So I have just won a set of V4's in a raffle! Are the new Tech 4's a lot nicer feel than the Tech 3's?. Any longer term reviews?
Lucky sod!
@RickDraper - Depends what you mean by feel.
I’ve had a set of Tech 4 levers for a few months now, and still have tech 3’s on the trail bike. I don’t really notice the change in lever shape I just mounted them a fraction further in-board on the bar.
To me they feel like they’ve traded a little modulation for a bit more bite early in the stroke. Whether that’s a good thing or not is subjective. Personally I like them a lot, but then I always liked the Tech 3’s too.
When I mentioned feel I should have said I didn't mean the feel on the finger of the lever, I meant the feel of the braking power. I always found the Tech 3's (Only tried the E4's) to feel a bit underpowered and I had to really pull on the lever to get the power I wanted.
For reference I will either be moving some Trickstuff Maxima or some Direttissima to try the V4's.
For reference I will either be moving some Trickstuff Maxima or some Direttissima to try the V4’s.
Stealth ad?
When I mentioned feel I should have said I didn’t mean the feel on the finger of the lever, I meant the feel of the braking power. I always found the Tech 3’s (Only tried the E4’s) to feel a bit underpowered and I had to really pull on the lever to get the power I wanted.
That's what they've meant to have "fixed" - haven't fitted mine yet so can't say. But I'd agree that the tech 3 v4, although they have bags of power, you have to give them a decently firm squeeze to access it. The tech 3 V4's most definitely aren't underpowered, but they hid it deep in the lever stroke.
Stealth ad?
Nope wont sell either of them, no matter how good the new Hopes are.
The new Tech4 levers feel really good, I just wish Hope would stop dimpling the lever where you put your finger.
Haven't used them in anger yet and remembering I've gone up a disc size front and rear (180-203 & 203-220) but on first impressions I'm very much liking the tech 4 V4. They do have a significant amount of bite now, but it's not ala Shimano where the bite is right there at the very beginning of the travel - here you just need a bit of a squeeze and BOOM... POWERRRRR!!
The new pistons are nice and slippery too, makes setting up easy, and can be set up with minimal lever deadzone, even with a little bit of rubbing (which goes away I find once you start riding).
Looks like it's going to be 20 degrees here Saturday (wtf!) so I'll get out for a proper ride.
As Ta11pau1 says the new caliper's have pistons that move very freely and easily. The only other brake's I have with piston's that move as easily are my Trickstuff.
I also have the Hope 2.3mm rotors and the V4's don't rub at all.
First ride on a Tech4 E4 today and it’s significant upgrade from the 18yr old Mono4 that it’s replaced. Initially felt like way too much power, but I’ve quickly adjusted to the feel of it. Lovely bit of kit
I tried a set of Hope brakes today for the first time ever, by Eck they were nice!!!!
Looking at pictures they were the new Tech4 type but no idea what combo. Very very nice though
Having just bought some tech4 E4 I concur.
I recently went to 220mm upfront, I needn't have bothered.
I only changed to the Tech4 due to a new frame, deciding to stick with 180mm. Feels like 160mm would have been fine.
220mm up front will be eye popping!
220mm up front will be eye popping!
A theme of my bike is complete overkill, aka over-compensating for... Something 🤣
I was on the fence about going to 220mm but just thought sod it. The great thing about hope brakes is despite the power they now have easily available, they still have the same modulation. I'm a serial brake dragger down steep stuff so bigger is better!
I really like my tech 4 e4 on the flaremax. Nice feel and power with 180mm both ends. Although I managed to blitz a pair of green pads in a day at the ard moors practice when the conditions were grim. So I'd go with the other pads for winter use. Save the greens for summer.
Ok, so first proper ride/descent on the tech 4 V4 with 220 front and 203 rotors. They are really, really good. Oodles of power with the lightest of squeezes but still with the Hope modulation we love.
Ok, so first proper ride/descent on the tech 4 V4 with 220 front and 203 rotors. They are really, really good. Oodles of power with the lightest of squeezes but still with the Hope modulation we love.
Could you compare them to other brakes you have used?
