I emailed Hope last week asking about swapping from a flat mount to post mount X2 caliper. Their reply was that the calipers are all the same so the Tech 4 levers should work ok with the X2 caliper.
is anyone running a wolf tooth dropper remote lever with the tech 4 levers yet,
if so, what mount option are you using,
i've got a drilled hope mount on my current tech3 (generation 2 levers)
does that fit the tech 4's, i've read shimano EV work, but my google skills dont seem to be hitting that comment today.
i messaged wolftooth, so will update if no one comments.
@crossed - ta! New brakes have been on the cards for a while as they're mismatched (one Tech which is older than my 12yo and one Tech Evo…)
@oscillatewildly
i have a quick one for anyone whose had them back from hope fixed with seals/pistons etc, do they come back already bled???
Yes, my set came back bled and ready to go. I reckon you’ll probably get new pads too.
appltn
Full Member
@oscillatewildlyi have a quick one for anyone whose had them back from hope fixed with seals/pistons etc, do they come back already bled???
Yes, my set came back bled and ready to go. I reckon you’ll probably get new pads too
ahh thank you mate, awesome stuff means can get straight out for a ride tomoz 🙌🏻 thank you be nice if I got some new pads too as they were pretty much bare 😬
Mines came back ready to fit, I didn't get new pads but they docs said it had a caliper service done.
whatyadoinsucka
Free Member
is anyone running a wolf tooth dropper remote lever with the tech 4 levers yet,
if so, what mount option are you using,
i’ve got a drilled hope mount on my current tech3 (generation 2 levers)does that fit the tech 4’s, i’ve read shimano EV work, but my google skills dont seem to be hitting that comment today.
i messaged wolftooth, so will update if no one comments
Doesn’t exist yet for hope tech4 e4/v4 with a direct mount to a WT remote, they are in her process of making one though, at moment I’m just running a stand-alone mount which in some ways offers better adjustment, but just doesn’t look as clean
ta11pau1
Full Member
Mines came back ready to fit, I didn’t get new pads but they docs said it had a caliper service done
ace thanks fingers crossed it will be bled then, also did you send your pads in with the brakes? I guess if you didn’t send them in they might not send new ones back out, mine were pretty worn and I just sent the whole thing in with pads/bolt etc
thanks @oscillatewildly, went for a coloured one so got the 22.2mm clamp as standard, had planned to sell the clamp and buy the part so will hold off till they launch. yet to buy the bike and it'll come with a basic dropper lever .
wonder if hope will ever (i) release a dropper lever, they'd clean up and (ii) release some new colours, i miss the gunsmoke.
be interesting to see how burgtec's Green anodisation works out,
ace thanks fingers crossed it will be bled then, also did you send your pads in with the brakes? I guess if you didn’t send them in they might not send new ones back out, mine were pretty worn and I just sent the whole thing in with pads/bolt etc
Yeah, same - I sent mine with pads etc in, tbh they're only a couple of hundred km old so no need to replace. The green pads are easy to sand down to get rid of any issues though.
whatyadoinsucka
Free Member
thanks @oscillatewildly, went for a coloured one so got the 22.2mm clamp as standard, had planned to sell the clamp and buy the part so will hold off till they launch. yet to buy the bike and it’ll come with a basic dropper lever .wonder if hope will ever (i) release a dropper lever, they’d clean up and (ii) release some new colours, i miss the gunsmoke.
be interesting to see how burgtec’s Green anodisation works out,
no worries i asked the same question about 5-6 pages back but its impossible find stuff on this forum lol - yeah defo in the works, they have a mount for the tech 3 e4, but not the new tech 4 e4 so its on its way, ill probably get it for aesthetics alone but im more than happy with the standalone position I've got it at now, like said in some ways it really doesnt limit you with adjustment like a matchmaker one does
i think hope did have one in the pipeline (unless ive just imagined that), but its never come to fruition, the WT is by far the best lever ive used though, its so so smooth on my fox transfer so dont think id ever both swapping this one out unless it just wasnt compatible with a new dropper post in the future
ta11pau1
Full Member
ace thanks fingers crossed it will be bled then, also did you send your pads in with the brakes? I guess if you didn’t send them in they might not send new ones back out, mine were pretty worn and I just sent the whole thing in with pads/bolt etcYeah, same – I sent mine with pads etc in, tbh they’re only a couple of hundred km old so no need to replace. The green pads are easy to sand down to get rid of any issues though.
ah right fair enough, i wasnt expecting any new ones, maybe theyll take pity and see they are almost worn and put some new ones in but wont hold my hopes up for it!
ps did you manage to get back out yet and test the noise level?!
