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[u]The Crux[/u]
I need to flip the brake hoses on XT M8000 brakes, I've only ever used brake cables so don't have a clue what tools I need or how to do this?
I think I need to fit a chain retainer, It'd running Eagle drivechain and wolftooth oval 32T chainring. Is fitment pretty much universal?
I probably also need to kit myself out with a shock pump for fox front/rear shocks, don't know what I am looking for.
[u]The Background[/u]
Sold my 20yr old MTB a while ago because somebody offered a tempting amount of cash for it, I'd literally kept/used it so for long that it'd become a collector's item.
Since then I've miss MTBiking more than I realized, so started looking for a replacement in classifieds. Spotted a 2017 Pivot Switchblade, far above my original budget but has lots of stuff I really like (e.g. Onyx Sprag clutch hub) paid a deposit, pick it up next week.
Then I realized the only MTB/DH race of the year here in Singapore is next weekend so entered them.
Now I realize that I have no clue how all the new stuff on these MTBikes work. I have a short time window to prepare the bike for the race next weekend and I have very little time to prepare or research stuff, so appreciate any advice.
Oh and yes it might be sensible to take to a shop but I've always done my own work on my bike and racing a bike somebody else has worked on doesn't sit well with me.
Racing a course I have never done before after no MTBiking for a year is probably going to be an amusing disaster 🙂
Youtube is your friend.
You *CAN* swap brake hoses withotu thn needing to bleed them and I've managed it, but I'd strongly recommend having the kit to bleed them just in case a bit of air gets into the sytem during the swap. And you'll need to bleed them evntually!
Park and Epic Bleed Solutions have a guide to cable shortening, swapping is just shortening with the cutting. You'll need a new olive for each lever as they get crushed on installation, and probably more mineral oil.
Eagle plus clutch plus narrow/wide should be okay without a retainer unless you're riding really rough courses, so look at your chain length first (and check the clutch is on...).
Shock pump, anything will do as they're all the same.
Thanks, I put in an order for stuff which will hopefully arrive in time.
You would have got bonus points for reminding me I now need 29" inner tubes, I forgot about those 😆
Simple answer...
Find a good bike shop that will let you watch, they will have all the right kit and you shouldn't need to flip brakes that often as you can just order the right ones 😉
When in there ask them what mounts your frame has for a chain guide - why do you need one by the way? Is it for a gravity bike and somewhere rough because a good N/W works really well. Fitting is always different and you need to knoiw what you have.
Shock Pump - buy when you are in the bike shop.
(and check the clutch is on...).
It's SRAM the clutch is always on.
Bought a second hand bike, sight unseen I assume, after not riding for a while and entered a DH race with a couple of days to get it working correctly.
Sir I salute you.
Not going to set it up tubeless as well? 😆You would have got bonus points for reminding me I now need 29" inner tubes,
Switching the brake lines ended up being easy I did it before riding the bike home.
Now I can't touch the bike until Sunday as with the +1 N->S
I am aware of tubeless but thought carrying a tube was good in case of puncture, maybe it is overkill anyway. I did order some tyres, stans sealant, shock pump and a one-up chain/bash guard which the seller told me will foul on the chainstay so I will have to cut it or something.
I'd try it without the guide if it's going to be a pain.
As for tubes and racing...
Depends if you are racing racing 😉 Chaning to a tube will mean your out the back so no point or it means you finish the day. I normally go with 2x CO2 and 1 tube so I have 1 shot at re inflating the tubeless with the CO2 and then one shot on the tube.
You will probably need some tape for the rims also to do the tubeless conversion.
I'm in Singapore at the moment Twisty, can help if you need?
Yes in the past I've raced carrying a tube and pump/Co2, although I've just checked the XC race details and it is 13km so hardly any point repairing a puncture, the race last year was twice as long.
Thanks LeeW, I should be fine as long as my CRC order arrives in time and I persuade a grab driver to take me there. Perhaps we could meet up for a ride some time though.
For the cables you need a 8mm open spanner (or adjustable) from memory to unscrew the retainer for the Olive and a 7mm for the bleed on the calliper (if needed after). The bleed on the lever is a 2.5mm hex... (it can be worth cleaning inside the hex first as mud tends to get in and then you risk rounding the hex bolt if its too tight)
Follow the YouTube 😀 ... you might get away without a full bleed and just need to top up the oil...
I don't know what prices you might be paying in Singapore, I often find its worth buying a new hose at least once with the Olive, spiky bit goes inside and the cable clamps that you hold the cable in a vice/molegrips etc. to hammer it in. (You also get a spare banjo where it attaches to the calliper and seals) I usually make sure I have a rear hose kit spare... that way I can do front or back.
Found his while checking the 8mm....
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/shorten-shimano-hoses-without-bleeding/
I wouldn't have thought you'd need any chain devices TBH