Too many hope brake fanboys about ,so I need to hear how they compare to other brakes before I give them the benefit of the doubt.......
Could you compare them to other brakes you have used?
Tbh I've been on Hope V4's for the past 3 years so I'm probably not the best to give an opinion!
I have memories of a set of previous generation 4 pot Shimano brakes on a demo bike that were so grabby that I was scared to pull the front brake on the wet trails I was riding for fear of locking up. The same for a set of code RSC brakes, very immediate and instant power.
Generally if you're coming from Shimano XT or SRAM Code even these aren't going to feel as grabby on the initial pull - some people think that means that don't have power, which they do, you just have to squeeze a bit more. The tech 4's have improved this but they're still not at the Shimano levels of bite. Hopes also have more power the more you squeeze, whereas others have loads of power up front but nothing more when you pull harder.
It's all down to preference though, some like the instant power whereas some prefer more modulation. Nothing wrong with either preference.
If you give your location maybe there's someone local who can give you a demo of them.
I won’t be able to offer any comparisons to other brakes unfortunately. I’ve only ever had hope 4 pots on my mtbs. XC4, Mono4, original techs and now these E4
Im waiting for mine. Just ordered a pair of levers from Bike tart yesterday, they should be with me by the end of next week.
Will be fitted to tech3 V4's and using 200mm 2.3mm HD rotors 😀
Had mine for a while. Previous user of last gen E4’s, XT’s, Code’s and the other sram brake the name of which I can’t remember. They’re so good. In every respect. Running 180’s on my hightower, that’s plenty.
This is quite a useful review of them:
https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/disc-brakes-products/hope-tech-4-e4-brakes-review
“Set up right though, stopping power with the new lever and pads is leagues ahead of the old Tech 3s. I always felt under-gunned with the old brakes, and sore hands are etched in my memory from pulling so hard on massive Alpine descents – the clamping force just wasn’t there. Now, with many endless foreign downhill tracks in the bank, I can happily say this is no longer the case, either in terms of modulation or pure top-end power.”
Decent review, sounds like hope have a competitive brake now.
I've just ordered a set of magura mt7 for my new bike.
The bleed cap for the tech 4 seems to come in 2 forms. HT0018 and HT0019.
The HT0018 appears have a wide central hole, and the HT0019 has what looks like the size of hole the easy bleed pot thing screws into. The HT0018 I dont think will fit the pot, or at least it looks too wide a diameter thread.
Cant seem to find anything on the Hope website about there being two types, but I'll keep looking unless anyone here knows.(The info in the general brake section hasn't been updated yet, so Tech 4 part number for the bleed cap isn't listed)
I'm guessing just by visually looking at them, but the fact there are 2 parts with different numbers must mean theres a difference.
Anyone know the script here ? 🙂
The HT0018 -
https://slam69.co.uk/products/hope-workshop-bleed-kit-cap-tech-4-silver
The HT0019 -
Hope do a silver and a black bleed pot. The black bleed pot uses a larger OD thread. Quite why they needed to do 2 different bleed post I'm not sure... I ordered HTT0019 and it works with my silver bleed pot.
@dyna-ti interested to see how the new lever works out. I’m toying with swapping out my tech 3 levers for the 4 with my tech 3 e4.
@dyna-ti interested to see how the new lever works out. I’m toying with swapping out my tech 3 levers for the 4 with my tech 3 e4
The only thing you'll be missing with that is the stainless hybrid postons - otherwise the E4 and V4 calipers are identical (cosmetics aside).
I'm thinking I may have to swap the tech 3 levers on my hardtail at some point, now I've experienced the tech 4's 🤣
Hope do a silver and a black bleed pot. The black bleed pot uses a larger OD thread. Quite why they needed to do 2 different bleed post I’m not sure… I ordered HTT0019 and it works with my silver bleed pot.
Might have something to do with having a greater flow, as I cant see them doing it just to make money. Might find int he future the wider system becomes the only one available.
But thanks for the info. Denotes which one i should buy.
@dyna-ti interested to see how the new lever works out. I’m toying with swapping out my tech 3 levers for the 4 with my tech 3 e4.