Yeah mine are fine at the moment, only got out for an hour though. It'll take time for any issues to show up, it was only after a few rides I saw any noise.
I'll be trying to get out regularly over the next few weeks though, as I've got 2 weeks of fairly solid riding in Scotland in 4 weeks time, I'd rather not have to replace seals mid-trip!
Not sounding good all these issues, I hope they sort it out because its a lot of money to spend and brakes are the most important part of riding
I think I'm glad i just went for the levers alone to pair with the Tech 3 V4 calipers. Might not have the fancy pistons, but at least they work.
Bad form Hope. Never thought I'd hear myself saying that 😆
ta11pau1
Full Member
Yeah mine are fine at the moment, only got out for an hour though. It’ll take time for any issues to show up, it was only after a few rides I saw any noise.I’ll be trying to get out regularly over the next few weeks though, as I’ve got 2 weeks of fairly solid riding in Scotland in 4 weeks time, I’d rather not have to replace seals mid-trip!
fair point yes, i dont remember mine being noisy outback when i got them, although it was end of summer so not much water about i guess, time will tell hopefully as he's said mines wasnt showing any signs of leaking it was just weird coincidence (with the silicone lube i guess) and some other reason why it howls in the cold/wet but the front doesn't, shall see ive got some new rotors now too so hopefully that will clear it or ill only start riding in the dry lol
Looking back at my pictures of my rotor, you can clearly see the contamination but it looks like the whole disc has been covered in something grey and oily, but only one side - the side which is facing forwards when the car is mounted on my towbar rack. So, there's a possibility it wasn't the pistons at all, instead I drove through some oil dumped on the road by a car, but only on that side of the car (as the rear disc is fine). The noise did start at the start of one 1 night ride where I have to drive 45 mins to get to it, and got worse on the following weeks ride.
Affected side of the disc
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Other side of the disc
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52704072471_f9cc2d1cca_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52704072471_f9cc2d1cca_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
See the grey stuff on the silver part of the disc below where the pads contact but above the floating spider...
For what it's worth, we've got 3 sets of E4s between me and the good lady and, touch wood, haven't had any issues. The newest was fitted in October/November and ridden weekly since then.
Well I dont know how other folk brake, but I ,when wet pull slightly on the levers to bring the pads into the rotor so it scrubs off any moisture and gets a bit heat in them if I am intending to slow or stop.
If its wet and i just pull on thee brake, it lets out a scream, but bringing the pads in for a few seconds seems to prevent that for the most part.
@tallpaul - could well be coincidence - i'm unsure what i think tbh with mine, i dont get even if its just silicone why there would be bubbles escaping the piston? surely this means there IS a leak somewhere regardless of whether its lube or oil....i could be totally wrong as i dont know the ins and outs of how they work, but assumed its a closed circuit and no air bubbles should be leaving or entering a brake system....happy to be corrected though!
will report back when i get it, its out for delivery today, so literally got there yesterday and back to me today, incredible service i must say, and super helpful, so it hasnt put me off as they are the best feeling brakes ive had, hopefully it was some other reason why my rear brake howled, but ive got a new rotor now (2mm thick feels great on the front too, defo more bite/feel), and will just run them, guess if its still squealing in the wet/cold its just how it is and ill switch off from it as it wont be a issue through summer - other than this they have been spot on, id not hesitate to have another set
well ive got it back - again superb service! no new brake pads - boooooo :/ only messing wasnt expecting any in reality
worksheet states no problems found but seals/pistons replaced
ive just had a good go with them at work pushing and pressing pistons/levers, and theres absolutely zero lube/oil or bubbles coming out of any of the 4 piston areas now, so if theyve just been freshly lubed with silicone too kinda means that theorys out the window when i spotted it was lube....
