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For quite some time I've been wanting to work with alloy and steel rods to fabricate some components/tooling, after having spoken to some local fabricators or engineering companies and been given qoutes for the work that are crap/turd x retarded = returded.
I've decided to buy my own lathe/milling machine as well as a bench saw and extraction equipment, I've worked with some lathes in the past, mostly wood turning, however I'm not without some experience.
That said I don't know much about metal working, can anyone tell me the best kind of saw for cutting steel and alloy rods and tubes accurately, also will an emco unimat SL or 3/4 be enough for machining up small alloy and steel components about 10 to 30mm lenth 10 to 40mm diameter.
Not sure if anyone can help with advice but I might as well ask.
😀
I've been trained in use of lathes but it doesn't appear that you have a question that relates to that.
Have a look at the Axminster power tools range of lathes, be aware a metal working lathe is more powerful than a wood working one and will easily cause a lot more damage.
Dont forget the turning tools micrometers and verniers etc.
You dont need extraction equipmnet for metal lathes as they dont make a dust.
find a good engineering company. it will be better off in the long run. i've just had some work done for about the price i can by the bar stock for.
We use a couple of local companies (hampshire) and they couldn't be more helpful
I have [url= http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cl300m-metal-lathe ]one of these [/url] and [url= http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cmd10-micro-milling-drilling-machine ]one of these.[/url]
I use them for the kind of stuff you describe.
why a bench saw to cut alloy/steel rods, would you not hacks aw it to length and then machine it?
why a bench saw to cut alloy/steel rods, would you not hacks aw it to length and then machine it?
That's what I do.
It's not much fun though.
Have a look here for used tools.
[url= http://www.pennyfarthingtools.co.uk/new-metalwork.htm ]http://www.pennyfarthingtools.co.uk/new-metalwork.htm[/url]
They tend to be better quality. Its a good shop for measuring tools and cutting bits, too
Hey Al, if you want to come over and much about with my lathe once I have it, that's cool. I have also used lathes, I was a high speed wood turner and used automated and manual lathes. However I have a lot to learn and any help will be much appreciated 😀
That said I'm not an expert but I am looking forwards to getting some new tooling 😀 .
5thElefant, yeah that's what I'm talking about, however I just bought a new frame and cranks and a few other bits and pieces, so I was going to buy something used or from ebay like this
Will an emco unimat 3 or 4 be able to cope with the work I want to do?
cruzheckler - Member
why a bench saw to cut alloy/steel rods, would you not hacks aw it to length and then machine it?
A hack saw would be too time consuming, If I'm manufacturing a whole range of tooling and other odds and ends I need something that will cut accurately but not take up too much time.
Can anyone advise on the best kind of saw to use?
what tools are you looking at making? presume shock bushing, bearing presses and the like?
Racing ralph that is exactly what I would like to be able to make, any advice ❓
I was going to simply involve a fabricators however after having been quoted £4.88 + vat and £5.40 + vat for what amounts to 2 holes being drilled and cutting to length and finishing, I would rather buy the tools and do the work myself.
To be honest after having thought about owning my own lathe and cnc machine in time, I have my heart set on it, but I really don't have much spare time and want to get the right equipment first time rather than after a few attempts.
There's a member on here may be able to advise, his tag is "Johnny No Hands"
shock bushing tool is a piece of piss
I have an Uncle who used to make WW2 planes (protected industry!) to do my "black ops" work - he's got a Milford lathe thats a work of art. One day before he gets to 100 I must learn how to do stuff on it. Beats stripping and cleaning bikes for a garage hobby...
I think all the tools I will be making are easy to do 😀
I've got a Unimat SL, it's lovely but it's basically a toy lathe. It'd be capable of what you describe but the jaw capacity's limited (unless you get the bed raiser, which decreases the accuracy and disables the tail guide) and it's very low on power which means lots of very thin passes when working with steel. All means very slow work.
I like it but then I only use it about 3 or 4 times a year and usually to correct existing pieces rather than to make something new. If I wanted to do any serious work, I'd replace it. The Machine Mart ones (also available under various other brands, sometimes for a fair bit less) look a good option.
Thanks northwind!
Finally got that ****ing picture to work!
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Just got this in yesterday, my new [s]toy[/s] I mean tool/equipment. Now all I have to do is learn how to work the thing and I should be able to create some interesting shit!
You bought that then? Looks good to my totally uneducated eye 🙂
It's not a bad little lathe, perfect for my workshop, which is already stuffed with all sorts of tooling, bearings, bolts, prototype designs and other stuff!
Is that the one you can bolt the vertical mill to?
Hey northwind, I have no idea, but I do love this little bit of equipment, I only paid £335 including the shipping and it hasn't seen much use at all.
I also have some titanium rods that I would like to drill out any advice of the best way to do that?
you will need a ****ing sharp drill bit
Got my lathe and I bought some drill bits and other tools in bulk, a lot of the drill bits are threaded, how do I fit them to the lathe ❓
Can I simply lock them into my normal chuck?
Really enjoying the lathe, can't wait to see what I can make with it 😀
I'm impressed if you have that in your flat!
😀
Threaded bits will be designed for mounting in a specific collet. Should be fine mounded in a chuck, especially in a lathe where they aren't spinning. Best to hold them well past the thread and onto the shaft if you can.