[Closed] hope freehub gouging, warranty

Why is this a problem? The only possible thing I can thing of is that it can be a bit of a fiddle to get the cassette off, but even then you'd have to be a bit special to not manage it.

Hope usually help out- even if its not warranty they will probably offer a discount.

the only problem is like you said it makes it harder to get the cassette off but working each one with a flat head screw driver and they will come of, they seem to get getting worse and thought it was abit premature with the amount of use the wheels have got for the hub body to get so cut up

I only take my cassette off when it's worn out and replace it with a new one.

Maybe it's the taking it on and off all the time that's the problem....

File off the burs now and then and the cassette will be a lot simpler to remove
Alloy hub bodies do suffer and not just hope either my Dt Swiss one is no better
Its the down side of keeping the weight down

If it is getting particularly bad I have read of people filing down a couple of the wider notches and epoxying in steel carpet staples.

You have to admit tho, every cassette on the market causes gouges on the Hope freehub, fit for purpose?

Depends on if you think it should be a service part that need replacing now and then

Every one I see is marked but never had to change one that's failed because of the marking

"upgrade" to the steel one.

Doesn't seem that fit for purpose but the alternatives will be heavier or more expensive.

OF the expensive light hubs don't the majority use aluminium?

every cassette on the market causes gouges on the Hope freehub, fit for purpose?

Every ally freehub on the market suffers from gouges, it's not the Hope'ness that's the problem, its the fact its an ally freehub, they offer steel ones for people that want more robustness (with more weight)

And as above, i've never found it to be much more than a cosmetic problem, they rarely dig in very far.just remove the cassette when its dead and file down the burs, had to do it to many hubs, CK, DT, Hope, etc... even had to do it on some steel and ti freehubs.

Averaged about 7 years on oldest. 2 file downs mostly using the right cassette fairly happy. I only remove the cassette when I need to.

I had a steel one and it was unmarked for years, no help for you but worth an upgrade. Can't understand why they don't fit this as standard tbh can't be that much heavier

there is a solution and i can't remember who does it, steel inserts. why its not more common i am not sure.

There is a second solution Campagnolo freehub bodies have deeper splines

From my experience, Hope's 'Send it back & we'll have a look at it' equals a new part F.O.C landing on your doormat a few days later.

That's gone and done it. I've got visions of people trying to fit the campy one to there mountain bikes.
Then again I'm off to look at the cog spacing

don't Ac hubs have little steel strips to stop the cassette digging in

If they still do the titanium one it's even better at resisting the gouging than the steel one, by the way.

Never mind - Hope will soon have that integrated hub/cassette available.

Oh yes - real, real soon.......

If it's a massive issue get a steel one as said above...all of my Alu ones have done this and I've just carefully filed down the burrs and re-fitted/ replaced the cassette... but on the plus side they are very light.

SRAM PG990 cassette on mine causes no damage whatsoever. The previous PG950 did dig in to the freehub but i just lightly filed it before the PG 990 went on.
Have not used Shimano alloy carrier cassettes so im a bit puzzled as to how it would cause damage when SRAM is fine ?

Sorry mine was the titanium one 😉

SRAM PG990 cassette on mine causes no damage whatsoever.

It will. It's not the carrier that does it, it's the smaller loose sprockets.

amedias - Member

Every ally freehub on the market suffers from gouges

My DT ones suffer much less than my Hope ones. Not that sure why tbh, they feel a little tighter when new so maybe they just have a little less fretting?

Hope are slightly odd about this, I got a wee note in the box with my last ones that said something along the lines of "You have to use an XT or up cassette, otherwise the freehub will wear. But don't worry if it does as it's cosmetic. But do the thing with the cassette, srsly.". If it's cosmetic, why the requirement?

I always thought that little steel insert in American Classic ally freehubs was a fantastic idea. I'm surprised its not copied more to stop this very problem. Adds no more than 2-3g

Cost is the reason the inserts are not used more I imagine, probably fidly to add.

>the only problem is like you said it makes it harder to get the cassette off but working each one with a flat head screw driver and they will come of, they seem to get getting worse and thought it was abit premature with the amount of use the wheels have got for the hub body to get so cut up<

Not this. Tap 4 times around the cassette with a rubber mallet - the sprockets will come off nae bother. Even if Hope send you a new one (likely) you'll just gouge that one too. Why worry about something that has no effect on anything?

Northwind - requirement is to protect the freehub from the higher torque generated by the larger sprockets. Small sprockets only leave cosmetic notches but loose large ones would do more damage.

I would check you are doing the lock nut up to the right torque too. Too much and you could strip it, too little and get too much play.

thanks for the reply guys. im do tend to strip the bike down a little to much prob. i like to clean everything up and change the grease in the freehub body every month or so, bike gets used everyday. it seems like this is kind of the normal thing to expect from an alloy hub with steel gears so will not both hope and file down the high spots

Northwind - requirement is to protect the freehub from the higher torque generated by the larger sprockets. Small sprockets only leave cosmetic notches but loose large ones would do more damage.

They're not loose though, they're riveted together in virtually all cassettes. I use a 'normal' cassette on the alu freehub on my Powertap, there's a sprocket somewhere in the middle that's dug in slightly more than the others weirdly, but not enough to worry about.

People want light hubs, this is the price you pay. Fitting a steel freehub puts Pro 2s on par with XT weight wise, but thrice the price.

They're not loose though, they're riveted together in virtually all cassettes.

They still move relative to each other though (Maybe due to the crappy plastic spacers often used on them). Have run several riveted cassettes on hub hubs and seen notching which show they must move.

But it's not like you get the 32t sprocket cutting right through the splines, it can't move that much.