theres zero anything coming out, and its much more easier to spot as i can get them right by my eye in the light not covered in mud, they just seem solid and nothing else to report, so something theyve done has stopped that bubbles/fluid.....who knows, still great service, im still not convinced it wasnt oil tbh but ill roll with it
I'm a few rides in now and very impressed. Went up and down Skiddaw on the main bridleway with testing the brakes being in mind. Both felt great, rear firmed very slightly but given how much it was dragged understandable. Noticeably less arm fatigue thanks to the lighter action needed. T4 V4 on 200mm HD rotors.
im still not convinced it wasnt oil tbh but ill roll with it
Could always have tasted it. Hydraulic fluid is harsh on the tongue*, a bit like aldi red wine, silicon doesn't really taste of anything.
* Obviously im not suggesting you suck it out the hose, just wipe the finger on the caliper and taste that.
dyna-ti
Full Member
im still not convinced it wasnt oil tbh but ill roll with itCould always have tasted it. Hydraulic fluid is harsh on the tongue*, a bit like aldi red wine, silicon doesn’t really taste of anything.
* Obviously im not suggesting you suck it out the hose, just wipe the finger on the caliper and taste that.
ha! if it happens again ill try it - fingers crossed i dont need to do the oil taste test!
is anyone running a wolf tooth dropper remote lever with the tech 4 levers yet,
if so, what mount option are you using, i’ve got a drilled hope mount on my current tech3 (generation 2 levers)
I have managed to get my Wolf Tooth lever attached directly to my Tech 4 lever. It's very close to the lever clamp and does away with one of the parts - basically bolt the dropper lever straight on to the brake clamp. As such it's 'shallow' against the bars but I'm used to it now. Not ideal but keeps the bars clean. Will try and get a picture.
well went out for a ride last night, in what can only be described as biblical conditions 🙁
great for testing the howling noise, as before one drop of rain/wet set it off, pleased to report (using same pads) that it was absolutely silent through the ride, in wet/mud/tonnes of rain and it didnt make a sound once
now this is with a new sram hs2 rotor so not exactly using my old disc that howled (but same pads at least), so can only assume it had leaked oil on it from the caliper, i checked the pistons after the ride, and theres no bubbling or anything anymore, so i do think regardless of what was stated by hope they were seeping oil out slowly
anyways, so far so good and a quiet rear brake!
however, it did come back a little bit squishier than im used to, is there a quick fix?? can i just top up the lever reservoir fluid and pump to see if any small air comes out? or do i need to do a full bleed?
Re: The wolf tooth remote, I'm doing the same as CalamityJames, using an ispec EV remote, just pop the little squarish/curved nut in the brake lever clamp and attach the remote with the bolt. Not really any adjustability, but it works and my thumb can/will get used to it.
I did even try using the hope LH adapter for Shimano, but the remote doesn't want to fit work with that.
however, it did come back a little bit squishier than im used to, is there a quick fix?? can i just top up the lever reservoir fluid and pump to see if any small air comes out? or do i need to do a full bleed?
Probably just needs the pistons aligning correctly, it should have been perfectly bled. Although might be worth doing a quick bleed too, with the hope bleed pot it's dead easy.
Remote wise I'm using the OneUp V3 lever on the matchmaker adapter and it's awesome. Very short and light lever action.
Mine came back supposedly bled but had lots of air in them so I'd recommend a bleed .
thanks @CalamityJames @drdexx @oscillatewildly
got a reply back from WT,
"We do not have plans to introduce a Hope Tech 4 conversion kit for the current ReMote" but .....
the marketing team are launching something in 4 weeks time.. cant say more than that.
better not be a new bloody remote. :0)
Hope remote imminent just check the handlebars of the sponsored riders ...Joe Barnes fergie etc even Brayton had one
Dropper lever was shown on the hb130 when it was released. Imminent is a bit eternity.
