Think my front end is too low! Hence the neck pain so this could be a viable option
Specialized Hover alloy on one bike, Controltech CLS on another, both to compensate for low stack frames.
I think the Specialized are the nicer bars, the Controltechs seem quite harsh.
No, but I use a positive rise stem to accomplish the same thing. Much cheaper and easier than a new set of bar and messing about with new bar tape.
Yep. New bike had a shorter head tube than anticipated. Fitted some Level riser bars and got the position I was after without an ugly upward sloping stem.
High rise, drop bars 🤔
Redshift Topshelf user here. Love ‘em
Ritchey WCS Ergomax. Available in various alloy and carbon options. Lovely shape to them.
'Shallow drop' drop bars rather than calling them high rise?
Ritchey Beacon XLs here, 80mm drop and 65mm reach. I use them combined with a Specialized Comp Multi stem to add decent stack height on my Cascade front end - that stem allows different degrees of rise so you can play around with bar heights a bit.
Ritchey Corralitos another option with even less drop and less reach.
without an ugly upward sloping stem
Of course, downward sloping stems really are form over function, requiring more spacers for a given bar height (unless you're already slammed in which case fair play) thus adding weight* and stress on your steerer for... what exactly?
*yeah I know, virtually none, but still.
I have a Hover bar on my road bike which, along with a shorter stem has improved it no end. Also a Hover gravel bar on the gravel bike which is fine.
Another vote for Ritchey WCS Ergomax here (the non-WCS version isn't much heavier either, I've had both)
Just. Flip. Your. Stem. Pretty common on track bikes these days, including one of mine. And add shallow drop bars if you must
I've got 50cm Controltech bars. Can't speak for any harshness as I've got a Redshift stem to iron out bumps. Neck pain did seem to be the result of bars being to low for me. Stem is at the top of the steerer and the bars are angled slightly up as well.
stem is already flipped, not seeing how shallow drops helps on the tops/hoods??
Cinelli Pista track stem comes in lengths up to 120 mm. That'll give you some serious rise whilst retaining reach. My spare track bike has a classic sprinter drop bar of 11 cm reach and 17 cm drop (yes that much) so I had to flip the stem to be able to reach the drops! The Pista stem has even more angle than typical so is a nice cheap option before going down the route of new bars. There are some cheap adjustable long stems too on Amazon for about the same price, but they are very flexy and I would not ride one off road.
https://www.chickencyclekit.co.uk/shop/stems/cinelli-pista-stem/
stem is already flipped, not seeing how shallow drops helps on the tops/hoods??
I think a pic of the bike would help. If your stem is already flipped and you need to go even higher, something's up somewhere...
stem is already flipped, not seeing how shallow drops helps on the tops/hoods??
I think a pic of the bike would help. If your stem is already flipped and you need to go even higher, something's up somewhere...
.. could be. Needing a higher front end is often because of a saddle that's too high and/or angled down, an effective seat angle that's too steep or saddle set too far fwd. Make sure the saddle is in the right place before adjusting bars. If it is .. go for the riser drops.
I got the Specialized Hovers on my gravel bike and they work a treat to give some extra stack across all the hand positions, the drops are also quite shallow. Would recommend.
(Already got flipped stem, maximum number of spacers, riding a 63cm frame which is still too low for my lanky 6'6" body)
I think a pic of the bike would help. If your stem is already flipped and you need to go even higher, something's up somewhere...
I don't think it's that unusual to be honest, I've found myself at the upper end of the stock handlebar adjustment on most bikes I buy, and I actually prefer flipped stems and riser bars to massive chimney stacks of spacers (which again, I think is the mechanically least favourable solution for bar height).
I use them and really like them. I'm getting older and don't like the head down, bum in the air position that I used to put up with. My gravel bike has Ribble flared ones which are fine but the drops flare ouwards so that the bit you hold is no longer parallel to the bike which I'm not keen on. I also have two different Specialized Hover bars. The standard road bars are great. I like the flattened tops which seem more comfortable. I also have the gravel version too.
^ most bikes have stacks that are too low imo, especially larger sizes. Aesthetics over fit. My last custom gravel bike has a 195mm HT and external cups and looks ok proportionally, means I can ride in the drops most of the time (I'm 6', generally on a 58-59cm road bike with a 120mm stem and ~90-95mm bar drop, not too inflexible in terms of road bike fit).
I've had a Deda adjustable stem on my Cube Attain GTC Disc for 3+ years for the opposite reason, to lower my bars and make me/bike less of an aero brick when my old lower back injury isn't playing up...
https://dedaelementi.com/adj-adjustable-stem
Absolutely rock solid, I've been using -30 degrees on a ~11cm variant, as the frame stack of my "58cm" Cube is 610mm (was great at time of purchase when my back was more of a permanent issue). This lowers the bars by ~4.5cm iirc and gives an effective stack of a reasonably racey road bike, when the stem is under all spacers (not cutting steerer as my back does play up from time to time).
In a rising setup, it can go to +40 degrees.
Just reminded me of the oldie but goodie stem comparison tool...
Redshift top shelf bars work well for this
Those Redshift bars look stiff. My Jones loops and some other bars I have with a towel rail are both a comfy position but they're similarly stiff.
Already got flipped stem, maximum number of spacers...
Velobike Longboi stemgoes up to 200 mm stem. You have a long way to go 😉
It's absolutely a problem on supposedly XL frames if you're tall. I just run a higher rise stem - the BBB one is solid and not silly money.
Already got flipped stem, maximum number of spacers...