I've got to get past a serious level of laziness first. I got new pro 4 wheels, a new 10spd XO mech et al, new rotors and at the time tech3 levers and V4's and the entire lot just sat unfitted behind the sofa for 7 or 8 months.
There once was a time I've have fitted new parts to the bike 5 minutes after they arrived, but i just keep putting it off and putting it off so i need to bite the bullet so to speak and rebuild the bike with all the new parts.
When the new levers arrive I'll get it sorted for sure.
Loving my new tech 4 E4 .had to warranty the rear lever as it was creaking upon every pull which is then developed into a audible click .
Had to send the whole brake back which was a pain but was sorted within a week
I'm keen on a set. But have a simple question (for now).
Does the new brakes work with the I-Spec II adapter that I've seen listed for the Tech 3 brakes?
Same with dropper side, does the Hope adapter for the Woolftooth work with the new Tech 4s?
Cheers
I don't see the point in lever swaps. Can't see how that works out better than just buying a whole set and selling the older set. Any tiny savings is surely outweighed by hassle factor.
Does the new brakes work with the I-Spec II adapter that I’ve seen listed for the Tech 3 brakes?
You'll need tech 4 adapters, they're different to the tech 3 versions. On the plus side there's now some adjustability on the angle you can set the dropper lever/shifter to.
I don’t see the point in lever swaps. Can’t see how that works out better than just buying a whole set and selling the older set. Any tiny savings is surely outweighed by hassle factor.
I've just sold am old set of tech 3 v4's for £210 Inc the MMX adapters so let's say £190 without without adapters allowing for postage costs. My tech 4 V4's cost me £370 so that's a a cost of £180. Tech 4 levers are £95 from singletrack bikes so £190, so yeah you're right - tbh the stainless pistons are worth the upgrade too.
“I’m thinking I may have to swap the tech 3 levers on my hardtail at some point, now I’ve experienced the tech 4’s 🤣”
If that 30% increase in power is accurate that’s equivalent to going from an E4 to a V4 and also going up a disc size - which makes a big difference! I’ve got E4 and 203/183 on my hardtail and V4 with 220/200 on my eMTB and even with the extra weight and grip the latter requires a lighter touch!
Yeah I've got v4's on both my bikes as a) I like power and b) I can share pads between them, but I'm running 180mm discs on my hardtail (versus 203/220mm on the FS) so they heat up faster in grimy/wet winter conditions and also because the bike doesn't get used on the same big, long technical descents as the FS does. I'll see what the hardtail brakes feel like, I need to give them a clean and set the pads up again as the bite point is a bit too far out at the moment.
I'll most likely be getting a new set of levers, mostly because mine are the old Tech flip flop ones that I just can't get a good feel out of on the back.
As far as power goes the only time I had concern was at MacAvalanche when I cooked them up in the snow traffic jam, they were absolutely fine but the Sram CS rotors were definitely suffering, pinging and ticking like nothing else!
I don’t see the point in lever swaps. Can’t see how that works out better than just buying a whole set and selling the older set. Any tiny savings is surely outweighed by hassle factor.
What hassle factor? I assume you don't just whang brakes on without trimming hose lengths? Internal routing?
I’ve just sold am old set of tech 3 v4’s for £210 Inc the MMX adapters so let’s say £190 without without adapters allowing for postage costs. My tech 4 V4’s cost me £370 so that’s a a cost of £180. Tech 4 levers are £95 from singletrack bikes so £190, so yeah you’re right – tbh the stainless pistons are worth the upgrade too.
Bear in mind you can sell the Tech 3 levers for about £70 each so that's you down to a £50 cost. Pistons are probably going to be in the region of 50 quid again so £100 total. And that's just a nice to have, wait until everyone starts remembering how shite the stainless pistons were for seizing before they went to phenolic. I'm not in a huge rush to replace mine.
Has anyone direct mounted a wolftooth remote yet. Just ordered na set of tech 4s but forgot my dropper remote is mounted on the tech 3s currently on the bike.
You’ll need tech 4 adapters, they’re different to the tech 3 versions. On the plus side there’s now some adjustability on the angle you can set the dropper lever/shifter to.