Just bled the back brake using the easy bleed kit, jeeeez probably the easiest brake bleed I’ve ever done! I kept thinking there’s got to be more to it than this….the srams have always been fairly easy once you get used to the process, but literally nothing to it at all other than open bleed port pump and close bleed port a few times, used a bleed block so no air bubbles trapped behind the pistons this way, not sure why they don’t do it with a bleed block in the videos unless I’m missing something? I must have done it right as a fair few bubbles came out, and it’s now much much firmer than last night, feels identical to my front at least now!
Bugger I hope WT aren’t dropping a new lever, I’ve only just bought one thinking they’d do a matchmaker for the tech 4… seems it will just be completely replaced, I’m not too sure how the hell they could improve the WG LA remote tbh?!
Yeah the hope one has been on the radar for a long time, maybe it will come out later this year
ta11pau1
Full Member
however, it did come back a little bit squishier than im used to, is there a quick fix?? can i just top up the lever reservoir fluid and pump to see if any small air comes out? or do i need to do a full bleed?Probably just needs the pistons aligning correctly, it should have been perfectly bled. Although might be worth doing a quick bleed too, with the hope bleed pot it’s dead easy.
Remote wise I’m using the OneUp V3 lever on the matchmaker adapter and it’s awesome. Very short and light lever action
Are you using this lever on a one up post? Is it a big improvement over the old lever? I hated the old lever it felt really stiff and hard to depress, must say I’m tempted swap to a 240mm one up and get the new lever if it’s much improved
The OneUp v3 lever is lovely
Are you using this lever on a one up post? Is it a big improvement over the old lever? I hated the old lever it felt really stiff and hard to depress, must say I’m tempted swap to a 240mm one up and get the new lever if it’s much improved
Never had the old OneUp lever, I went from the bontrager line elite to the OneUp V3. Really nice short throw and it's got a nice light action. That's on a 240mm one up.
The bontrager lever and brand X post on my hardtail feel like they need about 3 inches of movement compare to the OneUp lever!
And it lines up well with the tech 4 levers for tidy looking cables.
Thanks @ta11pau1 interesting getting more and more tempted try the one up again especially if the new levers good with a short throw, that’s what I love about the WT it’s just got a smooth short throw on it, would like to try a one up again at some point in 240mm anyways wrong thread for this but thanks 👍
As for the bleeding process with hope does everyone else use a bleed block with the pistons pushed fully back then start? Always the way I’ve done other brakes, but weirdly the hope videos they leave the pads in, I guess it doesn’t matter as it feels good just more interested as it was so damn easy
I’ve bled my T4s with the pads in, carefully obvs but with the Hope kit it’s easy not to spill fluid at the calliper end.
As for the bleeding process with hope does everyone else use a bleed block with the pistons pushed fully back then start? Always the way I’ve done other brakes, but weirdly the hope videos they leave the pads in, I guess it doesn’t matter as it feels good just more interested as it was so damn easy
I bleed with a block in but only because I like to keep pressure on the lever when opening and closing the bleed nipple, to stop any air being sucked back, but if you don't put pressure on the lever you can just push the pistons back in afterwards.
I'm 99% likely to be buying myself these soon. Where's best to get them from as a full package?
Are they normally suited to 200mm rotors?
Currently running guide RE's on the rocketmax and a surprise bonus from work means I can finally get some hopes.
I got mine from Start Fitness. They were the cheapest I could find and I signed up for a discount code.
Paid £156 for E4's in Jan. See same seller is now £215. Yikes.
Biketart were the cheapest I’ve seen recently. £175/ea for V4s
£171/£184 for E4/V4 if you've got the Wiggle 12% discount.
Biketart are £192 for V4's currently.
Are they normally suited to 200mm rotors?
If its the V4 you're getting,they'll work with any diameter rotor. But due to spacing its either the Heavy Duty rotor you want or the hideously expensive vented one.
The HD rotor comes in 180/200/220mm sizes.
I'm pairing mine(V4) with 200mm HD rotors, mainly because its for an Ebike, and the rotors have little lightening bolts on them 😀
You don't need the heavy duty rotor, mine work fine with Avid Clean Sweeps.
Ordered from merlin cycles in the end, 10% cashback using top cashback plus they are fairly close so should be able to collect this week.
Also ordered galfer discs, hope bleed kit and spare pads from rush cycles.
