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Just done a strip down, seal replacement, and oil refresh on my 2009 Rebas. The forks feel smooth in operation, so I'm happy with that.
But the remote lockout still won't work. As a test, I've taken the cable off, removed the cable lock reel from the top of the lock mechanism, and tested it by turning the lock by fitting the flats of a spanner and rotating.
It will travel through about 180 degrees, happily enough, but there's no appreciable difference in it locking out. Its just as bouncy as ever.
The inner mechanism for the lock out (or compression damper) seemed to work OK when I had it out on the bench. Again, I could turn the external part (the bit I was moving above) which was retarded by a spring, and this opened and closed a metal valve at the bottom. So, at first glance, it all looked good to me.
Puzzled as to what to try next. I had injected about 15 mls of fresh fork-oil prior to pushing the valve up through the holes on the lowers, so there should be enough oil. But from what I read, its oil in this mechanism that does the work. Does the oil travel up past the rebound seal, into the compression damper? It seemed a really tight seal.
How does the lockout work anyway? Its slightly puzzling 🙂
have you turned the floodgate knob to the opposite lock ?
Err...no.
Also: I'm way, way, way short of oil:
well that little silver knob on the top when turned adjusts the amount of force it locks out with. from not at all to almost rock hard lock out.
I suggest you try turning that to the opposite direction of what it is set at now and see if that sorts it.
WIll do. I'm going to have to put in about 100mls of oil as well, as I misunderstood the instructions!
Thanks-
It'll be lack of oil, you get the same effect when the damping oil leaks into the lowers.
Reckon so- thanks SJ. And XCR-
Thanks for all the advice. Forks are now working a treat!