@ta11pau1 I've not seen Tech 4 Adapters for I-Spec II shifters anywhere? If they do exist can you link me to them please. Cheers
I think the tech4 ev adapter will work with I spec 2 shifter as well, it's Ispec b that's not compatible for tech4's, it seems like Hope's tech4 connection is the same as new shimano m8100 etc levers, I'm wondering if you could direct mount a dropper lever for example if you're running tech4 levers inboard quite a lot.
Finally managed to do a bit of riding on the Tech4 V4 brakes. I am pretty confident I wont bother refitting the Trickstuff Maximas.
Had to send my first tech 4 e4 back as the lever was clicking and got worse . straight fwd return via wiggle ordered another.
Couldn't get the rear to hold a bleed kept pulling to the bar after a few miles even after rebleed.
Took caliper off and there's brake fluid coming from the outside one of the pistons it's only weeping but a ball ache as there outstanding when they work .
I did read something that there was a seepage problem with some of an early batch of calipers. Drop Hope a line about it, they'll probably replace it.
Finally managed to do a bit of riding on the Tech4 V4 brakes. I am pretty confident I wont bother refitting the Trickstuff Maximas.
Can you tell us more about how they compare?
Can you tell us more about how they compare?
The lever feel is a lot more to my liking on the Tech4's, the maximal although they has loads of power always felt a bit mushy. Almost like they had too much power and that made them squishy. Also they don't have enough adjustment to get both of them both engaging at the exact same point with the same throw, something that I don't struggle with with the Tech4's bite and reach adjustment. Oh one other thing, 6mm shielded braided hose or 5mm bare braided hose is a terrible idea.
can anyone tell me what the green pad backed compound is that comes with the brakes? and also what the red backed spares are???
with it being so wet, the greens have become really really loud on the rear of my bike, wondering if a change to a different compound will be quieter?!
annoying as hell as they've been silent - and as far as i know ive not contaminated them as they feel good still
Greens are race compounds with extra bite, but wear quickly and yes noisey in the wet
Reds are normal organic compound and great for all round use
Green are a very soft organic.
Red are std organic.
ah great thanks folks - the greens are really bad in the wet, for noise - ill stick the red ones back on i think i thought they were organic hence why they are so quiet
has anyone found a cheap place to find genuine replacements of the reds? mine have lasted 6 months so far, but are coming to the end (incredilbe really given how much abuse theyve had!) so only want genuine red ones
Red are Galfer's Advanced compound. Their black pads are the standard organic pads and are nowhere near as good as the red ones.
does any one else suffer from the noise (squeal) on these brakes? is it just a wet thing? my code RSC with sintered pads in winter never made a beep no matter what was on them
No noise coming from mine so far using the purple pads
Have you checked the caliper is centrerd correctly over the disc and all four pistons are moving an equal amount when the brake is used?
Have you checked the condition of the pads to make sure they havent glazed or become slightly contaminated? also has the disc become contaminated?
Finally have you checked all the rotor bolts are tight, if they are floating rotors are the rivets all ok? nothing else in that area that could resonate the noise?
Normally i find a noisy brake is down to one of the above things or a combination of them
thank you @escrs
going to have a look into it this weekend, ive got some spare rotors i can try to rule them out, and ill swap the pads over front to back as the front is totally silent, guess i can process of elimination scenario it
weird as i dont remember it doing it at all even when it rained in summer, now as soon as it goes through a puddle or drizzle or anything it honks, until its used alot, then comes back after its cooled down....and yet the front (identical setup) doesnt make a single sound no matter what
No noise coming from mine so far using the purple pads
Have you checked the caliper is centrerd correctly over the disc and all four pistons are moving an equal amount when the brake is used?
Have you checked the condition of the pads to make sure they havent glazed or become slightly contaminated? also has the disc become contaminated?
Finally have you checked all the rotor bolts are tight, if they are floating rotors are the rivets all ok? nothing else in that area that could resonate the noise?
Normally i find a noisy brake is down to one of the above things or a combination of them
Good advice, I'm one ride in with my E4's and they didn't honk but had an annoying squeak (like a mouse LOL).