Hopefully get to try them next weekend 😁
So, my front brake isn't sorted.
Went out for an hour tonight, started hearing the tell tale 'turkey gobble' of the beginnings of disc contamination, and riding along on the flat, with a slight bit of pressure on the front brake (enough to only need a bit more pressure on the pedals to move at the same speed), the front brake lever is going literally to the bar, from it's initial bite point of about 2-3inches from the bar, in less than 20 seconds.
That's barely any brake pressure at all, for 20 seconds, and the lever is at the bar.
I probably don't need to tell you that that's not great when I've got 2 weeks riding in Scotland coming up in 6 days... 😫
I can also see the disc has the same contamination that it had before, I gave the bike a wash at the weekend and it was perfectly clean so I know it wasn't contaminated from anywhere else. There's no leakage from the lever and with the disc contamination it can only be coming from the caliper. Only one side, too. Same side as before.
I'm going to order a brand new front brake off Wiggle, and a bore cap tool from somewhere else - the new brake will be here Wednesday - I'll get that fitted as it is to start, go for a ride that evening and then shorten th hose later if all good. I'll then rebuild the faulty one with the seal kit I already bought!
I'd be giving up on them after another failure. Buy something more reliable for your holiday!
I’d be giving up on them after another failure. Buy something more reliable for your holiday!
Nah, it's (probably) one piston out of many, and I've had about 4 years combined flawless reliability from 2x sets of tech 3's - I'd rather not have to get used to a new brake feel when I really just want to know what the brakes will do when I use them.
Tbh I sort of need to switch my tech 3's on my hardtail to tech 4's anyway, fingers crossed a combination of a new brake and/or replacing the seals in the current one (I think it's only 1 or 2 pistons leaking, on the outside pistons too so I won't need to remove them all) will get it sorted.
Fair enough, it sounds like you're fully invested in them. I like mine but leaky calipers would definitely put me off. Hopefully mine stay trouble free.
Plus there's the matchmaker clamps and everything, it's simpler to just get them sorted.
They're phenomenal brakes when they're working!! 😬🤣
So, I think the master cylinder seals are shot on my front brake, as well as it leaking enough fluid to contaminate the disc. I can't see any fluid coming out from the pistons, but the disc is definitely getting contaminated. And my lever is doing this:
If lever doing that was down to fluid escaping I'd have no brake fluid left!! I'm going to open up the master cylinder to see how much I have in there, it might even be the level is low enough that it's trying to push air down the brake line?
Edit: fluid level is pretty damn low! But not low enough that it's pushing air. That fluid has gone somewhere... And that somewhere is straight onto my brake disc!
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Fingers crossed the new one is free from issues!
That's a bummer for folks having issues, I was out on Saturday making use of my second set of Pro 4 on some new steep stuff, and they really are fantastic.
My front does the turkey gobble a bit under really heavy braking, but no loss of power.
I've had it with othe brakes in the past and always associated it with holey discs.
What are people using as a Pro 4 bleed kit? Anything posh? I know I can do it with my selection of cheap pipes and syringes but am I missing a trick?
Total bleed solutions? on eBay do reasonably priced kits for hope. That's what I'm using for tech 3 and tech 4.
Get the proper hope bleed kit with the funnel that screws on, it's the easiest way to do it.
And yeah the noise (hard to describe, more of a warble than a gobble) for me is the first sign of the start of contamination, before they get to the full on honking noise level.
My rear has been rock solid, just the front with the issues!
Edit: fluid level is pretty damn low! But not low enough that it’s pushing air. That fluid has gone somewhere… And that somewhere is straight onto my brake disc!
Possibly swopping the 2023 V4 calipers for the earlier Tech 3 version might do the job, if indeed all the power of the new brake is in the new lever.
But I wonder if its actually the lever is strong enough to force the fluid out the caliper if you know what I mean. And no matter what you fit its always going to force the fluid out past the seals.