Velobike Longboi stemgoes up to 200 mm stem. You have a long way to go 😉
It's too low, not too short! Although I guess flipping a 16 degree 200mm stem would buy me a bit of height
**tries to remember SOHCAHTOA**
Just. Flip. Your. Stem. Pretty common on track bikes these days,
+1
Weirdly it was when I started riding track that I saw people doing it (outside of audax/ctc types). I tried it and went faster! Getting forearms flat consistently is a bigger aero win than a really low tuck you can only hold for a minute before having to straighten your arms.
'Shallow drop' drop bars rather than calling them high rise?
Shallow drop bars only work if you have tiny hands or never use the drops. Which to be fair may be the majority of people the majority of the time on modern bikes where the hoods are the designed default position (and most aero as a result) so there's no need.
Again, track bars tend to be far deeper than road bars so the upright stem makes them a bit more normal.
downward sloping stems really are form over function, requiring more spacers for a given bar height (unless you're already slammed in which case fair play) thus adding weight* and stress on your steerer for... what exactly?
I suspect that of all the possible permutations for adding rise, a long steerer and a flat stem are probably the most aero. Especially on modern bikes with shrouds around the steerer spacers. Marginal benefit, but probably a couple of watts.
**tries to remember SOHCAHTOA**
For small angles just assume 1 degree is 1 in 60, so on a normal 8deg and 110mm stem it's roughly 30mm, which is a lot in terms of spacers!
So the large topstone feels comfortable for me, but my XL substance doesn't. The topstone is 25mm higher in stack height. I cannot go any higher on mine without a high rise stem or riser drops unless I'm missing something
If your stem is already flipped and you need to go even higher, something's up somewhere...
I think the OP being a lanky get is the 'something up', guessing a good bike fitting session would help.
I'm not as tall as the OP, but have long legs/short torso - I'm 100% a large in every MTB I ever own, but everything told me to go for a medium Boardman gravel. I went medium and glad I did - with a flipped stem it's pretty spot on. A large would have been too stretched. Have you gone with your normal size bike @bikerevivesheffield?
*edit - just seen your latest post....
I'm not as tall as the OP, but have long legs/short torso - I'm 100% a large in every MTB I ever own, but everything told me to go for a medium Boardman gravel. I went medium and glad I did - with a flipped stem it's pretty spot on.
You're lucky, I'm 6ft but wear short trousers 😂, I went to buy some motorcycle jeans and the knee pads were mid shin 😭
I end up with large fames with unfashionably long stems and short droppers. On road bikes I can barely get the logo on the seat post to be visible!
<!-- Font Awesome fontawesome.com --> It's too low, not too short! Although I guess flipping a 16 degree 200mm stem would buy me a bit of height
**tries to remember SOHCAHTOA**
exactly this. My club mate has to do the same on XL frames. He's 6'6". Nothing fits.
I need a topstone or Camino I reckon in large
I have ergomax bars, the extra height is useful. I couldn't face flipping my stem so I got a zero rise Thomson stem, because of the head angle it does rise slightly but without looking like it's upside down
It feels like it's something that'll be sold largely off the back of 'fashion' to solve a problem created by hidden cables and proprietary stems.
So the large topstone feels comfortable for me, but my XL substance doesn't. The topstone is 25mm higher in stack height. I cannot go any higher on mine without a high rise stem or riser drops unless I'm missing something
The Topstone frame is 15mm higher stack according to your table (595 vs 610).
Presuming same bar dimensions; 30mm spacers under stem on both bikes; stem 110mm +6 degree on Topstone...
Had a play around - lowered seat 5mm, made it level (was tipping forward before some how). Played with bar height and reckon I need 5-10mm max BUT my brake hoses would be super tight!!!
When I get time I'll sort by ordering one of the adjustable spesh stems and sort the hose length
I kid you not. I've got this bad boy on my gravel bike 😂
😮 that is something a blind man would be pleased to see
Think my front end is too low! Hence the neck pain so this could be a viable option
I've got "riser" drop bars on my Airborne Torch in attempt to counter the aggressive race stance it puts me in. I can't remember which make or how much the rise is, it's not much, and I'm not sure how much it has contributed to the less shoulder pain that I now seem to get on long rides, I tend to put that down to more yoga.
Maybe the answer is as simple as turning a pair of drop bars upside down.
Worked for Graeme Obree...
595mm of stack on xl gravel frame is rubbish. Well it wouldn’t fit me. On my Arkose I’ve got the stock 90mm stem flipped and loads of spacers. The Arkose has 632mm of stack. I have so many spacers it’s a steel not carbon fork.
The Rambler has a 70mm 35 degree stem. I don’t think it’d want a stem that short on the Arkose. The steering would be too far for me
A steerer extender is another option. Before i bought red shift bars I’d check Rob Hayles can’t extend the steerer for less
I use Ritchey Corralito's which are only a small rise (15mm) but also sweep back slightly so they shorten the reach (52mm compared to ~70+ on most drop bars) at the same time which again helps me be less stretched out. Only about £40 too for the aluminium ones so minimal cost/faff to try out.
Surly truck stop bars on the gravel bike. Can recommend
Surly truck stop bars on the gravel bike. Can recommend
I have taken the plunge and bought one of those Specialized adjustable stems with shims. Went for the 90mm 24 degree stem and have used the 4 degree shim.
This has given me 31mm more height and 12mm more reach. The reasoning for going for the 28 degree rise initially is that is the most extreme and consequently the longest taht the hoses need to be and whilst in the process i had to increase hose length so went with the longest to start with, i can then if need be, lower the rise etc without having to mess with fitting more hose and bleeding the brakes again. I will have a ride and see how it fairs, when i'm comfy with the lever postition and bar position i'll do the bar tape 🙂
Not sure if the comparison comes with the link
