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Shimano M786 front mech is rubbing on the swing arm of SC Nomad, frame routing is for is top pull.
1x?
I wondered how long it would take someone to suggest that 🙂
Not wanting to go 1x yet as I've only just got the bike nearly ready to ride and the wheel set is 10sp.
This on is M786, it had an M785 on which had the cable fix point the other side so no issues there, but the chain ran along the bottom of the mech in certain gear combinations. The crankset is M785 38-26, and there is a 34/11 on the back, puzzled...
****. How annoying
Don't think i've ever seen a nomad running 2x up front. No ideas, good luck!
Bottom swing, top-pull mech like a XT M8025 or one of the new side-swing models? Ask as your LBS, they've probably encountered this type of issue before
This is the issue with the 785 mech.
It only happens in the front inner ring and higher gears, but I thought the other mech would resolve it.
https://instagram.com/p/BkdGLrznHYT/
Cable routing isn’t an problem though. Anyone with another option?
The new M8000 front-pull mechs have all the mechanism in front of the seat tube, maybe worth a try? You run full-length outer to them so cable routing can be more flexible.
Not a terribly helpful answer I know! 😛 But depending on the type terrain around you, 1x might be a better option. A wide range Sunrace cassette and wolflink will probably not cost much more than a new front shifter (it you can even find one that works with your frame). I'm not a 1x evangelist, but it would really suit a bike like the Nomad.
Yeah I understand, but I live in Sierra de Nieves so thinking the area range is needed. It's a second hand frame and came with the 785 on it, but a smaller chain rings rings on the front.
Would the M8000s be ok the 38-26 range?
Looking at the newer options, they're either direct mount or 11 speed.
Does the nomad ever get specced with a front mech? If so can you check what spec front mech it runs?
I don't think 10 or 11 speed really matters on front mechs, could be wrong but I was using a 9 speed one on an 11 speed setup on one bike with no issues and my commuter running 8 speed currently has an old 10 speed front mech on it.
The FD-M8020 should work. Otherwise the Deore FD-M6020 would be the obvious option as it's 10 speed and the cable routing goes into the front of it.
The M8000 mechs are only specced for a 10 tooth difference, so might struggle with 38/26. I think that’s true for the new SLX and Deore side-swings too.
Change the 26/38 for a 26/36 and use the original mech in a slightly lower place?
Hmm, thanks for all the replies, I think this needs some thought
If you've got 38/26 up front, and what looks like 11-32t at the back, that's pretty much the same range as 1x with 11-46t at the back. You might need something like a wolflink to make the rear mech work, unless it's an 11 speed mech already.
I used to sell them back in the day - they needed the top-swing style mechs (where the band is below the cage rather than above).
In your pic where the chain is fouling the cage on the M785 mech (the correct type), isn’t that only an issue when you’re in 26/11 and the bike is unsagged? Should be fine in use when you have plenty sag, and you won’t be in that gear combo anyway?
Clutching at straws here, can't really see due to the photo angle but could you get something to bring the cable further down the seat tube? If the mech is fouling the swingarm you've got a bigger problem..
As above did the old mech rub when you ride it or just in the stand.
Specialized full sus used to a proper pain for rubbing in the workstand but fine when ridden and the rear end sagged a bit
Can you lower the original front mech frame clamp? That would then leave a gap between chain and mech...
Can you lower the original front mech frame clamp? That would then leave a gap between chain and mech…
It's as low as it can go, but shifting is still not great. Strange really as its the same groups as the chains, but seems to be struggling with the 26038 difference.
I used to sell them back in the day – they needed the top-swing style mechs (where the band is below the cage rather than above).
In your pic where the chain is fouling the cage on the M785 mech (the correct type), isn’t that only an issue when you’re in 26/11 and the bike is unsagged? Should be fine in use when you have plenty sag, and you won’t be in that gear combo anyway?
Yeah I think so, my first full-sus so gonna give it a go with this anyway. Shifting with this mech is clunky, but I think thats due to it being worn than anything else.
As above did the old mech rub when you ride it or just in the stand.
Specialized full sus used to a proper pain for rubbing in the workstand but fine when ridden and the rear end sagged a bit
Makes sense, I hadn't thought of that 🙂
Guess you have now already a collection of different front mech stuff...
I used the new M6000 Deore side swing (2x10). (different bike so)
Front 24+34, rear 11...42 (mountain goat set up... ratio 24/42 = 0.57 - that's fantastic!)
Cable routing for the front mech is along the downtube then. Secured the (spiral-) cable with cable ties.
But luck is needed...the front mech clears the chain stay only by 2 mm or so (full suspension bike).
Good luck!
Personally I'd ditch the 38/26 combo and run something like a 34/24T combo instead (unless you're a super fit xc racer dude, or have lots of fast fireroad descents). You'll find you're in the bigger ring much more of the time so no need to run the small ring in those lower cogs.
Cross clamp with bottom pull routing?
l.e. Actually yours seems to be top pull only, you could still use the pulley above the derailleur just to deflect the cable.