Nah, like I say my rear has been completely fine over the 200km I've done. Maybe it's a cracked piston or something, I'll check once I get the new brake and strip down the old one.
thats a bummer @ta11pau1
hmmmm interesting - put different pads in my newly repaired one last week (Green ones) then realised i didnt like them, so put some red ones back in and ive got a weird horrid warble but only light braking (like corners etc), it doesnt do it at all when im going down something steep/gets them warmed up....really odd as its not a squeal at all like before....
im testing out again tonight, hoping it was just a case of because i ran the green pads, didnt clean anything and put the red pads straight back on without cleaning a thing....will report back
but i can see no bubbling as it was the first thing i checked, and the lever feels good
Ignore the fluid level above btw, I'd forgotten I had the wheel out and had pumped out the pistons with the pads still in, with them fully pushed back in the level is fine.
I've taken them off to have a proper look and I can't see any fluid but I'll put some paper between the bleed block and pistons to see if there's anything on it.
Right, new front brake received, fitted, set up and bedded in within an hour.
It would have been earlier if the Evri driver had delivered to the right house! To be fair, the address on the label looks like 18 not 16 which is where I live, Wiggle need to improve their printer DPI! It's the second time it's happened - and I don't get the delivery photo until the driver has finished his rounds... 😡
Anyhoo... The new lever is holding pressure. Thank god. And after bedding in and a few hard stops I can see not a drop nor bubble on any of the pistons. So, fingers crossed this brake is a good'un. I think my old brake is going to need a master cylinder rebuild too as it's clearly not sealing in there, and that's beyond my knowhow.
Currently rocking the 'not quite finished' look, if I can get out over the next 2 evenings and all is good I'll cut the hose down and give it a bleed.
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Hmmmmm, new bike is coming with Tech 4 V4's. I currently use Tech 4 E4 and they have been faultless. Wondering just how common these issues are and would I be better speccing the new bike with E4's. Just how prevalent are the V4 issues do we think ?
Just for comparrison ive been running Tech4 V4's since before Xmas and no issues so far
Also have Tech3 V4's & Tech3 E4's & a set of RX4+ calipers, again they have been pretty much faultless over the years, just need to clean the pistons now and again which is a 5 min job
Just how prevalent are the V4 issues do we think ?
My mate that works in one of the many local to me LBS's told me they've had a fair few back with leaky callipers.
I've not had a problem with mine so far but probably only got a dozen rides on them so can't judge yet.
Not sure if there's more issues with early batches of brakes, my original pair were ordered early September.
Honestly though, it wouldn't put me off.
Yeah I've had my tech 4 v4's for a few months now and not had any issues other than the green pads wearing extremely fast!
Bore cap tool delivered, and caliper stripped down.
None of the seals were flipped over, but there was some debris in one of the bore cap threads, and possibly on one of the seals.
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I got this out the thread. Not sure what it is, doesn't look like aluminium.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52832419758_3be9134298_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52832419758_3be9134298_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Now, the threads are the opposite side of the o-ring to where the fluid is, so it shouldn't have affected it. But, a couple of the pistons do have some light scoring, right in the area that would have never been exposed to anything but the seal. So I think there's been a tiny bit of debris stick in the seal which has caused the leaking.
This would explain why I had about 150km trouble free km with the brake before they started having issues, either the debris found it's way there after a while, or it was there to start and eventually scored the piston enough to start leaking. The scoring is visible but I can't feel it all with my finger/fingernail, I'm not sure how much it would need to be scored to allow a leak. More likely the debris stuck in the seal allowed the leak.
entirely new wolf tooth lever called the pro
The New ReMote Pro
ReMote Pro is cycling’s most adjustable and refined dropper lever. It features more adjustment than any other dropper lever so you can configure your cockpit based on your riding style. It also features a full metal assembly for durability and ergonomics – all components are CNC machined here at Wolf Tooth in Minnesota.
The new ReMote Pro is compatible with all cable-actuated dropper posts. Eight clamp options are available that are compatible with all standard MTB handlebars and can integrate with several brake clamps for a clean and tidy cockpit. It's available now at the button below and with all bike shops that stock Wolf Tooth.
SHOP REMOTE PRO
Added Adjustment
ReMote Pro is the only dropper lever that allows for adjustment of the lever starting position independent of cable tension. With ReMote Pro, you have 48º of rotational freedom to select your lever starting point – no need to adjust clamp positioning or cable tension (or anything else) to get the lever to your ideal spot.
