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I vaguely remember someone on here doing this.
A rough idea of parts and complexity would be appreciated.
Cheers
Never had one in bits but if it can be emptied of the stuff inside the case would probably make a good host for some sort of led conversion .
Yep, I've done a few, plenty of room inside for a heatsink & control board.
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Rik, you'll need a mate who's a dab hand with a soldering iron. 😉
I might be intetested in converting mine too.
Keith.
I've got a banjaxed HID with a broken bulb. I've been quoted £70:00 for a repair by Hope. I am thus VERY interested to know more about a LED conversion.
ambrose - i have just had a bulb replaced by hope
£6 postage each way, and about thirty quid as they do a replacement policy.
i rang one guy at hpe, and he said it could be about £80, then another guy said thirty,
came back at £36
i have the vision 4 led for my bike
bought the hid when it came out, and that is now on helmet duty
brilliant set up with the 4led on the bars, you get the width and depth using both.
Hey Snaps, that's good news; so what parts do I need to make it work and where can they be found?
Hi Keef ; what about a curry, beer and soldering eveing in your shed?? (I'm sure the girls can entertain themselves with baby chat)
As bangin on says...
so what parts do I need to make it work and where can they be found?
Sounds like a plan Rik.
You need a triple or quad LED board, (MR11 or 35mm for the Hope) [url= http://www.cutter.com.au/categories.php?cat=Cree+Leds+on+Printed+Circuit+Boards ]Here[/url] or [url= http://www.led-tech.de/ ]Here[/url] basically XPE will give you better spot beam, XPG a better flood beam.
An optic or reflector that suits your LED board to shape your beam.
A control board like [url= http://www.taskled.com/b2flex.html ]This[/url] for full featured or cheap like [url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Power-LED-Driver-830mA-Output-8-24V-DC-Input-Solder-/250768113043?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a62f1bd93#ht_1275wt_905 ]This[/url]
And an aluminium heatsink - you'll have to make this yourself, but its just a round bit of bar to mount the LED board on that transfers the heat to the case of the light.
A switch (depends on your control board)
Then its just a case of soldering six wires from LED board, battery & switch to your control board (follow the wiring instructions for the board)
Check [url= http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=124 ]MTBR DIY light forum[/url] of [url= http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=86 ]Candlepowerforums [/url] bicycle section for more details.
Brilliant!! (did you see what I did there?! 🙂 )
Can I use the nicely waterproofed switch that is already on the Hope unit?
Ans I see that there seems to be an option with the posher controller to have a status LED. Is it just a case of drilling a hole in the casing and then sealing it in with eg silicone?
You can use the existing switch if you just want on/off, but if you want Hi/Lo or are using the Taskled driver board you'll need a different switch.
Ans I see that there seems to be an option with the posher controller to have a status LED. Is it just a case of drilling a hole in the casing and then sealing it in with eg silicone?
Yes, that right.
[url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/lumicycle-halogen-to-led-conversion-with-piccies-and-a-step-by-step-guide ]This thread[/url] has loads of info although the host lamp unit is different, the same steps apply.
Cheers Snaps...all good stuff
Having looked at the http://www.led-tech.de/en/index.html site I can see some 7 LED 35 mm boards available. I'm assuming that this (or any other) board would need to be heat sinked (heatsunk?) to the shell of the lamp unit. Do I just copiously coat the rear of the LED board with thermal paste to thus link it to the Al lump. Do I then in turn fit this to the can using more paste?
Is a 7 LED headlamp a silly idea? Will I die?
Basically 4 XPGs should give you more light than a 960 lumen Hope 4 LED @ 1000mA but 7 will give about 2500 lumens.
Yes good thermal conductivity is needed & thermal paste together with a tight fitting heatsink is a must.
You'll not be able to run the 7 on a stock Hope battery @ 1000mA (you'll need a 4mAh battery minimum - Hope is only 2400) but 700mA will probably work & still give 1700+ lumens & you'll need a boost driver (I'm using Taskleds Maxflex in the pics below)
4 is good 7 is better but 7+4 is best 😉
You will not die*
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*possibly!
Have you got the dimensions for the Al heatsink perchance? 35mm diam x ?
OK- I've got a 14.8 V battery. i have ordered some paste too. And I've finally got around to ordering this stuff:
4 x Cree XREWHT-L1-1T-R5 on round PCB 1 24,90 €
LT-1625, CREE GT4-XP-G optic 32° 3,49 € 3,49 €
Can anyone suggest a resonable driver? Or offer one to me with much cheapness?
Heatsink needs to be 35mm ish (nice tight fit in your lamp body & the longer the better but mine work fine @ 11mm this pic shows a Marwi halogen conversion with 11mm heatsink.
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Taskleds bflex is perfect for your set up (although $32) the the BCT one will be cheaper (£6) but I've not used one with a quad LED board @ 14.8v