How do I remove thi...
 

  You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more

[Closed] How do I remove this very old BB without "doing a Kryton?"

22 Posts
14 Users
0 Reactions
126 Views
Posts: 7544
Free Member
Topic starter
 

Just taken this to our LBS and he doesn't have the tool, so I may as well buy the tool myself (or, as he suggested, cut a groove for a chisel in then tap it round). Anyone got any idea what tool to buy and where from? It's from the early 60's. The other side is different but the LBS says he can get it out once the cup below is removed using an expander tool thing.

I have a feeling a pin spanner would be the "correct" tool but also a feeling that they would be less than useless, based on previous experience with them.

[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1_NIWCFAStn3BT9b9YRoroHMdHpxUkoBQq8SnDBOFuMt=w879-h495-no [/img]


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:46 pm
Posts: 8819
Free Member
 

Undo the grease port, pour in nitroglycerine, hit with a hammer


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:50 pm
Posts: 41395
Free Member
 

There's nothing other than a pin spanner that will work AFAIK.

I'd be sawing flats in it and getting it on a vice.

It is seized, yes?


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:52 pm
Posts: 13240
Free Member
 

I think you would be quicker getting a tool made.
Flat plate with holes and hard pins.
If you don't want to re-use the BB ,you could even tack weld it on and then [b]THWACK[/b] it 🙂


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:52 pm
Posts: 8819
Free Member
 

cut the axle so it drops out (assuming it will and isn't held in by races on the axle or sumink), tap the pin holes put in screws so thety are 10mm proud of the face and use a bar to turn?


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:55 pm
Posts: 92
Free Member
 

You've already removed the lock-ring from that right?
If so, the remaining cup should be loose. It's the one used with a pin spanner to adjust the bearings.
If it's seized, the usual remedys apply. Heat, oil, brute force.
Filing flats and putting it in the vice or welding it are last resorts, but the most likely to be sucessful. Good advice.

Actually it might be easier to take the other side out first if you can?


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:58 pm
Posts: 27603
Full Member
 

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 12:58 pm
Posts: 7544
Free Member
Topic starter
 

The lockring has been removed.

The axle must be saved unfortunately, it's a non-standard size and I need it for the replacement BB.

Removing the greaseports is also proving problematic as they don't fit anything in my spanner set!

Al- not sure if it's seized as I don't have a pin spanner, however I'll buy one then have a crack and if that doesn't work move onto the more "brutal" suggestions in the thread.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:08 pm
Posts: 80
Free Member
 

what you need is a tool like the Tune or Royce one, but with the correct pin pattern, if if doesn't easily undo with a pin spanner I'd be getting a tool made and doing it properly before trying more destructive options

[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:13 pm
Posts: 13240
Free Member
 

Have you tried using a punch in one of the pin holes to see if it might budge ?
One already looks a bit opened out.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:15 pm
Posts: 7544
Free Member
Topic starter
 

fasthaggis- I'll try that tonight. Or sneak out the office now and do it in the car park...

I should add that this must be done by the end of next week as it is going to be painted and must be back, painted and built by the start of September for a wedding. How quick could an engineers make a tool do we think?


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:19 pm
Posts: 7670
Free Member
 

If it's seized I'd do a variant of something suggests up there ^

Drill a couple of the weedy pin holes out and tap to M8. Put a couple of grade 8.8 bolts in and use them with a bar between to twist it out...or weld the bar on.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:19 pm
Posts: 0
 

Yeah I would try a punch and hammer.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:20 pm
Posts: 12507
Free Member
 

If that's steel in steel I'd be getting a torch on it until it loosened off


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:24 pm
Posts: 7544
Free Member
Topic starter
 

Punch in hammer worked nicely- didn't think it'd have enough purchase but that side is now out, thanks.

The other side is more problematic but I whacked it twice before thinking "I should make sure it's not Italian threaded". Do we reckon a British built bike marketed as a "lightweight" from the early 60's would be anything other than British ISO thread?


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:31 pm
Posts: 13240
Free Member
 

How quick could an engineers make a tool do we think?

A bit of decent flat plate,dowel pins and a reamer .

If they like you _30 mins 🙂


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 1:36 pm
Posts: 3588
Full Member
 

Italian is bigger diameter I think - just check the diameter / thread in the cup you've removed. If it same as a regular BB then I'd guess (?) the other side will be a regular LH thread.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 2:36 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

weld a log bit of angle iron on to the cup to give plenty of leverage


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 3:48 pm
Posts: 92
Free Member
 JoeG
Posts: 0
Full Member
 

[url= http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html ]What Sheldon says on the matter.[/url]


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 4:46 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

It will either be the current 24tpi or the age old Raleigh 26tpi.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 6:21 pm
Posts: 41395
Free Member
 

Won't be Italian.

If you don't have the proper tool for the DS a BIG nut and bolt through the cup will screw it off as you tighten it.

What are you using for new cups?


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 6:30 pm
Posts: 7544
Free Member
Topic starter
 

The LBS can get a new BB for it, minus the axle. However the cup has come out neatly so I may try and reuse them.


 
Posted : 31/07/2015 8:42 pm

6 DAYS LEFT
We are currently at 95% of our target!