Following the Hope Youtube video to equalize the pistons, easy to do but the pistons just went back to where they started (one pushing out more than the other) regardless how much I let the 'weaker' piston push out.
I went back to the old school method of loosening the bolts and tightening them again with the brakes on.....see how that goes.
I may change to the Red pads and use the Greens in the summer.
I went through the green pads in five rides on the rear! Have put the ebike pads in for the rest of winter, may get some replacement greens for the summer, but the peaks and the wet killed em quick. Not sure how many runs of the mega they would last...
Admittedly these are on my new bike which is delivering me into corners on the downs way quicker than the old bike.
Following the Hope Youtube video to equalize the pistons, easy to do but the pistons just went back to where they started (one pushing out more than the other) regardless how much I let the ‘weaker’ piston push out.
If one piston isnt pumping out compared to the others then i would pump out all the pistons enough to clean around them with a cotton bud dipped in isopro alcohol (careful not to pump them out the caliper) once clean and dry lube each piston with some dot brake fluid or some Hunter's silicone lube
Next work each piston in turn back and forth into the caliper, they should now move freely and pump out the same distance when the brake is applied
I've now had 4 sets of E4s and all have had a high pitched squeal/chrip. The wife now has a set and they're the same. I just thought it was a Hope thing, fortunately it doesn't both either of us and the new T4s are brilliant!
Added these V4s to the Big Daft Deviate, was supposed to be riding tomorrow but foot is knackered again 😩.
Look good though!
https://flic.kr/p/2ocHQXr
https://flic.kr/p/2ocGVcQ
Added these V4s to the Big Daft Deviate
Bit of a back brake dragger? 🤣😮
Never tried the vented discs.
Me neither, thought I’d give them a try. Hoping they’ll be powerful enough to not feel the need to drag!
quick question folks
i need some replacement RED standard pads (the ones that come with the new tech 4 e4), finding them online is proving tricky? are they the same as the old tech 3 e4 fitment wise and pad compound wise?
https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-tech-3-e4-pads-77134.html
so would these fit?
Yep the red organic and gold sintered pads are identical to the ones that came with the tech 3 brakes.
ah brill thanks bud, phew should be easy source a pair then for the weekend!
Someone finding it difficult getting the red pads?
oops yep - its cos i didnt realise they use the same pads as the old ones, so no results came up for the new tech 4 e4 - seems they are all the same - but thanks yep those are the ones 🙂
Anyone else struggle to get these lined up perfectly to not rub?
I can’t seem to even in the stand get them to not rub
Sometimes it gets worse on a ride too - the pistons all run smoothly and retract/come out easily but just always a nagging catch n the rotor at some point
Any tips? I’ve used those little metal tools to help align but didn’t help, done it by eye, done it with a torch so I can clearly see the gaps…..
Nope, no issues here.
Mine have a tiny bit of noise when turning the wheel by hand but the wheel is perfectly free spinning and there's minimal deadzone before they bite. When riding there's zero noise.
Make sure you start with no pads in and align the caliper to the disc. If that's not straight you'll never get it right.
I feel your pain oscillatewildly. I've got some tech3 X2 and some tech 4 E4 and found them quite fiddly to align compared to shimano. I've been there for ages with the torch and spacers trying to get them perfectly aligned but there always seemed to be the slightest rub. I was happy they were as straight as could be and just cracked on. The certainly didn't get worse with riding. Better if anything.
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I got one of these recently which does the job for centering the caliper. As long as you've got a straight rotor of course!
You can hear a small amount of contact in the stand with mine. Wheel completely free though, and don't notice it riding.
That has to be the worst product picture I've ever seen! I'm guessing it's a block that fits the width of the caliper opening with a centre slot for the disc?
Yeah. the picture is terrible. But yes, it's just a block with a slot that the disc fits snuggly into. Pretty simple, but does seem to work well. I wasn't far off by eye. but its one of those things I like to know I've got it as good as possible.
I use playing cards in my initial set up. Even number on each side means the caliper itself is exactly centered.
Then tighten. Pulling the lever to center doesnt always work so well(for me at least)
Yeah. the picture is terrible. But yes, it’s just a block with a slot that the disc fits snuggly into. Pretty simple, but does seem to work well. I wasn’t far off by eye. but its one of those things I like to know I’ve got it as good as possible.
