Hope Tech rims -- t...
 

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[Closed] Hope Tech rims -- tubeless rim tape

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I'm struggling to get a straight answer to this as different people seem to have different ideas. So perhaps a thread won't help, or perhaps I am just a naive tubeless novic and the answer is simple...

So, I have a couple of Hope Tech wheels -- one Enduro, one XC.  I've set them up tubeless, but struggled to get them to hold air at first and wonder if the way I'm taping the rim is a problem.

The rim bed looks like this:

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13807000/

My instinct, given how they look, was to just put a thin strip of tape around the central channel to seal the spoke holes. But I'm not sure if I'm wrong, and I should span the full internal width with tape, or even multiple layers of tape, to seal the rim and tyre-bead interface properly.

I've ended up doing the front with a thin strip and the back with a full-width strip (I did the front a while back and only did the back last night, when I was feeling a little more conservative I guess)

But if they actually need full-width tape with multiple layers -- and perhaps here I become particularly naive -- what the hell makes these anymore tubeless ready than a normal rim??


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 11:46 am
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I've done a few Hope XC rims. I use Gorilla tape that is the width of the rim. When I apply it I first press it down into the central channel then make sure it's pressed down at each side. Done this way the "too wide" tape ends up sitting nicely between the bead channels. I usually just use one wrap of tape except for the overlap by the valve.

Once you've fitted the tyre then you need to go for a ride to get the sealant well and truly spread around.

Even so, I've had some tyres stay inflated for a couple of days without sealant and others that won't even inflate. In the latter case I just retape as it will be that part that's gone wrong or I've moved the tape when getting the tyre on.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 12:03 pm
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When I did my i45 rims I started with 48mm tape but that's not so easy to get on dead straight so I ended up doing a 25mm strip over the spoke holes and then a 48mm over that. First time I've tried tubeless and my idea was that it was easier to get a good seal over the spoke holes with the 25 mm tape and then the 48mm tape would protect the edges of the 25mm tape from being lifted. I found though that the cutting the valve hole as cleanly as possible with a scalpel was the most important thing. As I say I'd never done tubeless before so it's just one experience and it may never work for me again!


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 12:05 pm
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My instinct, given how they look, was to just put a thin strip of tape around the central channel to seal the spoke holes. But I’m not sure if I’m wrong, and I should span the full internal width with tape, or even multiple layers of tape, to seal the rim and tyre-bead interface properly.

I do 1 layer of insulation tape, then 1 of Gorilla/Bird tape i don't do the full width on my Hopes.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 12:09 pm
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But if they actually need full-width tape with multiple layers — and perhaps here I become particularly naive — what the hell makes these anymore tubeless ready than a normal rim??

The shape of the rim, particularly the bead shelf. It's shaped and toleranced to allow the bead of the tyre to lock into place more securely than the rim profiles of yore (some of which will actually go tubeless with little or no issue)


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 12:15 pm
 PJay
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You'll probably get a variety of answers as people do things different ways and there is a degree of 'try and see what works for you' when it comes to tubeless.

I've not long gone tubeless (for the first time) with Hope XC wheels; conventional wisdom suggested that 19mm rim tape would be what was needed but it didn't work for me. My first attempt was with Schwalbe tape but I kept losing air; when I tried with 19mm Stans I couldn't get it to stick down (there didn't seem to be enough adhesion to counter the stiff tapes propensity to flatten itself over the curve of the rim bed).

In the end I took them to my LBS who also couldn't get the 19mm to stick/work either but successfully taped them with 21mm tape which fits bead to bead (apparently it's a tad more fiddly to fit) and, as the tyre bead sits on the edge of the tape, should stop the tape lifting and air escaping.

Make sure that the rims are clean and dry before applying the tape and some folk recommend keying the surface with emery cloth (although others don't).

Good luck; it can be a trial but well worth it in the long run.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 12:54 pm
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You need to get a tape that fits bead to bead.

I use stans and have done loads of hope wheels all without a problem

If you have an issue, send Hope a quick email asking what they recommend. They always reply in 24 hours or so.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 1:03 pm
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As above; Bird tape.

I tried Stans but got nowhere; it's too stiff to mould to the profile, and too wide to just sit in the well.

Bird worked first time and has never gone down again. You get a gurt roll for little cash, too.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 2:04 pm
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Used tesa tape x2 on mine. Here's what Hope said when I asked them about taping tech enduro rims.

Thank you for your email. We use No-Tubes 25mm rim tape, twice around pulled really tight, with the No-Tubes valves on the Enduro rims.
Kind regards


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 2:50 pm
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IME best tape results are edge-to-edge as the sealant can seep under the tape edge if exposed / one more place for air to escape. Stans / Tesa tape benefits from being warm as it's stretchier / stickier e.g. leave on radiator / use a hairdrier.  Also, make sure the rim bed is lightly abraded / clean e.g. emery paper and solvent / degreaser.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 3:39 pm
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I have just this second put a specialised butcher on a 29 hope tech endure wheel, both brand new. I used one strip of gorilla tape. I couldn't get the tyre to sit properly when I inflated it so I put some fairy liquid around the edges of the rim. The tyre then seemed to pop onto the rim ok when I inflated it so I took the core out and filled it with 70mm stands and inflated it to 40psi. I'll leave it overnight to see if it holds and I'll report back!


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 3:47 pm
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It turns out the sidewalls are leaking air 🙄


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 4:04 pm
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Tape needs to be wider than the rim by the time it goes down into the centre, eg 35mm tape on a 30mm rim (ish, will vary). Bead to bead so the tyre sits on the tubeless tape.

Really stretching it on helps it conform, I fit the wheel in a truing stand so I can pull it on hard enough to conform and get it straight.

Clean rim first, if everything is freezing the tape will be more brittle.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 6:36 pm
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I have a few pairs of Hope wheels, some of the Tech Enduro and 2 pairs of Tech 35w's. All running tubeless just with a single layer of Gorilla tape. 1 inch width I think. That filled the rim bead to bead on the Tech Enduro wheels, but doesn't on the 35w's but it still works fine.

Probably no great help, but as long as the spoke holes are covered and sealed then the rest probably comes down to tyre choice as some go easier than others. Personally I'm sticking with Maxxis as they seem to go on and stay up first time.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 7:04 pm
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what the hell makes these anymore tubeless ready than a normal rim??

The shape of the rim. Always use full width tape. I used to use 2 wraps but now only use one with a big overlap either side of the valve hole.

It turns out the sidewalls are leaking air

You need to get the sidewalls properly coated with sealant to seal them. Just putting sealant in,pumping them up and leaving them won't work. If you don't want to have to do this then buy UST tyres and not tubeless ready ones.


 
Posted : 28/02/2018 7:18 pm
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After I added some more sealant and made sure the tyre wall was coated, they stayed up overnight. Hope this helps!


 
Posted : 01/03/2018 1:05 pm

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