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Hi all, I have googled this over and over again and cannot find anyone with the same issue. I also think that one of the answers will be "remove the spacer it doesn't matter" but my need to know WHY is strong, and I have done everything by the book so everything should work!
SLX Hollowtech II crankset fitted to a frame with a 68mm BB. I have used two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side and one on the non drive side as per instruction, this set up means that there isn't enough length on the end cap for the thread to reach in and grab, I might have managed to get it onto one thread at one point but the next turn to tweak it just popped it off again. WTF?
a frame with a 68mm BB
a) have you measured it
and
b) bash the drive side end of the axle with a rubber mallet to make sure it's seated.
My guess would be that you haven't pushed the axle fully through the bb.
Is it defo 68mm? Time to get the ruler out.
Serious amounts of bashage has occurred, sometimes just out of sheer frustration. According to the manufacturers data it is indeed 68mm
Is it as hideous to post pictures to this site as it was when I was last a fully paid up member?
for starters, you shouldn't remove the spacers, they are needed otherwise the crankset and axle won't be spaced properly which cause chainline and bearing preload issues.
First thought is that do you have the bolts undone on the non-drive side crank. If they are the crank should just slide over the axle no bother and the end cap is for tensioning. The cap's not needed to actually pull it onto the axle. Are you sure the plastic thing between the bolts to stop it falling off isn't fouling?
Second, when you have the drive side (with the axle) slotted through the bearings, how much axle is proud of the BB on the NDS? should be from memory and guesstimate around 20-25mm. If there isn't - you haven't got the crankset pushed in far enough (gentle taps with a rubber mallet?)
If all else fails - are you SURE it's a 68mm BB? Might sound condescending but......
I know not shimano but about this much.....
Have you measured the BB shell?
Are the ends of the BB shell covered in deep paint?
Is it as hideous to post pictures to this site as it was when I was last a fully paid up member?
No. Just make sure you use the "Insert image" dialog and use the URI of the image itself not the page and it will work.
OP - doesn't matter what the spec sheet says, measure it!
@theotherjonv does that have 4 spacers? Just off to measure the bit hanging out, BRB
According to the manufacturers data it is indeed 68mm
get your ruler out.
edit - and ignore that pic, it's Raceface which works different, was just a rough guesstimate illustration
Shimano
maybe the BB that you've fitted is a road one ? I think they're a tad wider
Are you using Shimano BB cups/bearings?
Have the bearings been replaced with non standard size ones (they can be 1 mm wider).
Are the bearing's plastic "top hats" original or have they been replaced?
"According to the manufacturers data...." - I would measure it to be sure.
Have you got a "reference bike" with which you can check the drive side gap (bearing <-> crank)?
Hang on. Does the end cap thing screw onto the crank arm or spindle on hollowtech? Mines at home so cant check.
If its the crank arm then does that not mean there is something blocking the end cap going in properly (spindle pushed in too far, wee tab thing on crankarm not lifted out of way etc)
If its the spindle then i dunno.
FFS! Just measured the best I can with the BB installed and it looks like it's a 73mm. I am going to murder someone.
spindle. i'd be getting the verniers out and checking its not actually a 73mm shell despite what the datasheet says.
It quite clearly states here that it is 68mm https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRTITFL29/titus-ti-fireline-evo-29er-frame
🙂
According to the manufacturers data it is indeed 68mm
Unfortunately means bugger all, measure it.
Common issues, pinch bolts not slack, drive side crank/spindle not fully seated.
Oh, on-one? always measure - they change frame specs more frequently than the update the website.
ah...on one. With their tolerances its probably 70/71mm 😁
Who guessed?
https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRTITFL29/titus-ti-fireline-evo-29er-frame/blockquote >
Oh lord, you've done it now!!!! As we speak the pitchforks are being lit.
@andyd, HT II screws into the spindle to preload the arm, you then tighten the pinch bolts to hold it on. You don't then need the plastic cap to hold it together (racer's weight saving tip there)
^^of course it does, srupid me. the crank arm has groves in it to grip the spindle, not the end cap threads
I’ll get that fixed. Sorry.
Hi Brant, so is it 73mm? If it is I am going to be both thankful and momentarily pi$$ed off for losing a week of riding and a whole £5 on the purchase of a new end cap that wasn't needed
you got this far without thinking to measure it?
"racer’s weight saving tip there"
Have you tried this top tip or is it simply theoretical in your mind.
Okay, I hold my hands up to that one Jam bo, I stupidly believed the tech spec and was convinced it was me being an idiot with mechanics as is usually the case
If I was in America I am sure a lawyer would take on my case against On One, for the emotional trauma I feel for being made to look such a fool 🙂
we've all done it. just not so publicly...
Last time I did this was with a RF Cinch 30mm BB and I misread the diagram - I didn’t clock that one side always had a spacer and that the spacer on the other side was optional.
As above, everyone has at least one similar failure to their name...
indeed , one of us famously put our forks in upside down and then posted a picture.....
lucky for him i cant find the photo right now...... 😉
To add insult to injury I used the live chat function on the On One website in parallel to posting on here. Richard the expert guaranteed me the BB shell was 68mm, brilliant!
“racer’s weight saving tip there”
Have you tried this top tip or is it simply theoretical in your mind.
It's alongside removing valve caps and valve stem locknuts in the save weight for no money file 😉
My personal favourite harks back to the days of magnetic sensor speed computers. That extra weight on one side of the wheel means that at any point in the rotation you're either expending energy to rotate extra weight up, or getting it back as it rotates down - so while it is theoretically energy neutral it unbalances the wheel rotation, which in turn affects pedalling efficiency, fatigue and ultimately performance.
By fitting a second identical magnet diametrically opposite the first, you rebalance the effect. You might be incredulous that such a small change would make a difference, but my recorded speeds doubled overnight.
thought as much .,
You lot are never going to believe this. I put one spacer on and it all works perfectly, whinwouod have thought.........thank you all for proving both my stupidity, and pushing me to check despite the spec.
Just hold the grudge for another 9 years and I'm sure Brant will refund you the £5
as promised to make you feel better... 😀
[img] http://www.flickr.com/photos/53860438@N06/6192650687 [/img]
I've been in the numpty BB installation camp too! Decided to replace my SRAM GXP BB with a Shimano HT one figuring it would last longer than the SRAM 'made of cheese' original. Ordered the XT BB (cheaper than the road equivalent Ultegra), popped it all in & tightened it up only to find the crank was locked solid! Only at that point did it occur to me to Google whether road cranks/BB's have different spacing/thickness to MTB ones ... 🤔🙄😳
If they were still insisting on it being 68mm then that's not good.
Bravo Dickyboy! 🤣
Wawas yeah, and then it all went quiet on the chat.
Update: Just had a look on the Planet X website, the spec now states 73mm BB. So despite me looking like an idiot for not measuring it, we have all saved other the humiliation 🙂 Job well done!