Cheers, tbh I need a bleed/travel block anyway so may order one.
Does anyone know where the best price is for these things at the minute? This is the best I can find...startfitness.co.uk/products/hope-tech-4-e4-hydraulic-disc-brakeset
£315 for the pair with a 10% discount code.
Also, is anyone using them with 2mm rotors like the new Galfers? Or are the Hope floating rotors worth the cash? I haven't used them for years because they used to rattle and squeal like hell.
I’m on the Tech 3 V4 but the calipers are the same (bar the new pistons) - I had the Hope floating rotors before but now have the 2.3mm thick steel “ebike” rotors. I gather they’ll fit in the E4 calipers too. They feel as solid in use as they look, I like!
davros
Free Member
I feel your pain oscillatewildly. I’ve got some tech3 X2 and some tech 4 E4 and found them quite fiddly to align compared to shimano. I’ve been there for ages with the torch and spacers trying to get them perfectly aligned but there always seemed to be the slightest rub. I was happy they were as straight as could be and just cracked on. The certainly didn’t get worse with riding. Better if anything.
chrisdw
Free Member
I got one of these recently which does the job for centering the caliper. As long as you’ve got a straight rotor of course!Caliper Alignment Tool for Hope E4, V4 Brakes
You can hear a small amount of contact in the stand with mine. Wheel completely free though, and don’t notice it riding.
sorry forgot to reply to the question i asked
yeah i must admit after really taking my time this time with the torch/metal aligner tool, i did get them running nice yesterday, at no point did i hear them catching nor did they get worse
so this tool from r3pro - how does it work, i genuinely dont usually make this much effort to get them aligned, but i want to now, so ive bought the tool
is it just a case of pushing back pistons, guide rotor/wheel in slot and tightening the bolts? or do you have to squeeze the lever whilst this is in? hopefully will take any guess work out, and then just concentrate on the pads if they are slightly out
i dont know why but suddenly my rear brake howls when its wet/rained on, the front doesnt do it at all with same rotor/pads, ive put new hope pads in the rear and even swapped the rotors around, the front remains silent (so i know the rotors ok) and the back still squeals when wet/rained on....never used to do it and is pretty annoying!
Also, is anyone using them with 2mm rotors like the new Galfers? Or are the Hope floating rotors worth the cash? I haven’t used them for years because they used to rattle and squeal like hell.
I'm using my Tech 4s with 2.3 Intend Massive rotors, slightly less lever throw before contact with the pads. No noticeable rub. Red pads been great all year round, green a little noisy and wore quicker (but to be fair was wet/ sandy so expected that really).
just ref bleeding them - i think mine could do with a full bleed soon, starting to get ever so slightly squishy compared to usual rock solid feel i like
few hope vids make it look fairly easy but a few questions : (i have the hope bleed kit so ready to go)
in the video he bleeds them with the pads in, meaning the pistons are fully out as hes bleeding them, can i just push the pistons fully in and use a bleed block then start the bleed process (dont want to risk contamination of the pads especially as they are new), the rest of it looks fairly straight forward, but unclear of why he starts the bleed with pads out?
You should bleed with the pistons fully retracted or else you'll have too much fluid in the system and won't be able to push the pistons back in fully without removing fluid.
Edit: just watched the video, when he's bleeding with the pads in he's fully opening the bleed port, pulling the lever then closing the port with no pressure on the lever - this means the pistons don't extend out. He then pushes the pistons back in full before removing the bleed kit.
I prefer to bleed with a bit of pressure in the system, so press the lever slightly, open the port a little while retaining pressure then closing the port. The means nothing is drawn back into the caliper and you've got the pressure forcing any air out. Obviously to do it this way you need a bleed block in to stop the pistons from extending out.
Does anyone know where the best price is for these things at the minute? This is the best I can find…startfitness.co.uk/products/hope-tech-4-e4-hydraulic-disc-brakeset
£315 for the pair with a 10% discount code.
That's very tempting, thinking could recoup a good chunk of that selling my T3s. Would need to add another £40 for matchmakers though :-/
