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There are plenty of other threads on this, but why not one more...
I have a Pro4 hub which had been on a bike with QR. I swapped wheels, which meant taking the 12mm adapters from a Pro2 wheel for the Pro4 and put the wheel in my Canyon Spectral (2015). Once the spindle was tightened (not ridiculously) the wheel pedalled OK but when back-pedalling, the cassette doesn't turn freely. Checked the usual things - seals seated properly, the spacer between the freehub and bearings is there. Emailed Hope in case of other advice but said, as I'd pointed out, it was fine before swapping bikes so "a bit odd".
So I'm wondering whether its somehow a Spectral thing - I seem to remember the same happened when I fitted the Pro2 wheel and can't remember if or how fixed - I think I might have just left the spindle done "firm but not night", which also seems to be the only way to get it working just now.
Bearings OK (were before bike swap)
Seal seated OK (double checked)
1mm spacer present
Anything else?
New Hope hub, chain suck when back pedalling, help please - Singletrack World Magazine
Cassette free hub tightens when wheel put on bike. - Pinkbike Forum
taking the 12mm adapters from a Pro2 wheel
Was the old hub Pro 2 or Pro 2 Evo? The latter uses the same end caps as Pro 4 but the former uses different ones.
Have you transferred the cassette over from the Spectral onto the Pro 4 wheel? i.e. is it something else (such as chain suck from differently worn drivetrain components) causing the issue..
Pro2 Evo. But I'm thinking the adapters have been the common denominator with two separate wheels having the same issue so maybe I'll try replacing them.
The cassette and chain came from the old bike but not very old, and its definitely the cassette "dragging" rather then the chain "clinging".
Thanks @frogstomp .
I vaguely remember reasambling a Hope Pro 4 rear hub and and I'd put the green seal on the wrong way around and that caused the freehub to drag.
I might be mistaken but seem to remember that there are different end caps for Shimano and Sram freehubs?
Maybe you got the wrong adaptor kit?
@singlespeedstu - the only difference it seems is that they were made 1mm narrower with the advent of XD so they fit, but compatible across both at that. I have the narrower of the two fitted but have tried both. Back to being stumped! Probably need to take it somewhere for someone more knowledgeable than I to take a look.
The drive side seal isn't pushed back into place properly. If its not seated the freehub sticks. Take the free hub back off and push the seal firmly into place.
@lagrinta, already have, but maybe there's even more to it. Will have another look 👍
Why have you got a spacer on the freehub (before the cassette goes on)? I've never used one (at least, not in the last 20 years, some old 8 speed cassettes needed a thin spacer). I currently run a hope pro 2 evo with a 12 speed microshift cassette - no need for that spacer?
Clearance, especially with 12 speed, can be very tight, are you sure your lock ring isn't actually touching the frame?
Details
Spacer for when using 9/10 speed cassettes on an 11 speed hub
Not sure if you've already said it's not the case but I've had this problem a couple of times and each time it was because I'd forgotten to fit the washer that sits between the freehub and wheel bearings.
the spacer between the freehub and bearings is there
Probably not this but the behind the freehub spacer for the Pro2 Evo and the Pro4 are also different I think.
Why have you got a spacer on the freehub (before the cassette goes on)?
I've an 11speed cassette, 11spd freewheel. Spacer not needed then?
Not needed
The spacer [b]is[/b] needed on a Pro4 with an 11 speed MTB cassette.
No spacer needed if running an 11 speed road cassette.
Pro4 runs an 11 speed road freehub which is wider than an 11 speed MTB freehub.
Fit the wheel without the cassette fitted, and keep turning the freehub by hand as you tighten the axle, you should then be able to tell what’s nipping up. I’d put 50p on it being the wrong end cap.
@jimmy748 - that's what I was thinking too, rule anything cassette / spacer out.
Can't see it being the wrong end cap, have tried different ones. But I'm at the stage of not disbelieving anything.
I'm away until the weekend though, so the suspense will hang over this thread til then.
Thanks for all input / suggestions.
@simian @bikerevivesheffield @singlespeedstu
It was the spacer. Not needed for 11spd cassette ;
Hope Cassette Spacer for 11 Speed (sjscycles.co.uk)
Spacer for when using 9/10 speed cassettes on an 11 speed hub
OR
11 Speed MTB cassettes on 11 speed ROAD freehubs.
Wish I'd seen that 2 weeks ago!
Thanks all.
@jimmy.
Good you've got it working but I've got two pro4 rear hubs that need the spacer to run an 11 speed cassette.
They won't fully tighten without it.
11 Speed MTB cassettes on 11 speed ROAD freehubs.
The Pro4 comes with a road compatible freehub.
Old thread about it here.
https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/why-is-my-xt-11speed-cassette-loose/
@Singlespeedstu - When I ordered the Pro4 I specified a steel freehub, maybe that's MTB-specific?
Cassette is tight without the spacer anyway.
Plus, I tried the suggestion as above and fitted the wheel with the cassette removed and there was no friction / resistance, therefore logically the cassette was the issue.
I specified a steel freehub, maybe that’s MTB-specific?
Could well be.
Cassette is tight without the spacer anyway.
Sorted then.👌
Was the cassette rubbing the frame/dropout then?
Not sure, didn't look to be and didn't feel / sound like that.