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How do you achieve that hidden cable affair in the top tube?
Thinking about building a Columbus 29er, fillet brazed and all to my spec.
I like a really short wheelbase, a C-T of about 53cm and a TT length more often found on 56cm bikes.
I'm neither an expert or frame builder but, I can answer your question. A brass tube is inserted and brazed in. Ceeway are the UK frame builder suppliers, have a look on their site or email them.
I'll have a word. My mates just bought two tubing sets from them - very nice.
Are you going to build your new frame on a course, like the Yates one?
I'd like to, but there is a two year waiting list!
No, my mate has a jig. Somethings are pretty standard, but it gives me the opportunity to tweek certain aspects.
You really are something else! Hats off!
Cool! put a picture up when you've got a raw (unpainted) frame - like to see that. Please.
Have a look through jay_ntwr's series of "WWTP" threads on the MTBR frame building forum. Pretty sure he did internal routing.
Um, I don't think you have to complicate things; I've got a Klein Attitude and an old Kinesis road frame that simply have holes in the tubing with full outer cable runs through the frame.
That's not such a good idea on steel frames though, where water getting in is more of an issue.
It was just an idea to hide the hydraulic hose on a singlespeed. I'll have to think of something else unique.
Bottom brackets about to be threaded, followed by fitting of the seat tube.
My mates building two first.
It's all very exciting 😐
That's not such a good idea on steel frames though, where water getting in is more of an issue.
And how does the water get in?
Masterclass from Rody of Groovy Cycleworks. Make its look dead easy, he does.
That's how it's done!
They're on Ceeway, 'cable tunnels' I think they call them - in brass of course. I must say, I wouldn't go down that route myself - if you pardon the pun, although it would look cool on a SS!
Bottom brackets cut, threaded and milled. The key stone bas been laid.
i saw a frame on frameforum a year or so ago where a ti tube was inserted into the frame and the hydraulic hose was attached to that - so there was a permanent internal hydro line all the way through and the hose was re-attached to the seat stay.. god knows how many hours went into that frame!
First tube should be done today, pics later. I think I want my cross build to be lugged a singlespeed, based on w Gios Evolution.
Diamond done, all the brazing needs tidying. This is my mates one and the first build, Columbus 29er.
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Rough picture!
Too late for the front triangle, but for the rest of the bike, file your fillets hot; makes the work MUCH easier.
From that photo it looks like the heat's been on the tubing for a long time, what sort of torch is he using?
Cheers top tip. I'll check about the torch, but I know there were issues with the two different wall thicknesses if that makes sense?
Took a while to sort the jig, and he has two framesets to build before I can burn holes in expensive pipework.
And I didn't realise how time consuming the whole thing is, but I'd want to build a lugged frameset that'll be a hole lot easier.
I remember chatting to Dave Yates at a NEMBA race - he mentioned filing them hot (he also mentioned the file could get quite hot and useful to have some spares to swap between 🙂
I'm not really experienced enough regarding the heat - however a lot of the pretty pictures / videos on the internet are using a gas fluxer which leaves the joint much cleaner and tidier. One thing I've never worked out is that some of the videos look a bit on the "cold" side - SIFBronze No.1 melting point is nearly 900C which would need steel to be cherry red.
Do you know what size rods you are using? I've been making practice joint using 1.6mm which is easy to melt but needs a pretty rapid feed rate to build up fillets. I'm considering buying some 2.4mm and wondered if you have any advice.
I'm just at the end of a pile of house jobs - some quality framebuilding time has now been sanctioned (need to have it finished for SSEC in May).
Mick