will save your BB bearings 😉
I just sold on a pugsley frame with over 4500 miles of beachriding which was not proofed and its ok inside, just for hindsight though i proofed the replacement frame as holding onto this for a while 🙂
[url= http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6027/5923003460_13a21411ee_z.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/coastkid71/5923003460/ ]pugsley[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/coastkid71/ ]coastkid71[/url], on Flickr
This may help convince you.
[url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/will-i-die-wierd-frame-issue-content ]HOLEY MOLEY[/url]