ReMote Pro can be moved along and rotated around the handlebar as can be done with ReMote and ReMote Light Action, while also having additional adjustment of lateral movement once the clamp is in its final place with three lateral mount positions.
SHOP REMOTE PRO
Increased Leverage
The cable pulley of ReMote Pro is designed with a variable leverage cam (oval) shape around the axle. This provides more leverage at the beginning of the lever throw, when dropper posts need more force to open the fluid reservoir valve that allows the post to move. Think of it as starting to pedal a bike from a dead stop while in a low, easy gear compared to starting in a high, difficult gear. Actuation of ReMote Pro starts easy and ends easy.
SHOP REMOTE PRO
The Most Refined Dropper Lever
ReMote Pro is years in the making. The result is a thoughtful, versatile, refined dropper lever that will meet the demands of the trail ahead.
Compatible with all cable-actuated dropper posts
Various clamp options to integrate with brakes from Shimano, SRAM, Hope, Magura, and Hayes
Machined surface of paddle provides extra grip
Large sealed cartridge bearing is shielded from the elements
Stainless steel lateral mounting bolts extra adjustability
Cable clamp won’t pinch or bend cable
Easy installation with video guides available
Individual components available as replacement parts via Wolf Tooth Right To Repair
ReMote Pro is available now at the button below and with any bike shop that stocks Wolf Tooth.
will the new pro 4 mount work on our 'old' levers or do we need to buy the whole new remote?!
Finally got mine fitted and a trial mooch around to get them bedded in and setup. Gonna take some getting used to, coming from guide RE which need a strong grab, much better control and way more power. Lovely. Hopefully don't get the issues seen here, galfer 200mm rotors seem to work well.
Gonna take some getting used to, coming from guide RE which need a strong grab, much better control and way more power
interesting to see how you get on. Keep looking at hope but have Guide RE’s as they are cheap reliable and powerful. I don’t feel they need a grab but all relative I guess.
Mine were several years old and definitely in need of a rebuild. They were powerful but seemed to need a lot of force to keep doing so, and no matter what I did I couldn't stop some of the pistons from sticking.
I've also been after hopes forever so once I got my bonus I didn't need much convincing. Quite fortunate.
Bit of an interesting update. My brakes have been warrantied for the third time with hope because they were leaking (Details are in some of my previous replies). I phoned in advance to try and see if there was something else they could do given this, and they said they'd measure the tolerances on the calipers.
I've received them back today with replacement calipers as the seal grooves were undersized by 0.01mm. Seems like there are some lemons floating around!!
My brakes started howling yesterday. It was the maiden voyage of the Shotgun saddle so I was too occupied with a hyperactive 2 year old to do a proper check of the bike. It was dry and sunny and the bike's been sitting in the garage for a couple of weeks.
Anyone want to place any bets on me finding a leaky caliper?
My lever reservoirs seem to be leaking. I had the bike in the car with the levers face down on some foam in the back of the car and the reservoir caps end up coated in a layer of oil. This happened on 3 separate journeys, so id be surprised if it was just residuals on top of the diaphragm.
Anyone else had similar?
I wonder if these caliper leaking issues are a new thing with the tech 4 lever or new pistons. Is there any record of these issues with previous generation calipers?
Hoping mine done exhibit said issues but keeping hold of my guide RE's just in case.
Having just rebuilt a 3 year old hope e4 caliper using new hybrid pistons the tolerances seemed to be a lot tighter than my new tech 4 e4 which I've had warrantied which contradicts what I originally thought was undersized pistons on the new models so it could be its the calipers .
This has all been very disappointing to read, I hope Hope are taking this seriously, as it is a big blow to their reputation.
As ever you only hear about faults. However I don't want to jinx my brakes 🤐
For comparrison my Tech 4 V4's have been faultless, so have my Tech 3 V4's and Tech 3 E4's along with my RX4+ calipers
My mates Magura MT7's on the other hand kept leaking at the rear caliper, we finally we worked out the bleed nipple was leaking even though it was tightend to the correct torque, this was after we found both the small plastic Bat plugs on both levers had worked loose and were nearly lost on the trail
